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Mauser project

10K views 99 replies 13 participants last post by  1biggun 
#1 ·
All the Mauser talk here lately motivated Me to dig out a project that got side tracked a couple of years ago. This is my 3rd Mauser project which in no way makes me an expert on the subject, but I have picked up a few things along the way.

I had already blueprinted the receiver before the project got shelved. It's a 1937 Czechoslovakian VZ-24 (large ring Mauser)
 

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#9 ·
I'm going to pillar bed the receiver and free float the barrel.
You can see that the rear mounting hole comes slightly elongated to accommodate variations in receivers. The receiver needs a solid lock up there for best accuracy. Here's how to do it. The pillar also solidly locks the receiver to the TG. First you need to drill out that hole large enough to fit the pillar and the bedding compound. Then accurately cut the pillar to the correct length. I also opened up the area around the front receiver lug to allow for the bedding material.
 

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#10 ·
This pic shows the notch that must be cut in the TG to accept a trigger mounted safety.
You need to tape up the stock and apply the release formula to anything that you do not want the bedding compound to stick to.

In the 3rd pick you can see where I plugged the holes where I do want it to stick with silicone plugs before applying the release compound.
 

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#14 ·
Yes, it's steel. I did a lot of searching around for that. Numrich has the best deal out there. This is the third time I've used one, which speaks for itself.
Trigger Guard, Hinged, Commercial

Most steel ones are in the $150+ range. Some are really crazy
PETE GRISEL-DESIGNED CUSTOM FLOORPLATE - Brownells

You can get them in aluminum for $83
MAUSER 98 TRIGGERGUARD & FLOORPLATE - Brownells

This one was brought up in another thread, if you are interested in a box.
CDiPrecision Gunworks

From this thread
http://www.gunco.net/forums/f259/wtb-trade-muaser-98-action-68659/
 
#16 ·
GREAT THREAD . ID LOVE TO HAVE ALL THE TOOLING YOU HAVE TO DO MINE ( WHEN GET A RECIVER/ACTION) . LOOKS LIKE YOU GOT A FEW BUCKS TIED UP IN TOOLING . IM REALLY HESITANT TO BUY ALL THAT FOR ONE GUN . IF I HAD THE TOOLING LIKE THAT ID HAVE BEEN BUILDING MAUSERS A LONG TIME AGO.

GREAT PICS AN EVERY THING. THIS IS WHAT I NEED FOR INFO.

WHY DONT THEY USE A RECOIL LUG LIKE A REMINGTON ACTION ???????

I saw a Spaindau? GEM 98 COBBLED SPORTER AT A SHOP ON THURSDAY ITS A ROUGH LOOKING GUN. THE METALL LOOKS GOOD AT LEAST ABOVE THE WOOD LINE.

I MAY GO BACK AN ASK IF THE SHOP WILL LIT ME LOOK UNDER THE WOOD. THE GUY IS A REAL DICK HEAD. HE GOT PISSED BECUASE O OPENED THE ACTION. I DONT KNOW WHO BUYS A USED GUN WITH OPENING THE ACTION. ITS MISSUNG THE CAPTURE SCREWS AN WHO KNOWS WHAT ELSE IS WRONG. I CAN GET IT FOR AROUND $180 . ITS A GERMAN RECIVER ANT HE BOLT IS BENT . I COULD TELL IF THE BOLT WAS MATCHING OR NOT . ID ALMOST RATHER BUY ONE THATS BEEN TRUED AN HAS A GOOD TRIGGER ALREADY FOR A $100 MORE.

I HAVE A NICE BORE ( FROM WHAT I CAN SEE) SCHULTS AN LARSEN BARREL IN 6.5X55. ITS FOR A MODEL 58 TARGET RIFLE APPARENTLY THEY WERE MADE FOR THE DANISH SHOOTING TEAM. ITS 27.5" LONG AN IS A LOW TAPER THAT IS ABOUT .770" AT TEH MUZZEL. I WAS GOING TO USE IT FOR A AK BUILD BUT ID LIKE TO SEE WHAT IT WOULD DO ON A BOLT ACTION .
 
#17 ·
yes great post its good to see someone working on something besides a AK, I started working with mausers as a boy in the early sixties, great way for one to get real experience, slapping ak's and ar's together is not smithing

love the tools you have also, wish we had more threads like this
 
#18 ·
When I bought all the tooling a few years back, I already had 3 receivers in hand and envisioned doing even more. Receivers were cheap and plentiful.
I finished two and got as far as the receiver prep on this one, when I kind of lost interest and moved on to something else.
I was glad when we started talking about Mausers here lately, it gave me the motivation to dust this project off and finish it up.
I might consider renting out the tool package (everything except the ream and gauges) to members.
 
#19 ·
I WOULD BE UP FOR POSSABLY RENTING THE TOOLING. I NEED TO GET ALL MY DUCKS IN A ROW FIRST.


MY FIRST QUESTION IS HOW FAR OFF IS THIS STUFF TO START WITH???? I GUESS I NEVER COULD FIGURE OUT HOW IT WAS MACHINED SO WRONG TO START WITH . I HEAR HOW REMINGTONS NEED ALL THIS WORK AN WONDER HOW WAS IT DONE SO FAR OFF FROM THE START???

SEEMS TO ME IF A GUY HAS THE BOLT FACE TRUE TO THE BORE AN BOTH LUGS ARE MAKING GOOD CONTACT IT SHOULD BE ACCURATE.

WHAT DO YOU AVOID WHEN LOOKING AT A RECIVER ????
 
