say what you mean & mean what you say
YES, i work for TEC Tactical.. 07/02 SOT
that K-Phos might be something call Phos-Coat that i have used and liked.
the metal needs to be rusted and then lightly cleaned before applying the Phos-Coat because the chem changes the ferric oxide into a phosphate .
usually got a nice dull black finish which is what i wanted .
never polished the metal dont know how well rust will polish lol .
but the finish was very tough .
I built a park tank out of 6" stainless pipe I came across. I cut it in half lengthwise and then jb welded flat 1/8" sheet on each end. Haven't used it yet and am wondering if the jb weld will hold. I put 1/2 inch copper pipe under it with holes drilled for propane flames but the propane didn't distribute well so now I am going to use an electric heating element. I was wondering if you can submerge that (only the glowing part) or will it shock me. Maybe I will just put it touching the bottom of the pipe.
Armadillo, I wouldn't give up on propane as a heat source. You might try a larger pipe than 1/2" copper. I used 3/4" black gas pipe and its been working fine for around 10 years now. Just make sure its getting enough air sucked in with the propane so that it burns well. I'd be leary about using any electric heating element, even one for a hot water heater, but thats me I hate electrictal stuff. As far as the jb weld holding up, I'd put a couple "L" type brackets on each end just in case the jb weld fails the park solution doesn't dump out all together. It just has to be good enough for almost boiling water.
I use two SS drywall mud pans welded together, works great.
Ive used an end of a scrap piece of box beam with the ends welded up for large stuff. Ive used a piece of pipe held vertically for super long and fat barrels. Ive used stainless bowels frowm walmart for smaller pieces, ive used old surplus ammo boxes, now ive built tanks from the local fab shop. The shop here doesnot charge very much to cut out the pieces if i weld the seams.