Thanks Kernel, once again you saved me from a lot of aggravation.
Thanks Kernel, once again you saved me from a lot of aggravation.
first test fire
50 rounds of Remington 230gr JHPs --all fired no failures
50 rounds of 230gr JHPs reloads --no failures
15 rounds of tula 230gr FMJ's fired 00about as many failure to feeds!
i got a tula 230gr FMJ stuck on the ramp just below the barrel just about every attempt to fire. if i was lucky i might get three off before the next hang-up.
the total irony is i have fired this remington rand slide/barrel on my the foster frame and it ran fine on FMJ's but would sometimes get a stick on JHPs!! LOL!
this RIA is the reverse it is running JHP's fine and the tula FMJs want to hang up on the ramp!
the steel jacket tula may be the cause of this , possibly too much friction with the steel jacket hitting the still not fully polished ramp.
it could be a recoil spring issue --my next trip out i am gonna carry the CO-- 1911 with the 18.6lb recoil spring and i am going to try some better FMJ ammo. though the tula has been running fine in my other 1911s and OSS you can sort of tell that the tula is loaded at bare minimum to cycle the actions with the 18.5lb wilson spring.
it sometimes only tosses the tula cases a short distance up in the air to only hit the slide--the OSS and the other 1911s do this too with the tula--
the remington loads it tosses them out of your face.
i was delighted on how quick i got accurate with this new build.
i tossed out a few empty 1 gallon plastic bleach jugs at ranges 15m, 25m and 35M--
i started out just shooting the jugs off hand , the quickly became too easy so i started shooting at the blue plastic caps on the jugs.
the 15 yard cap got shot off the second shot, after a very near miss, the 25 yard cap got hit three times out of five , the 35 yard cap took a hit on the 4th try and two more shot it to pieces .
i ended up shooting at the opening of the plastic jugs and either hit the hole or barley missed, hitting the neck portion of the jugs.
very fun to shoot and it just loves 230 JHP full power loads--
the RIA didn't seem to have a favorite mag --though it did preform a little better with the crappy tulas in the metal form or chip Mc mags.
the ACT/McGar 8 round mags and tula was the worst, could not get three round out in a row with the tula.
all mags worked with the JHPs --yea i know --weird--LOL!
second test fire-- i think it is finally lined out. the feeding problem with the FMJ's is finally sorted out.
the feed ramp hangs were from an improper angle in the feed ramp, it took a couple re-works a polish and a tune up on the breech mouth ramp to get it to run correctly.
now it runs FMJ's HPs and anything else i can find. previously it was feeding JHPs and sticking hard on FMJs . really big jam ups with the tula.-- even when it fed the JHPs it was banging up the bullets so it was bad off somewhere on the feed ramp.
today i fired 50 rounds of remington FMJ, 50 rounds of tula FMJ and about 50 re-loads of JHPs without incident. all 230g-
there is something a tiny bit "non -standard " about this frame because the same barrel, slide set up ran fine on the other two 1911s.
when i swapped the slide from the DSA or the CO A 1911s the same problems came up with the RIA frame.
on this build it was all very easy except for a few small detail things till i got to the ramp.
the ramp took several hours serious work to get lined out.
i don't know if all RIA frames need this much work on the ramp. i can say this one was just about in a unfinished state. no way it could feed rounds like it came--
so this RIA ain't no "drop in" build but it was not all that difficult either. just be prepared to work the ramp.
PS i forgot to mention this build was just a shop tools build. no special 1911 tooling. hell i didn't even make that tool i said i was for staking the plunger.
it was not all that difficult really and the ramp problem on my RIA i think is an oddity. i figure sarco may get a few slightly off spec frames in their lot of RIA's so this little incident is probably not typical of RIA guns.
i figure even SARCO gets in spec frames and a few that are seconds in some way. which i would judge be typical SARCO from my previous deals from them.--LOL!
Last edited by j427x; 06-09-2012 at 01:46 PM.