#21 ·
MY FIRST QUESTION IS HOW FAR OFF IS THIS STUFF TO START WITH???? I GUESS I NEVER COULD FIGURE OUT HOW IT WAS MACHINED SO WRONG TO START WITH .

SEEMS TO ME IF A GUY HAS THE BOLT FACE TRUE TO THE BORE AN BOTH LUGS ARE MAKING GOOD CONTACT IT SHOULD BE ACCURATE.
Unfortunately, there is no way to know how far off it is until you have the tooling set up on the receiver. A couple of things to keep in mind.

First, a typical Mauser, (let's take this one for example, mfg 1937) was mfg over 70 years ago. We are capable of much better machining accuracy today.

Second, They were cranking these out as fast as possible as Germany started it's little trip across Europe.

Third, Other than the sniper versions, which probably received a little extra TLC and were also scoped, these were built for the infantry where 300 yard shots would be considered a very long shot, especially with just having iron sights.

If you really want to reach out to 800 yards, you really need everything to be right on. A thousandths off here or there could make the difference between a hit or miss.

None of the processes described above removed a lot of material, but they all removed some.
Starting with a receiver where you know everything is straight, square, true, flat, parallel etc. is step number one for the type of accuracy you are looking for.
 
#20 ·
IF A MAUSER ALREADY HAS A FACTROY BENT BOLT WILL IT CLEAR MOST SCOPES???

I SEE MANY BOLT HANDELS HAS A RELIEVED AREA EVEN WHEN ITS BENT. SOME OF THE GERMAN MAUSERS HAD BENT BOLTS BUT THEY LOOK SHORT ARE THESE WORKABLE WITH A SCOPE AS IS?????

I WILL BE RUNNING BIG OPTICS ON WHAT EVER I BUILD.

SEEMS LIKET ERE ARE A ZILLION TRIGGERS THAT FIT LARGE RING MAUSERS BUT DO THEY FIT ALL LARGE RING MAUSERS???

ILL BE NEEDING A TARGET TRIGGER AROUND 14 OZ OR SO

IM ENVESIONING A LONG RANGE VARMINT GUN 800 YARDS AN BEYOND.
 
#22 · (Edited)
I don't know much about the bent handle bolts other than they are harder to find and more expensive. I have always started with straight handles.
You have 3 options when starting with a straight handle bolt.

A) bend the handle, (forging blocks are available and not very pricey)

B) cut off the straight handle and weld on an aftermarket one. (several different ones are available)

C) cut off the handle and use a bolt on replacement.

The only trigger I know of that is available with a pull weight that light is the double set made by new england custom guns. Lightest single set style that I know of is the Timney featherweight at 24oz.
 
#24 ·
GOOD INFO

I WAS NOT AWARE THAT VERY LIGHT TRIGGERS WERE THAT HARD TO GET FOR A MAUSER.

I HAVE SEVERAL SPORTERISED MAUSERS AN THEY ALL NEED TRIGGERS

WHATS THE BEST ENTRY LEVEL HUNTING WEIOGHT TRIGGER ( 4LBS OR SO)

I HAVE A 7MM MAUSER WITH A MEDIUM WEIGHT SPORTER BARREL THAT DOSENT SEEM TO SHOOT THAT GREAT. I HAVE CONSIDERED TRUING THE ACTION AN SETTINGTHE BARREL BACK AN RECUTTING THE CHAMBER. I NEED TO MAKE SURE ITS NOT MY LOADS FIRST.

THEN THERE IS A 308 ON A REALLY NICE ACTION I HAVENT SHOT YET IN A CHEAP PLASTIC STOCK WITH A INTERNAL BOX AN NO METAL FLOOR PLATE. IT WONT FEED AN IM SURE THERE IS A ISSUE WITH THE FOLLOWER /SPTING SET UP OR THE CHEASY STOCK. I NEED TO GET A FEW OF THESE PROJECTS SQUARED AWAY. ILL LIKLEY RESTOCK THIS ONE AN ADD A FLOOR PLATE LIKE YOU LISTED AT NUMRICH/
 
#25 ·
WHATS THE BEST ENTRY LEVEL HUNTING WEIOGHT TRIGGER ( 4LBS OR SO)
Are you looking for a trigger with a safety or are you planning on keeping the shroud mounted safety?

If you want a trigger mounted safety use a Bold Optima.
If you do not, then you can use a Bold Premium or a Timney Sportsman. There are lots of triggers available out there for the 98, but these are the only ones I have any experience with. These work very well and in my opinion represent the best value.
There are cheaper and more expensive triggers available, but these will give you the most bang for your buck
 
#29 ·
Nice work! I also got most of those tools back when receivers were plentiful and cheap. I have got my money back over time. Built several guns with them. All three of my sons and my brother hunt with a "mtdew" built mauser. I have used Adams & Bennet barrels with great results. You can pay more but why? I also think the Bold trigger is best for the money. I wish I could find about a dozen reasonably priced receivers.
 
#32 ·
... All three of my sons and my brother hunt with a "mtdew" built mauser....
Funny you should mention that. The very first one I built was done using the same exact stock as this one except it was brown (Boyd calls it nutmeg IIRC)

I took it, along with my Remington 742, to my buddy's place in Maine for deer season. The Mauser had only a handful of rounds through it for testing and dialing in the scope.
My buddy really liked it right off the bat and wanted to take it out opening day.
Son of a bitch, if he doesn't drop a fine 8 pointer about a half hour into deer season, with the first round that ever went though it in the woods.

He didn't want to give it back and drove me crazy for 3 days until I sold it to him. I never even got a chance to shoot it other than the test rounds.:rofl:
 
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