now the rear sight base
Next to drill and tap the screw hole for the rear base screw. Thats for tomorrow. There's Drambuie to be sipped right now!
how cobbled is the bolt you have??
I have one of those mausers thats going to be a 6x55 target rifle some day
The bolt handle was bent improperly for use with either a sporter or original. It would work well to replace the handle with a nice custom aftermarket handle. The bolt on the bottom in both pics is the bubba bent bolt. The one on the top is the correct bolt. The middle bolt in the second pic has a custom handle from Brownells I welded on for my .338 win mag mauser.
Last edited by mtdew; 12-23-2014 at 04:48 PM.
big, If you could use this bolt let me know.
All righty then! I remembered after looking at it close that I dont have to tap the bbl for the rear sight base screw. The base is threaded, all I had to do is drill a divot in the bbl for the lower unthreaded part of the screw to go into. On to the next step.
mtdew, on the bolt for your .338 WinMag, the knob seems to be farther towards the rear of the action than the others. Would there be a problem with having the knob ever farther rearward? My personal preference is to have the knob even with the position of the trigger when fired.
Have you found the front sight to be brazed or hot-soldered?
Also, is the quality of the wood in the stock as high as the rest of the rifle? I would like to 'slim' the stock. This was popular back in the '50s and early '60s on lever-actions. Basically you take a belt sander from fore-end to toe, trying to maintain as many of the curves and lines as possible. If I remove wood, do you think I'll find voids?
Sorry for all the questions. Been playing with things that go bang since the mid '60s, but these are my first Mausers.
Hunter, I posted this sunday but it didn't show up? So heres the condensed version. My custom handle could come back maybe 1/2" farther. As long as the knob don't hit your trigger finger upon recoil.
The front sight base is usually soft soldered on. Drift the sight out of the base and you will see a screw at the bottom of the dovetail. Remove this screw and apply heat to the base till the solder starts to bubble and give it a tap. It should move off the bbl fairly easy.
Some wood is so oil soaked that it just aint worth it. I have not seen a vz24 that was not soaked thru and thru. I have one I have worked on off and on for years just to experiment(pic below). I used every oil removing trick there is and as soon as I hit it with the rasp I hit more oil. Clogs up rasps and sandpaper quick. Some I have from other countrys look like finely figured walnut with little to no oil. U will just have to see whats under the old finish.
Last edited by mtdew; 08-03-2014 at 12:56 AM.
PM sentbig, If you could use this bolt let me know.
I love that your saving that rifle .