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Thread: flats, bents, & 100%'s OH MY!

  1. #41
    GuncoHolic zteknik's Avatar
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    cool!
    i hear you on being booked up
    its amazing how we do stuff when our every day responsibilites take up much of our time!so to actualy commit to somethig of a show and tell is tuff!
    thanks for the tips!
    (i shoulda triedthis route before i got the jig )

  2. #42
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I used a Lincoln 175 PRO square wave TIG.
    I think thats the same tig I have good machine except for the damm post flow of the gas is to long.

    I did one of those weld up flat years ago I clamped a trunion in to keep it in place. I personaly would just buy a 100% before doing it again. it came out ok but I now bend my own.

  3. #43
    Gunco Veteran Markp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    I think thats the same tig I have good machine except for the damm post flow of the gas is to long.

    I did one of those weld up flat years ago I clamped a trunion in to keep it in place. I personaly would just buy a 100% before doing it again. it came out ok but I now bend my own.
    Yep, it flows forever and burns through gas too quickly!

    Mark

  4. #44
    GuncoHolic zteknik's Avatar
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    ok now i dont feel so bad!
    im better off bending my own flats!probably cheaper in the long run

  5. #45
    Gunco Member hk22045's Avatar
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    Got all the tools and toys set up today, I am going to have to make at least 10 AK's to amortize the tooling cost down to 100.00 each, But with kits at $250.00 on their way and receivers at 60.00 or less. (built the bending jig today) and can now spot weld as well as mig weld (all for under $300.00 curtsey of H/F) I will get 10 flats from Curtis and bend and weld them up. Didn't plan on going into the AK business, but here in Las Vegas there is a great market for a well made gun. Ihave the riveting stuff but I really like the look of Screws so thats the first one on the bench, Waiting for some spray paint from Brownells and than a week or two to cure(as suggested and appreciated) No hurry to finish one up, I know if i take the time to do it right it will be all good, and if i rush it will be all s**t, I really appreciate all the feedback GUNCO RULES
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  6. #46
    3/6 Infantry mtdew's Avatar
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    I started out with and continiue to use bent blanks. Other methods may be better but I'm sticking to what I know. I already had moto tool, and drill press made things much easier and accurate. I think the cheapest way is to find someone who has all the tools and has done several builds. I helped several people build there own and saved them big bucks. I wish I could have found someone when I started. But then I did find gunco after the first one. The second turned out much nicer because of gunco folks.
    "NA BEAN DON CHAT GUN LAMHAINN"
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  7. #47
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Yep, it flows forever and burns through gas too quickly!

    Mark

    Mark back when I got mine over 10 years ago I spoke to a technician at Lincoln abd he told me that a resistor could be solderd in to reduce the post flow. he also said it would void the warrenty. I never pursued it. It will drain a bottel pretty quick when doing spot to weld sheet metal together for examble 4 tack welds = 1 minute of flow 100 welds=25 minutes of flow.

    I had for a while a 110v solenoid valve in line with a switch on the foot pedal that turned the valve on and off I also had a 5 second delay on it. I used to do a lot of body work and it was nessacary or the bottle was always empty. the delay box faild eventualy and the valve started to leak so I quit using it. If I ever start doing more body work with it all build another one.

    but here in Las Vegas there is a great market for a well made gun
    Id be carefull selling a gun built on a homemade reciver its likely illeagle.

  8. #48
    Gunco Rookie Roodog's Avatar
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    New to the site as well as to building an AK. I'm wondering if it's possible to use a romy barrel assembly with a Chinese bolt and carrier? Also, has anyone ever tried using a pottery kiln to fully heat treat a receiver? I have access to one which can heat up to 2000 degrees. Seems like it would work. Am I folding an improved Tapco and wondering if I'm likely to distort it with a full heat treat. Thanks in advance.

  9. #49
    Gunco Rookie Roodog's Avatar
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    Default New to building

    Was wondering if it's possible to use a romy barrel assembly with a Chinese bolt and carrier in a Tapco receiver? Also, I have access to a pottery kiln that can reach 2000 degrees. I would think I could use it to fully heat treat the receiver. Any thoughts or concerns?

  10. #50
    Gunco Rookie Lock N' Load's Avatar
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    Good idea on the heat treat using the kiln. Or at least the annealing, with the totally controllable up and down temperature control.

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