Congrats! I knew you'd get it. When it's a hundred years old, it will still work the exact same way it works right now.
The Essex I worked on was the same way.
They make tools for that process but what I did was set my Dewalt mitre saw to 31.25 degrees, and modified a feeler gauge to lock in that exact position and then just sanded with a dowel rod and checked with the gauge until I got it.
The Kernel might want to kill me for this one, then I worked the paper up to 600 with a Scripto marker. It works well.
I also learned that if there are machine marks in the inside of the slide, a piece of 3/4 CPVC pipe with sandpaper contact cemented onto it works like it should be sold by Brownells.
Also the ol' trick of crimping the plunger spring worked like a charm. I put a crimp on the 7th coil counting from the safety end. The crimp was more like an 'uncoiling' not a 'kinking'. It offset those last 7 coils to make the spring almost twice as wide.It was difficult to get back in so it slid a 1/16 punch into the spring and pushed it in with that. Once the spring was in and the punch was out, the detent just slid right home, and stayed there. With the safety removed it will stick out a little better than 3/8. Easy to push in with a pick.
The saftey now has a nice crisp feeling where before it felt different than most 1911's. It had kind of a cheap feeling to it prior to the Kernels' fix.
So again, thank every one here for your knowledge and your willingness to share it.
plunger spring that don't need a crimp--
Plunger Spring 1911
hell i just bent mine like this one and they don't jump out anymore. something about hammering on these fragile plunger tubes makes me a little uneasy--LOL!
-the trigger ain't far from that CO arms 1911 i tuned up with the S&W hammer and the cylinder and slide spring kit--
it is nice to keep a few spare parts just so you can swap things around. sort of like cherry picking stock engine parts back in the old days--LOL!
i going to say-- the S&W hammer is still a little better--it was the tuning of the sear spring that helped most. i may pick up another of those cylinder and slide reduced pressure sear springs and see if i can fet another 1/2 pound off the trigger pull.
right now it is just a hair behind the CO-a 1911 which has the C&S spring.
the cheapo JM hammer had the same pull#weight but was too spongy--the S&W $9 hammer is still tops
Last edited by j427x; 06-09-2012 at 08:38 PM.
Hell, if I ran across a spring that looked like that one, I'd think it got stepped on. The genius of Mr. Browning is based on simplicity. (and no plastic)
Function of the disconnector
Be careful with the top of the disconnector..
My offer still stands on the sear jig. It will eliminate any felt movement of the trigger once your past the take up.
I just ordered one of those sear springs, I'll post an opinion on it once it arrives.
let us know if the C&S spring does any good.
at first i thought the C&S spring didn't help much.
having it installed in the foster framed 1911 for a few weeks i do believe it has helped some-- it may have cut the trigger pull by 1/2 a pound. (not the 1-1/2lb claimed)
the RIA is now running the exact same parts EXCEPT for the C&S sear spring and it is just under a half pound more pull. it has the wilson combat sear spring which i think is a bit of extra strength.
these things are a bit picky on sears and sear springs. i put an OEM spring in the RIA --it would not let the pistol cock the hammer!
so far the RIA is running fine but there is still one little disconnector related issue.
when i put a stock 16# spring in there and cycle the slide the slide hits a "bump" about where the disconnector sticks through the frame. this sometimes hang up the slide slightly.
there is just something this RIA frame don't totally accept about this S&W disconnector.
it might be the combination of S&W disconnector and charles daly sear that is just off enough to cause a bit of a rough cycle.
the RIA shoots fine and cycles ammo fine it just has a rough spot when you hand cycle the slide.
i am thinking of trying a RIA dissconector or maybe a charles daly disc--
i might try another sear if this little problem don't go away on its own.
yea i know i'm anal about 1911s--LOL
but my other 1911s got no bumping and no sticking--so there is something just a hair off on this RIA build.
before you ask-- i put the old rand slide on my other 1911s and she is smooth as oiled glass--