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FAL assembly?

3K views 12 replies 8 participants last post by  oprod 
#1 ·
Is there a tutorial here on GUNCO? I can't find one.
I traded for a receiver with timed barrel installed. Now I need to know the rest.
Do I HAVE to go to the FILES?:frown:
 
#2 ·
If you've got the barrel in and timed, you've got the worst part done. The next critical step is finding the correct locking shoulder. Once that's done, the rest is simple mechanical assembly. I put mine together just using the exploded parts diagrams and common sense. It's really pretty easy.

Except putting in the snake-like extra-long buffer spring. That was a bit tricky without the "special tool". But it can be done.
 
#3 ·
I have 3 other R1 kits. I have to learn about the locking shoulder & see if I have one that fits. Plus the 922r parts I'll get ordered this week.
 
#5 ·
Bradrock,

FALs are among the easiest to build. You will need a set of pin gages from roughly .257 to around .268. I bought mine from enco Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies but you can get them from any industrial supply house. They are not very expensive (a set of the sizes listed cost me about $30 shipped) Their part numbers are 490-2560 through 490-2680

You simply put your go gage in, put a pin gage in where your locking shoulder would go and find out which is the smallest size pin gage the bolt will close on. That is the size locking shoulder you need. Some folks like to go one size smaller, (increases the HS by .001)
Install the LS and re-check the HS with both your go and no-go. Most will HS with around a .262 LS (although the last one I did needed a .257)
 
#6 ·
Thank you sir; I see Gunparts guy has an assortment of locking shoulders for $8,500.00
I'll need to do better. I'll get some guages ordered today.

The only work I guess will be refinishing metal & carving new wood stock parts.

And using this Century receiver as a guide on the Century casting I have.
 
#8 ·
Thank you sir; I see Gunparts guy has an assortment of locking shoulders for $8,500.00
That must be quite an assortment LOL.
They run about $25 ea. from a dealer, a little less on a private sale. You might get lucky and be able to use the one that came with your kit or be able to swap it with someone. I've got a .261 (I think, I'd have to double check) that I would be willing to part with, if it turns out that's what you need.
 
#9 ·
Thanks! I'm stumped. What is the " DSA" MD? Md? MD?md? I need more coffee I guess.
I need to get this assembled ,to see if I want to keep the other R1 kits I have.

Are the H, T, S, combos that Gunpartsguy sells not very good?
 
#10 ·
You can make the buttstock/recoil spring pretty easy out of some 3/4"round bar stock with a hole drilled in it for a cleaning rod section and one end shaped like a big screwdriver. I used a century compliance kit for my first build. I had no issues with the piston, pistol grip, or charging handle. The hammer trigger and sear should only be advertized as roughed out and will require much fitting. Mine wouldn't even fit together as it came from century.
 
#11 ·
If you try to do the spring without the "special tool", be very careful. That damn thing bites and its fast too!!!!
I've built 2 FAL's and they are great "battle rifles". Lots of meat!!!
But, like an AR, they get boring when you get down to the "assembly" part of the build. Just plain ole common sense!
Slso, they will get your attention when you pay to feed those things. 308 is getting mighty expensive!
Buttttttttttttt.
Have fun!!!
Bill
:woot::woot::woot:
 
#12 ·
When setting your headspace make sure to remove the extractor from the bolt. Then find the pin size that you can close the bolt on with light "two finger" pressure. Take that pin size subtract .002" to get to nominal headspace, then add .001" for setback and you will have the size for the locking shoulder you need.
 
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