your showing a 7.62x39 mag the 30 rounder an what appears to be a bulgy 223 mag the short one
the steel curved 7.62x39 mag will not work correctly if at all for this gun an im surprised it even fits. sell it or trade it or send it to me LOL
is this gun a 223 or a 7.62x39?????? Im assuming its 223. two of the mags are 223
there are no spring loaded 7.62 x 39 firning pin bolts I know of. an you appear to have one so its a 223 .
You have to push hard on the end of the bolt stem in order to feel it move and I can't even pust it out far enough to see the pin protrude.
the bolt you have appears to be a bulgy 223 bolt large stem an spring loaded . the stem should be about" .430 dia . I would call the pin spring pressure medium to light I can push my pin in with a finger with out any strain if its HARD to push as you describe then maybe it the wrong spring or full of rust or some thing but it should not be hard to push . it only needs to be hard enough to keep the pin off the primer during a the return cycle .
I can't even pust it out far enough to see the pin protrude.[/
I JUST PULLED MY 223 TARGET RIFLE APART TO CONFIRM THIS IT HAS A BULGY 223 SPRING LOADED BOLT .
IF YOU BUT THE STEM IN OF YOUR BOLT ON A HARD FALT SURFACE AN PUSH DOWN SO THE STEM AN FIRING PIN ARE FLUSH YOU SHOULD HAVE AROUND .030" OF PIN PROTRUSION MINE HAS EXACTLY .030" WITH 5000 ROUNDS ON IT . IF YOU DO NOT HAVE ANY OR VERY LITTEL THIS IS WHY YOU GUN DOES NOT FIRE. IT MUST HAVE PROTRUTION !!!!!!!!! THERE ARE NO MAYBE OR KIND OF HERE TO BE RIGHT IT NEEDS PROTRUSION. IT TAKES ABOUT 6 OR 7 POUNDS OF PRESSURE TO PUSH IT .
ALL AK FIRING PINS SHOULD HAVE PROTRUSION . YOU MIGHT GET A FIRING DUE TO THE INERTIA OF THE PIN BUT ITS NOT A INERTIA PIN SYSTEM THE HAMMER IS SUSPOSED TO DRIVE THE PIN INTO THE PRIMER . !
IF YOUS DONT PROTRUDE ITS BROKEN OR WORN OUT BUT ITS NOT RIGHT I PROMISE YOU .
it looks like its MAYBE using a 7.62x39 carrier that is to wide for a normal 223 mag an that's why it dosent pass through the short bulgy mag. the area of the carrier that passes through the mag lips needs to be narrow enough to not hit the mag lips. its hard to tell from the pictures just take the mag an see if the carrer is to wide or not . a standard 7.62x39 carrier will need modifcations in most cases to work.
if both mags are bulgy 223 they should work. I don't know what the larger plastic one is ? a galil mag may or may not work as is if it dosent you can ada little weld to the front lug to raise the mag up.
on a 223 its imperative the mags are up high in the receiver an likely touching the lower rails . if there not the bolt will ride over or lose the round part way through an also a low mag the rounds will not feed correctly . I just went through all this on a 223 Weiger clone.
there is nothing romanion abut this gun that I see . maybe a trunion..
THE BARREL WELDED TO THE TRUNION SCARES TO ME . BARRELS ARE NOT HEAT TREATED HARD THAT IS FOR A REASON . THE WELD HOWEVER WILL MAKE THE AREA HARD AN POSSABLEY BRITTLE AN IT COUD FAIL . ITS WELDED IN THE WORST POSSABLE PLACE DIRECTLY OVER THE CHMABER AN TO THE POINT THAT ALL THE HARMONICS START FROM BASICALY ITS WELDED FROM THE POINT THE BARREL BENDS FROM AS THE BARREL WIPS DURING THE CYCLE. THE CHAMBER SEES OVER 50,000 PSI AN ITS WELDED ON IN A HIGH PRESSURE HIGH FLEX AN POSSABLE HIGH TENSIL STRETCH AREA IF THE WELD IS ACTUALY HOLDING IT IN. THERE HAS TO BE A ISSUE WITH THE BARREL PIN FOR THEM TO NEED TO WELD IT . SELL THE TRUNION TO SOME ONE DOING A PISTOL CAL BLOW BACK .
THERE HAVE BEEN PEOLE HURT WIOTH THESE GUNS ! THE MOST COMMON EXAMPLE I CAN LIKELY DOCUMNET IS THE REAR TRUNION COMING UN WELDED AN YOU GETTING A FACE FULL OF BOLT AN CARRIER . THE REAR TRUNION CONNECTION SEES MORE STRESS THAN THE FRONT AS THE CARRER PUSHES AGAINST IT THROUGH THE SPRING AN MIGHT EVEN BOTTOM OUT ON IT . ANY WAY YOU HAVE 4 REALLY CRAPY WELDS GEPPING IT FROM DRIVING INTO YOUR RIGHT EYE! EVENIF THE BOLT DOSENT GET YOU THE COMPRESSED SPRING AS THE CARRER COMES BACK WILL. AGAIN GUYS HAVE BEEN SERIOUSLY HURT FROM REAR TRUNION SEPERATION . IF THE FRONT LUGS FAIL FROM A HEAT TREAT DAMAGE ISSUE YOU MIGHT BE KILLED .
PERSONALY I WOULD NOT USE THE GUN . I WOULD NOT LET MY KID STAND ANY WERE NEAR IT .
THE ONLY GUNS YOU WILL SEE STUFF WELDED TO OF ANY QUALITY FROM A MANFACTURER WILL BE THINGS LKE BREAK OPENS WITH A LUG WELDED TO THE BARREL . THOSE ARE WELDED UNDER VERY CAREFULL CONDITIONS AN ARE HEAT TREATED PROPERLY . H&R HANDI RIFLE LUGS ARE WELDED AN THE PROCESS IS A SECRET THAT THEY WILL NOT DISCUSS.
IF IT WERE MINE ID REBARREL IT ON A NEW TRUNION AN USE A NEW BARREL. ID MILL OUT THE SPOT WELDS AN FIX THE REAR TRUNION PROPERLY AN ID ADD A NEW RECVIER WHILE I WAS AT IT . ITS LIKE A ROCK CHIP IN YOUR WINDSHIELD YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN OR IF ITS GOING TO LET GO.
iF I DID FOUR SPOT WELDS ON A HARDEND STEEL ATTACHING .040" SHEET METAL TO THE OBJECT THAT WAS NOT PREHEATED PROPERLY TO WELD AN THEN SAID OK PUT YOUR FACE 4 INCHED IN FRONT OF IT WHILE I HIT IT WITH A SLEDGE HAMMER AN ITS GOING TO HIT YOU SQUARE IN THE FACE IF MY 4 CRAPPY ALREADY AN NOT EVEN HAVING THE TWO PARRENT METALS TOUCHING THAT ARE 3/16" EACH OBVOUOSLY POORELY DONE WELDS FAIL? YOU WOULD RUN AT THE IDEA OF DOING IT. HOW EVER ITS EXACTLY WHAT YOUR DOING WITH THE WELDED IN REAR TRUNION AN YOU WANT TO DO IT AS FASST AS YOU CAN PULL THE TRIGGER .
THAT IS AS HONEST AS I CAN SAY IT . YOU REALLY NEED TO THINK ABIUT IT AN HOW MUCH YOU TRUST THE GUYS WHO COBBLED THIS GUN TOGETHER AN THOSE WELDS AN THE METAL THATS BEEN AFFECTED.