It's a local expression, I was taught center drill but it's the same as a counter sink drill used for centering stock to be tuned on a lathe. Mcmaster Carr lists them as center drills also.
yes they are more accurate to start holes then finish with a regular drill
Tanvil yes you can use a regular flat and mod it (mainly for the stock area), but you'll have an extra hole on each side of the rear trunion area since the AMD's rear rivets are more up and down rather then front to back. You can see these holes in his pics above.
101 peeks and 10 thank yas. gunnysmith didn't make no money off that. He did it to help ya. So don't be afraid ta thank the man. :thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1:
I have been doing this for going on three years and this is the first post that have seen where someone uses center drills/ countersinks. I have always used them as there is nothing better for my building process.
Gunnysmith, those are some great pics of your building process. Everyone will learn something from your post and pics. Nice builds also.
I originally tried drilling the long rivets all the way through.
I found it easier to remove them in the method pictured.
It gives a solid punch point and "draws" the rest of the drilled rivet with it.
Tanvil yes you can use a regular flat and mod it (mainly for the stock area), but you'll have an extra hole on each side of the rear trunion area since the AMD's rear rivets are more up and down rather then front to back. You can see these holes in his pics above.
I originally tried drilling the long rivets all the way through.
I found it easier to remove them in the method pictured.
It gives a solid punch point and "draws" the rest of the drilled rivet with it.
That makes good sense. By doing it that way, maybe this knot and cut on the back of my left hand will finally heal. Everytime that darn punch slips, it gets me good.
That makes good sense. By doing it that way, maybe this knot and cut on the back of my left hand will finally heal. Everytime that darn punch slips, it gets me good.
What the hell is the secret to these long rivets? The drilling I got down. I bought AK-builders rivet jig. I bought AGIs rivet punch. I bought a BFH. We builders at my house can't seem to form the long rivet head correctley.
Is it us or does everyone have a problem with the darn long rivets?
I'm looking at your setup and we do the same but the darn things are bending before forming the head. What are we doing wrong?
Yours look :thumbup1: What is the secret?
What the hell is the secret to these long rivets? The drilling I got down. I bought AK-builders rivet jig. I bought AGIs rivet punch. I bought a BFH. We builders at my house can't seem to form the long rivet head correctley.
Is it us or does everyone have a problem with the darn long rivets?
I'm looking at your setup and we do the same but the darn things are bending before forming the head. What are we doing wrong?
Yours look :thumbup1: What is the secret?
Thank You. jiglith. E-mail on the way to plinkers. Man that thing looks nice. In defense of Curtis. His rivet jig has saved me hours of work. :thumbup1: I love it. Just a problem with those darn long rivets. I'm sure it's the way I'm setting it up. In other words I need all the help I can get to make it easier.
Oh God. If that Big Brown Box pulls in the driveway one more time I think the guy is gonna move in here and open a sub-station. Thanks for the tip. :thumbup1:
Tanvil your welcome. I have'nt seen any flats for the AMD65 either, I'm sure you know Nodak does have a AMD65 reciever, the only way to get one to look like it should is to get a flat with no trunion holes and cut your own.
Now I have a question. Anyone know where to get a rear sling swivel for a 65? The one I got has a missing tab.
What the hell is the secret to these long rivets? The drilling I got down. I bought AK-builders rivet jig. I bought AGIs rivet punch. I bought a BFH. We builders at my house can't seem to form the long rivet head correctley.
Is it us or does everyone have a problem with the darn long rivets?
I'm looking at your setup and we do the same but the darn things are bending before forming the head. What are we doing wrong?
Yours look :thumbup1: What is the secret?
4th Idvet, I found the missing link!!! I set mine up just as Gunnysmith told ya to. Press it, and SQUEEK, the reciever twists, the rivit bends, the press slips, my beer spills, the pit bull runs out of the shed with his tail between his legs cause i'm cussing out load. Before set-up, Slide the rivits in and measure the tail, some times you have to cut them. I haven't figured out the perfect lenth yet but I think plinker's data said .22( I could be wrong, I need to re-read it). For my last one I cut .22 and they seem to be a little smaller than the factory head, I thought I'd try .24 on the next one. Hope this helps. And Gunnysmith, did you trim yours first?
I'll go with a flat for mine. Gotta justify all that $$$ I spent on that jig. Btw, the jig is perfect. Thanks Curtis, bending is the ONLY stage that I haven't screwed something up.
4th Idvet, I found the missing link!!! I set mine up just as Gunnysmith told ya to. Press it, and SQUEEK, the reciever twists, the rivit bends, the press slips, my beer spills, the pit bull runs out of the shed with his tail between his legs cause i'm cussing out load. Before set-up, Slide the rivits in and measure the tail, some times you have to cut them. I haven't figured out the perfect lenth yet but I think plinker's data said .22( I could be wrong, I need to re-read it). For my last one I cut .22 and they seem to be a little smaller than the factory head, I thought I'd try .24 on the next one. Hope this helps. And Gunnysmith, did you trim yours first?
I didn't trim the rivets, they were from 1Pats group buy on gunsnet.
They appear to be the right length
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