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EVAPORUST WORKS!!!!!!

2K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  jreifsch80 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,
I remember a little while ago there was a thread about the best methods for removing rust/oxidation. I mentioned in that thread that a few years ago I had started to use a product called Evaporust. This is a very simple to use product that helps you to keep from contaminating your blasting cabinet media while safely removing rust/oxidation i.e. old bluing with out removing material from your gun project. Its non-biohazardous and nearly odor free so you can use it indoors with out mama san swatting the beans out of you. It is as simple as soaking your metal project in the solution for as little as 30 minutes to up to 24 hours for really badly rusted parts. It runs about $20.00 for a gallon and you can strain and reuse it many times. Here are some before and after pictures of 2 receivers that were badly rusted that I let soak for 10 hours today. Take a look and let me know what you think.
will6970

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#5 ·
Will.

My God. Your missing your calling in life. Your post was like one of those 3 a.m. infomercials.
"Try it buy it. Act now and we will even give you your second gallon free."
I was looking for my cell phone. :lol:
 
#6 ·
Hey 4th,
I wish I could get paid for this. Lol... This stuff is amazing....what was your cc number again? Just kidding, I figured that anyone who does not have a blasting cabinet would benefit from using this stuff as it works, and will not break the piggy bank. Hey whats the story on going to the range with Stan and the other Florida Gunco members?
 
#11 ·
Will.



Stan is buried in work. Tried too get him too take a day off and go fishing.
No go. Wish I was 30 years younger. I would work for free too learn at his shop.
Probably fire me or shoot me the first day. My mechanical ability is that of a chimp.
He got a phone call and asked me too hit the red button on the compressor.
4,000 machines in the shop. 4,000 red buttons.
I thought I was defusing a friggen bomb. Thank God I hit the rite red button. He almost hit me in the back of the head with the phone. :)
We will get him out of there. I will p.m. you when he does.
 
#8 ·
I have used this product with great sucess. It won't make the part look like new but close.

Used it on some upper rails that I had that were a little rusty. Took all the rust off.
 
#9 ·
Yep, it works good. I recently used it on some small parts for a Shopsmith I was restoring and it just dissolves the rust away without any work or scrubbing. I used a glass jam jar and the rust particles were in a fine powder at the ottom of the jar after 3 days.

That said, it does seem to leave a shadow or discoloration on some metals..so you may want to make sure your part is fully submerged.
 
#15 ·
Yep, it works good. I recently used it on some small parts for a Shopsmith I was restoring and it just dissolves the rust away without any work or scrubbing. I used a glass jam jar and the rust particles were in a fine powder at the ottom of the jar after 3 days.

That said, it does seem to leave a shadow or discoloration on some metals..so you may want to make sure your part is fully submerged.
what kind of shopsmith are you restoring? i have an old ER model that is in pretty decent shape but for the life of me i can't find a replacement belt, i might just have to get one of those adjustable belts :(
 
#10 ·
i used it on a motorcycle gas tank last summer, put a gallon in the tank and sloshed it around had it in there for a day sloshing it around every couple hours and changing the position of the tank to let every side soak. the next day i drained it out washed out the inside of the tank with water then alcohol and it was spotless inside from how i could see. ended up sealing the inside with that gas lank liner stuff.

my Dad and i sold the bike though, 1975 suzuki ts185 with only 220 original miles
 
#14 · (Edited)
Hi Brian,
You don't have to, unless you had some bad pitting that you want get rid of or try to blend in, for an overall more uniform finish. Other than that it would be personal preference. Unless I am going for a BFPU look I generally will blast my parts with very fine glass bead or aluminum oxide, then either park or K-phos the parts before using KG Gunkote. Everybody works a little different, but I have had good success with this process.
will6970
 
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