Within the last two months I have made the following purchases.
2 80% ar lowers $80 each
10 plastic 30rd Ar mags $6.30 each
10 aluminum 30rd AR mags $7 each
2 AR barrels $99 each
2 stripped AR uppers $49 each
1 80%AK lower $20
other assorted parts
Just need to put them together
So has anyone got plans for the other AK parts so I can make them myself
PS bolt together AR lowers have a material cost of about 7-8 dollars apiece. I priced the material using blueprints.
Now that I am thinking on this thread, I wonder if it might work to use an Aluminium Rear trunnion block. Maybe if you used rivets all the way through, and dimpled the rivet holes using swell neck rivets like an AK uses on the front trunnion.....
Any of you smarter than me types have an opinion?
Imagine whirled peas
Peace, Love, And Superior Firepower
LOLLet's just do a group buy on one of them there 3-D printers.. Heh....Heh
Oh.........The HUMANITY!!!!! Oh My!!
The only time I got to handle and examine a AR180 was a couple years ago at a local shop, it was a Saturday night close to closing and I looked it over and fondled it for almost an hour. I didn't know a thing about them so I came home and did some internet searching, and decided I was going back Monday morning and putting it on lay-away, well I called into work to let them know I was going to be an hour late and went to the shop, got there 20 minutes after they opened and was told "it was sold first thing this morning". AAAAAAHHHHHH I was pissed the rest of the day
OK back to the subject
Wrench I remember the cutting board one, and Will & Bellson I think your thinking the same idea I was thinking of. Make a few pieces out of aluminum for the front, mid and rear of the receiver and some sheet metal for the sides, the sides can be riveted or screwed to these center sections.
Now I was thinking this would be something to use with an AR upper, but after looking at those detailed pics of the 180 (internals mainly) I'm liking that design even more.
Bellson your idea to have side plates with reinforcing areas is good, but I was thinking a little more simple, like just using plan flat plates and find a thickness that will be stiff enough to prevent flex.
Will I'm no expert with it, but I got a CAD program that has a sheet metal function that allows you to bend sheet into 3D objects, I'll see if I can get some idea how to use it.if anybody has the software or the drafting skills, I would be more that willing to provide all the actual dimensions to see if we could reverse engineer this puppy
Wonder how hard it would be to use an AR barrel? I think it would be easier to got one of these then a 180 barrel.
Hmmm this sounds like something worth looking into more
"Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan
with ak style bent lower sections going for $26 they might be worth looking at--maybe the ides of an ar-ak crossbreed wouldn't be so far fetched???
There's a thread on WG about making an easy sheet metal lower also right now. I think that the two easiest ways are the sideplates with spacers idea or the magwell box with a "U" channel (made from 7/8"x1.5" or heavier walled 1"x1.5" rectange tube) for the trigger group area. Either way will work. There was a aluminum sideplate build here a while back by ???? TRX or joezx10r maybe??? with a fixed buffer tube so no fancy threading is necessary. There is also a member over on WG that does lazer flats, so perhaps thats the easiest way for most to get into this type of build. You can drop some of the amenities like the bolt hold open, detent type takedown pins, removable trigger guard, threaded buffer tower, right hand side mag latch ect.. and have a much simpler lower that can be built by just about anyone. Of course those with the skills or wants could add more of the original features back on as they see fit.
Heres what I did with the buffer mount. Buffer tube not threaded just snug slip fit with welded on tab for flat head bolt threaded into buffer mount.
It sucks to have CRS...Nice build joezx10r!
Thanks I like it and it gets shot alot with no problems with bolts backing out. The outer flats and buffer mount is SS and the inside spacer blocks are alum. Buffer tube is mild steel cuase I couldnt find and SS tube at work. Ive wanted to get stainless screws and tig them in and machine it all smooth but havent found the time.