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Thread: Keys to Achieving Good Spot Welds

  1. #21
    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    Still good info, especially from John Smith
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

  2. #22
    Gunco Regular allesennogwat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by texgal View Post
    If you really want to learn something,watch this guy!

    You may like it!

    Spot Welding Rails - YouTube
    Thanks I've saved the video to my computer. I've found it easiest to weld the non-ejector side first as that leave more room to fit the ejector rail and I don't have to work around the ejector to fit and weld the non-ejector side rail. Note on the video he mentions 15/64 inch (1/4 inch is 16/64 inch), I think is the old AGI rail spacing is 17/64 inch and the old pre-drilled Tapco rails come out to 19/64 inch. I like to leave a small gap between the rails and the front trunnion, about 0.020 inch to 0.040 inch. It prevents binding when assembling the receiver and may reduce stress on the rails. Also slightly angling the front, top edge of the rails at the trunnion with a small file may help the bolt move more smoothly. The Russian and Yugoslavian spot welds look like they are 6.0 mm in diameter. Some countries may use slightly mall diameter spot welding tips though. The European standards for spot welding sheet steel are 4.0 mm diameter for material less than 1.5 mm and 6.0 mm diameter for material over 1.5 mm. Some receivers may have 4.0 mm or non-standard 5.0 mm diameter spot welds but 6.0 mm looks like the Russian choice and the choice for Yugoslavian and RPK receivers.
    Last edited by allesennogwat; 03-24-2012 at 07:07 PM.

  3. #23
    GuncoHolic Tommo's Avatar
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    Thank you very much for all the great information!

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