This is like picking what way to fish! I want to go the least expensive way, the one that requires most all the tools to be "normal" household equipment, and the one that does not take a college engineering degree! Do they have a true "Easy as 1, 2, and 3" way to build?
At $64 each for the RHGD "blank" (and I use the term loosely, that's an actual receiver IMHO), with no BATF letter stating that they are NOT a receiver, still in need of drilling and heat-treating, why not, instead,
Order a complete, top-of-the-line fully built receiver from NoDakSpud at $60 shipped. Find a local FFL01 to do the transfer and you'll not only benefit from the best receiver on the market, you'll have the machine work done and no worries that ATF might some day send you a letter demanding your "illegal" receiver be delivered to them.
As a new member, I am in awe of all the knowledge and expertise I am experiencing on this forum! I started out inocently purchasing one built AK on Gunbroker.com, received it on Sept. 11. Then I got the BUg! Ijust recieved my first Romanian parts kit from IO Inc. It is real nice. Then I turned around and bought two 100% receivers from IO Inc @ $44.00 a piece! My question is this are screw builds in any way "looked down upon" as inferior? And do you use locktite? I am an aircraft mechanic, and have driven countless Aluminum rivets, but I do not have any tools(like the Harbor freight bolt cutter conversion). The little voice inside says rivet, but for my first one I was considering screws, since rivets are what we A&P's call "One Way Fasteners" (very unforgiving if you f*&k it up)! Any advice?
Thanks Winn R. I did, I see, and your right! Now I also did a search for Plinker's Tools rivet jigs and such within the forums. As far as I can figure, the last reference to their availability was in 2007. Does anyone know if the maker of these tools is still manufacturing?
i havent heard any updates on plinker for a couple of months
some tried emailing and pming him-hopefully all is well with him
but you can check out Riveting Tools - AK-Builder.com
some of the best stuff in the bizz!probably THE best!
or you can put an ad out in the classifieds when you get your post count up
I didn't use anything to keep 'em square, welded them free hand! I did have to persuade them a little bit after welding, but was able to do that by hand really. Key to success is to keep the heat from getting too crazy and taking your time. Keep moving from side to side and front to back, don't weld one area too much.
:notworthy
very nice indeed!
my welding looks like a pigieons pit stop!
are there anymore sources to those flats?
i havent seen any in a long time
we have a nice tig at work im itching to use
They are out there, but I would wait for them to show up used. I just snagged 5 the other day for $20 each. I wouldn't pay more than that when you can get a completed receiver for $44.
I have gotten them as cheap as $10-15 each. People get them then end up dumping them... it's all good. I have 8 of these receivers. They are a perfect match for those $87.50 yugo kits.
cool!
i saw a few on gbroker but was leary on getting them
how hard is it to weld in the top rails?and how is the alignment of the notches?probably could trim with a dremmel-and how does all the holes line up?
just a sugestion could you post a ste by step on doing one?
hate to tie up a sticky
I don't have a whole bunch of pictures and don't have a step by step... You just kind of do it slowly so as not to warp things. If I get some time I will do one as a step by step, but I am pretty booked with my Ph.D. program.
cool!
i hear you on being booked up
its amazing how we do stuff when our every day responsibilites take up much of our time!so to actualy commit to somethig of a show and tell is tuff!
thanks for the tips!
(i shoulda triedthis route before i got the jig :slap: )
I think thats the same tig I have good machine except for the damm post flow of the gas is to long.
I did one of those weld up flat years ago I clamped a trunion in to keep it in place. I personaly would just buy a 100% before doing it again. it came out ok but I now bend my own.
Got all the tools and toys set up today, I am going to have to make at least 10 AK's to amortize the tooling cost down to 100.00 each, But with kits at $250.00 on their way and receivers at 60.00 or less. (built the bending jig today) and can now spot weld as well as mig weld (all for under $300.00 curtsey of H/F) I will get 10 flats from Curtis and bend and weld them up. Didn't plan on going into the AK business, but here in Las Vegas there is a great market for a well made gun. Ihave the riveting stuff but I really like the look of Screws so thats the first one on the bench, Waiting for some spray paint from Brownells and than a week or two to cure(as suggested and appreciated) No hurry to finish one up, I know if i take the time to do it right it will be all good, and if i rush it will be all s**t, I really appreciate all the feedback GUNCO RULES
I started out with and continiue to use bent blanks. Other methods may be better but I'm sticking to what I know. I already had moto tool, and drill press made things much easier and accurate. I think the cheapest way is to find someone who has all the tools and has done several builds. I helped several people build there own and saved them big bucks. I wish I could have found someone when I started. But then I did find gunco after the first one. The second turned out much nicer because of gunco folks.
Mark back when I got mine over 10 years ago I spoke to a technician at Lincoln abd he told me that a resistor could be solderd in to reduce the post flow. he also said it would void the warrenty. I never pursued it. It will drain a bottel pretty quick when doing spot to weld sheet metal together for examble 4 tack welds = 1 minute of flow 100 welds=25 minutes of flow.
I had for a while a 110v solenoid valve in line with a switch on the foot pedal that turned the valve on and off I also had a 5 second delay on it. I used to do a lot of body work and it was nessacary or the bottle was always empty. the delay box faild eventualy and the valve started to leak so I quit using it. If I ever start doing more body work with it all build another one.
but here in Las Vegas there is a great market for a well made gun
New to the site as well as to building an AK. I'm wondering if it's possible to use a romy barrel assembly with a Chinese bolt and carrier? Also, has anyone ever tried using a pottery kiln to fully heat treat a receiver? I have access to one which can heat up to 2000 degrees. Seems like it would work. Am I folding an improved Tapco and wondering if I'm likely to distort it with a full heat treat. Thanks in advance.
Was wondering if it's possible to use a romy barrel assembly with a Chinese bolt and carrier in a Tapco receiver? Also, I have access to a pottery kiln that can reach 2000 degrees. I would think I could use it to fully heat treat the receiver. Any thoughts or concerns?
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