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Thread: Can a Man build his own Can?

  1. #11
    Gunco Veteran Viper Dude's Avatar
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    Does an integral barrel - suppressor less than 16 inches OAL require TWO tax stamps from BATF ???

    VD

  2. #12
    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    If the combo is less than 16", then the rifle is considered an SBR and must have a separate registration and tax from the suppressor.

  3. #13
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    You could always make a can on the barrel, kind of like the 5.5" flash hiders for 11" barrel ARs, but bigger diameter, so the supressor fits inside it.

  4. #14
    Cuerno de Chivo chipmechanic's Avatar
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    I own several both store bought and home built. Good fun and worth it as far as I am concerned. For a .22 though on a rifle your'e just about better off buying one and permanently attaching it . Thompson machine in Florida has a line of $99 silencers with annodized K baffles that are practically begging to be pinned and welded onto the end of a short barrel to make it a 16 OAL barrel. Thats what I am doing with my GSG-5 P. I had him make me an 1 1/4" OD 9 inch long silencer for my GSG-5P that will bring the OAL to 16 inches and save me a lot of hassle for not a lot of of money. For the custom can it was $145!!!!

  5. #15
    Gunco Regular bsouthnow's Avatar
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    I received my approved BATF form 1 about a month ago after a 5.5 month wait! I haven't started my AR 300 Whisper build yet, but it's on the agenda as a winter project. I have all the parts including a virgin barrel and stainless for the monolythic core!
    As for the application, make sure that you fill in the caliber and the length even though it doesn' make sense. They put a hold on my application because I n/a'd those entries. It only held up my approval by a couple of weeks or so thay say!
    Good luck and happy shooting! beeeeeeverrryquiet!
    Bill
    Bill from Spartanburg

    Be like an old dog!!!! If you can't eat it or screw it, just piss on it and walk away!!!!

  6. #16
    Gunco Member dinger's Avatar
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    On the subject of silencers/ suppressors, here in the UK its easy to get one to fit any rifle, all part of the Health and safety laws, I looked into one for an AR-15 I would just unscrew the flash suppressor and screw it on, only thing is they are about $800-$1000. Being a very good machinest I decided to make one myself, commercial one's are alloy!! and when I tried it, I did make a good job so no problems with the machineing work done,I found it worked well with .22lr conversion in my rifle, I then tried it with .223 blanks to be safe, after a few shots which were quiet it then started to collapse the baffels. Is normal alloy too soft, does it need to be anodised or should I have used stainless for the baffels? or could it be that I used blanks and not live rounds? this put me off trying with live rounds!!!! Any thoughts?

  7. #17
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    I would use steel for the baffles, and at least 1/8" wall thickness with the aluminum "can".

  8. #18
    Gunco Regular bsouthnow's Avatar
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    I'm planning on using stainless for my .300 whisper baffel. Aluminum kinda erodes fairly fast with the larger loads.
    Bill
    Bill from Spartanburg

    Be like an old dog!!!! If you can't eat it or screw it, just piss on it and walk away!!!!

  9. #19
    Red Jacket Firearms's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dinger View Post
    On the subject of silencers/ suppressors, here in the UK its easy to get one to fit any rifle, all part of the Health and safety laws, I looked into one for an AR-15 I would just unscrew the flash suppressor and screw it on, only thing is they are about $800-$1000. Being a very good machinest I decided to make one myself, commercial one's are alloy!! and when I tried it, I did make a good job so no problems with the machineing work done,I found it worked well with .22lr conversion in my rifle, I then tried it with .223 blanks to be safe, after a few shots which were quiet it then started to collapse the baffels. Is normal alloy too soft, does it need to be anodised or should I have used stainless for the baffels? or could it be that I used blanks and not live rounds? this put me off trying with live rounds!!!! Any thoughts?
    Stainless for the blast chamber , beyond that , who know's? To small internal volume , poor material's/design/craftsmanship , could be anything
    Will Hayden, RedJacket Firearms
    www.Redstick-Firearms.com

  10. #20
    Gunco Member dinger's Avatar
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    Hi after having a very good think about my "failed can", I think its because the first chamber I made was an axel shaped tube with porting in the main section and steel wadding wrapped around it to absorb the heat and allow the gasses to expand, then a serise of baffels until it reached the end, all in alloy, which I think was my mistake in a high velocity round, the can was 3" dia x 12" long and was made with shouldered threaded end cap's to ensure alighnment and to be able to clean it. What I found out had happened was judging by the blast marks on the first part of the blast chamber, it looked like the full force of the gases just hit the first plate and subsequent shots eventually weakened in until it " crushed the axel shaped section" I'll remake it with stainless internells and have another try. ps has any one come across a drawing for the " sure fire can's" I used one on an M4 and it was the dogs nuts, I have not been able to come across one over here but the best thing about it was its small size, quick fitting and it certainly was quite, just what you would expect from SF equipment.

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