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Thread: Request for sticky: Best demill procedures (lessons learned) and correct rivets

  1. #21
    Gunco Veteran Lt762x39's Avatar
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    OODA,

    Sounds like a great reason to road trip and see your pop; and father's day is commin' up on us fast.

  2. #22
    Gunco Regular my-rifle's Avatar
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    I use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to slice the head right off. I then peel off the stub and finish cutting the rivets down flush with the trunnion. I really don't care if I scratch the part of the trunnion that goes inside the receiver, since it will never be seen anyway. Finally I use a centerpunch to smack out the short rivets, then use a 1/8" cobalt bit to drill out the long rivet. Usually I'm done in an hour.
    * This is My Rifle *

  3. #23
    Gunco Regular my-rifle's Avatar
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    Here's a more complete description of the demill process. The demill requires:

    1) a dremel tool with (several) cutoff wheels
    2) a center-punch
    3) a framing or dead-blow hammer
    4) a drill press with oil and a drill-press vise
    5) a 1/8" carbide drill bit
    6) a 5/32" carbide drill bit


    The demill process:

    • Dremel flat the heads of the rivets on the front trunnion.

    • Using the dremel and cutoff wheel slice the receiver stub from the magwell to the front of the receiver to split the stub in half.

    • Using two pairs of pliers pull the stubs off each side of the front trunnion.

    • Dremel the rivets flush with the trunnion.

    • Center-punch each rivet. If you ground it flush with the trunnion you should be able to bash it out with the center-punch and the hammer.

    • You should be able to repeat this process with the trigger guard rivets. I put the trigger-guard on a block of soft wood, to smack the rivets out. They just sink into the wood when they come out.

    • The rear trunnion. Remove the screws holding the butt-stock on.

    • Dremel off the rivet heads on the rear trunnion rivets

    • Peel off the receiver stubs using the same technique as you used on the front trunnion.

    • Grind flat the rivet ends.

    • At this point I have found it useful to soak the trunnion for a day or two in oil. You will have to drive out the rivets, so lots of oil inside the rivet-hole can be helpful.

    • Center punch each rivet rivet. Do so exactly in the center of each rivet.

    • Using your drill press and a 1/8" bit drill through each rivet from one side to the other. It's helpful to have a drill-press vise for this step to hold your trunnion exactly vertical.

    • Replace the bit with the 5/32" bit and drill trough each rivet again. If you didn't hit the center of the rivet with your center-punch you're likely on this step to drill into your trunnion.

    • Using a standard punch and a hammer fold over the ends of each rivet on one side of the trunnion, then drive the rivet out the other side.


    This may sound like a lot of work, but if you have the correct tools it takes about an hour excluding the oil soaking time. Most rivets will come out of the rear trunnion without oil, but some are just fighters.
    * This is My Rifle *

  4. #24
    Gunco Member carolyn martin's Avatar
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    How do you install the east german plastic but-stocks? The one I have is not drilled for screws. Thanks Caroline

  5. #25
    Gunco Regular uechiguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carolyn martin View Post
    How do you install the east german plastic but-stocks? The one I have is not drilled for screws. Thanks Caroline
    I put mine into the trunnion and then drilled the holes with a hand drill. Installed the screws and job done. With these light weight stockset be prepared for much more felt recoil.

  6. #26
    bil
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    I live where it gets real cold in the winter,I bring a small drill press inside on the kitchen counter,store it in a cabinet.You will find lots of uses for it.A quick tip-if you are using a dremel in a small apartment,you will get fine disk and metal particles all around-not good for electronics,etc.I got a large bar magnet from Home Depot,and set it up in the direction of particle travel,it collected most of the mess.Make a box to work in,TV box works.Keeps the mess in one area.Good luck. ---bil

  7. #27
    Gunco Member Cutmaster's Avatar
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    Good tip on the magnet. I discovered that by accident when I bought one of the stoplight changing madnets for my bike. I left it on the counter in the shop and pretty soon, it started collecting things!!

  8. #28
    Gunco Regular aceatm1nd's Avatar
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    on using magnets for indoor (or outdoor) grinding or metal removal-

    drop your magnet in a zip lock bag or a in a sandwich bag or two.

    That way, when you want the shavings off of the magnet (and not in your fingers), you just turn the bag inside out and pull the magnet out. Metal stays in the bag.

    Neodymium magnets are best IMO. They are very strong and will catch just about every piece that comes their way (they will literally snatch the shavings/chips out of the air). Downside is that they are small, so it is difficult to cover a wide area with them.
    A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, IS BEING infringed.
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    Says New York "... and failing to safely store a weapon could lead to a misdemeanor charge". W. T. F.

  9. #29
    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    The next time your PC's hard drive dies, don't toss it until you take it apart for the magnet(s). Rare earth types are used, be prepared to really have to pry to take them off of any steel surface. Would work great for shop magnets.
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

  10. #30
    Gunco Veteran Markp's Avatar
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    Oops ancient post

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