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Thread: First AK build problems

  1. #11
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I've used the vise/BFH method and an air chisel to remove barrel pins. For both of them it is important to use a hard enough punch that is very short like 1/4-3/8" to get it started. After it pops and moves a little they usually are a lot easier to get the rest of the way out. I have a heavy 6" vise and I use a heavy lead hammer to hit the movable jaw of the vise as hard as I can, like I'm trying to break it. It is important to get everything square and use a stepped backer contoured to the trunion with a hole to allow the barrel pin to pass through. For the air chisel I just cut off the head of one of the longer bits so I ended up with basically a round bar 3-4" long. I then took a nut and tac welded in a hardened pin made fom an old grade 8 bolt with about 1/4" of the pin sticking out. I slip the nut with the pin over chisel bar and place it over the barrel pin. You do have to go carefully as the air chisel will want to wonder around, but go in short bursts and that will help. After you get most of the 1/4" pin pushed in, just take a longer pin and place it on top of the barrel pin and drive it with just the cut off chisel. You can hold it with your fingers to steady it, just be carefull not to let yourself get pinched by the chisel. To push the barrel out get a pully puller from the automotive store. Place a bunch of nickels/pennies on top of the barrel, hook up the puller and you'll be amazed how easily the barrel comes out.

  2. #12
    jr. builder/tinkerer Caspian45's Avatar
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    having a BFV helps. The vise weighs 150 lbs. Put a cheater bar on it and it'll crush a VW without a prob.

    As for a DIYer pin, for a long time I used screwdriver bit insert ground down so that it was flat and thin enough to fit. Now I use hardened pins.

  3. #13
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    I too use the vice method, I got a 6" Harbor Freight one, and use 2 nuts taped together with a notch ground in the one so it will sit flat on the trunion, and I use grade 8 bolts as a pin (start short).
    The hard part is setting it up in the vice, a third hand is helpful, tighten everything up as tight as possible and smack it with the hammer.






  4. #14
    Gunco Member jmemmert's Avatar
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    very nice!!!

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    Gunco Member Big Dick Dubloon's Avatar
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    Thanks for the easy to follow pictures. I'll try that tomorrow and I expect it will work well. My vise is smaller, but I'll put a piece of pipe on it if I need more leverage cranking it.

    Nick

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    Indian Admin Winn R's Avatar
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    Henna Ojisan Sam7.62's Avatar
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    Maybe a no-brainer, but safety glasses are a must.
    "If a nation expects to remain ignorant and free, in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be." - Thomas Jefferson

  8. #18
    Gunco Member Big Dick Dubloon's Avatar
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    Reminding me to wear safety glasses is never a waste of time!

    I am going to try thr vise method and was wondering if I should use a big metal hammer, or a rubber on loaded with shot? Also, is there a way to use a vise to push the barrel out?

    Thanks,

  9. #19
    jr. builder/tinkerer Caspian45's Avatar
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    probably a softer hammer. Vices are fairly ductile and may shatter depending on the quality of the vice. I've never seen anyone pound on the vice. I am thinking that is not good on the screw. I'd stick with a cheater bar unless you are sure your vice will handle the beating.

    I can't think of a way to use the vice to remove the barrel. Spend some time on the BIY AK forum and look through the threads. You will see methods using a bearing puller. I've never gone that route, but others have had success. I went the 12 ton press route.

    Good Luck,
    Chris

  10. #20
    Gunco Member Big Dick Dubloon's Avatar
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    I was thinking the same thing about hitting the vise. The vise I will be using is pretty old, and not mine, so I really don't want to damage it. I'll be trying to get the pin out in a couple hours after I run some errands and pick up the #8 bolts and the nuts.

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