Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 35
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: Request for sticky: Best demill procedures (lessons learned) and correct rivets

  1. #11
    RIP Sangrun Hunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    12,413
    Feedback Score
    28 (100%)

    Default

    I use a bench grinder to grind my rivets off. Does the job and all I have to do is hold the peice lightly against the disc.

  2. #12
    Indian Admin Winn R's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    About 40 mi. north of Atlanta.
    Posts
    5,913
    Feedback Score
    18 (100%)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OODA_Loop
    No space for a drill press,.
    I understand -- why, I've known demented fools to call my first drill press stand a coffee table!!
    There is no nonsense so errant that it cannot be made the creed of the vast majority by adequate governmental action. -- Bertrand Russell


    "Never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by stupidity." Robert J. Hanlon

  3. #13
    Gunco Member bryan666999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Hebron, OH
    Posts
    77
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    DCI receivers are predrilled. BUT I think he may change that, but Im not sure.

    ALSO, the rivet deal. Here is what I found. The normal long rivets work just fine where they go. The trigger guard rivets, standard AK ones are too short. The rivet in the buldge, standard AK ones are too short. Here is the rivets that I used and was very pleased with how they turned out. You can get them from McMaster Carr.

    97300A105
    Plain Steel Round Head Solid Rivet 5/32" Diameter, 3/8" Length, Approx 300 Pcs/Pk
    In stock at $7.58 per Pack

    If you plan on more than one build, these are worth it in the long run. They will also work as standard length AK short rivets as well, but just trim them down a lil.

  4. #14
    Gunco Junkie robdog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    542
    Feedback Score
    7 (100%)

    Postak

    I suggest finding some AK friends in the area, or move. I would move, you have to have a priority, Guns should be your first priority.
    Some people are like Slinkies. Not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs.

  5. #15
    Gunco Veteran Icarus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1,054
    Feedback Score
    4 (100%)

    Default yugo stock removal

    how in the dickens do i get the butt stock of a m72 out of the rear trunion??
    American By Birth, Southern By the Grace Of God

  6. #16
    Gunco Member bryan666999's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Hebron, OH
    Posts
    77
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Im sure its like the M70s, take the butt pad off, take the long bolt out and it should come out. They are really tight in there. So do what you need to do to get it out.

  7. #17
    Polak WJ-Polish Guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Posts
    214
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OODA_Loop
    ....

    I would like to bypass unneccessary damage to my M70AB2 parts kit and use the most efficient and quick method of removing the original rivets.

    I have a dremel and was considering using the cutting disks. Thoughts?

    .....!
    Dremel is an useful but puny tool. I understand some of you guys do not want to invest big money in industrial power, but it is not a big money anymore.

    Harbor Freight has angle grinders for $14 or so on sale. I like to grind rivet head down to swell with it and then pry receiver stub away.

    Ground flat rivet head is a good base for driling. Get auto spring loaded punch, it is easier to have it right in the center than with hammer and punch.

    Bench press is a must for driling out long rivets. Good dril bits are also must. Start from small diameter drill, lube and cool well.
    I use 1/8 drils from HF, titanium nitrate coated, 10pcs for $2.50, for initial driling. You cant beat that price with the stick. Those cut through yugo rivets like with ease......

  8. #18
    Gunco Member kendwell's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    169
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Comments: for receiver and rivets other than the four mag catch: Aircraft tool suppliers make a nifty rivet drill that is spring loaded and auto centers the head/drill. This tool is @ 50.00, but you'll have perfect patterns (from riceiver pieces) for new rivet hole, or maybe a future ashtray.

    Drill press: econo buy is the home depot rigid or equivalent. Now go on e-bay and pick up a GOOD chuck, (ball bearing is nice). @30-40$.

    X-Y table. MSC supply had this on sale, maybe others too, for $100.00 Again, check google and e-bay.

    MSC supply also has SCREW MACHINE drills, and I am happily trying the tian coated cobalt (and they break!!) for drilling. Screw machine drills are much stiffer, and will wander much less

    I've completed a Cold Steel receiver on Yugo satisfactorily, heat treating the receiver in sections on longitudinal axis Strip heat treating) to include the top rails and rivet holes. I also welded the top front trunnion, using 3/32 7018 on 75 amps AC

    Parkerizing with Allegany kit, 45 minutes got a medium grey finish, while 10 minutes with top cover got quite dark. Welds and heat-treat shows thru. I'll re-do with a cure paint.

    Tanks: For dis-assembled AK, the Vollrath SS 1/2 size steam table pans 6" deep are just the right size. 18-8 SS, fit my 2 burner propane camp stove, and are the right price. I got 3 for $15 each + ship on E-bay.

    Wood: Scrape with broken glass, then MANY coats of 1/3 White vinegar, 1/3 mineral spirits, and 1/3 linseed oil. Shake well each time you take some out.
    A final coat of furniture wax isn't needed, but is pretty good after the 3/0 steel wool final.
    ak-addict likes this.

  9. #19
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    PA Where the Amish Roam Free
    Posts
    14,033
    Feedback Score
    38 (100%)

    Default

    It can be done with a Dremel & hand drill.
    Use a wide grinding bit and make the rivet heads flat. Then center punch and use good quality & sharp drill bits. Take your time with the long rivets, it's very easy to break a bit while doing these.

    But the others are right about the HF table top drill press. If you got some closet space you can keep in there until you need to use it, any sturdy table will do as a work bench.

  10. #20
    Gunco Rookie pinpuller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    19
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    soft rivets which ak's have, are best removed with a sharp cold chisel two full blows with a 1 pound ball peen hammer- wear safety glasses -next remove the cleaning rod and with your dremel cut to the front starting in the mag well opening stop just short of cutting into the lower forestock band. Take your hammer and tap on the old rail and off it comes, leaving you a nice template

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 LastLast

Search tags for this page

There are currently no search engine referrals.
Click on a term to search our site for related topics.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •