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Thread: MY SONS SWITCH BARREL AK BUILD IDEAS

  1. #21
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    Gunco Irregular TRX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hcpookie View Post
    What are your thoughts on my idea for a PK-style smooth barrel and locking wedge?
    Some vintage cars held various bits with taper pins. The pin stuck completely through the part and was threaded and held in place with a nut. To remove the pin, you just loosened the nut, whacked it with a mallet, and the pin fell out.

    Taper pins and matching reamers are available easily. Cut some threads and rock on.

  2. #22
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Sorry I should have been more specific - not talking about a locking "wedge" rather a locking "dovetail" if you will. I found Ilya's pic in his Member Gallery:



    Note the dovetailed locking "piece" that slides left-right. It mates to the notch on the barrel (barrel is silver in the pic). The barrel slides back to the stop and this piece locks it into the correct headspaced position.

    The locking piece is supposed to be moved with the tip of a bullet (as it will probably be hot) and my thoughts are to add a long curved handle to one side of it so that you can pull down on the handle and since it is curved, it will force the wedge out sideways.
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  3. #23
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Do you need me to take measurements of my Uzi locking nut? Its in the back of the safe...

    I'm having second thoughts about the thread idea because the more I think about it, I wonder how are you going to thread the inside diameter of the trunion? I'm thinking you'll have to use a boring rod in the lathe chuck, and lock the trunion down on the tool post somehow to get it to reach.
    Im not looking to a UZI nut build at this time but if you ever have the gun out it would be nice to know the size and pitch.

    there are Taps avaliable in the remington thread as well as the small ring mauser thread. so it could be just done that way. Internal threads are cut all the time in a lathe you turn the part and the boring bar goes on the carriage. and runs off the feed screw just like cutting external threads. It might be a little tricky getting the trunon set up in a 4 jaw but im sure it can be done. a jig might be able to be made to old the trunin on a rod that might help. it was done on the 500 S&W build on a 410 sagai with voids in the bore so i know it can be threaded.

    the taperd pin wedge might be viable and I could run it through the old pin hole. the good thing about a tapered pin is as the threads wear from screwing and unscrewing the pin would still tighten the assembly together.

    Right now my plan is a barrel nut like a savage bolt action and Im even looking into what threads the savage takes as the nuts are avalaible. I like how a jam nut pulls the threads tight and also has a bearing surface against the reciver. its not going to work with standard hand guards and getting a gas tube to clear might be a little tight, so Im not ruleing out any thing I was thinking of a cam lock set up as well were ecentric cam with a lever would latch into the face of the trunion some how.
    likley to do this on a 23mm bore or bigger like Im Proposing is going to require some custom furniture it a jam nut is used, a normal threaded Ak barrel has a 1.175 flange so I know I can use a barrel nut with od of at least that big. Im planing to use a custom RSB so I can play with the max OD untill it starts hitting the carrier. Id kind of like to design it so it can be employed on a more traditional looking build as well

  4. #24
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I have some taps coming. I have thought about this more and its occured to me thaat the barrel/jam nut does not need to be the same ID at the trunion. I can reduce the barrel ID and use like a 7/8" nut for the lock nut threads. This is a good thing as on a Remington take off barrel the profile gets pretty small in a hurry and by the time I cut off a 30-06 chamber and re chamber to another calibur there is not much area left for one inch threads especialy if you are going to use a barrel nut. 7/8 for the lock nut will allow the for the Gas tube to clear. Interestingly enough reloading dies use 7/8" thread and there are some pretty cool locking nuts for them knureled with set screws to lock them in place and would be perfect for this. One less part to make. there are also nuts made to to have a spaner wrench that can be used that can be foun ad bearing houses and other industrial places. that will not take up a lot of room allow for fore grips and RSBs to be utalized.

    I am really thinking of Doing this to my 308 Saiga if It works on a standard gun a
    A 300 WSM loaded light with a rebated case would really kick the crap out of a 308 WIn the 280 remington would be a perfect barrel to screw in as well and the brass already fits the bolt. It would be nice to have a heavy barrel 22-250 for varmit hunting a 243 for antalope and small deer and a 300 WSM for beat, and might aswell do a big bore for elephants, a shot gun barrel is not impossable either. sucks you cant make a rifle into a pistol or You could do short barrel sets as well all in the same giant case. OH well

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    Always sore, always tired Bradrock's Avatar
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    I do not have the skill yet to open up the trunion on my lathe .Don't even have a four jaw chuck yet. But I have pondered using a three stone brake cylinder hone. They cost around ten dollars & are made for
    3/4" -1" holes

    Would there be an advantage to re-installing the barrel pin before boring & threading? just to fill the void. I thought of filing or dremiling most of the exposed pin in the bore before reaming/ honing.
    Also thought of threading the barrel pin holes for set screws from both sides would be less meat cut from barrel.( Beowolf)
    " Save a tree...........Eat A Beaver!"

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    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    1biggun,

    Rather than use a set-screw locking ring, check out Lyman's split-lock design: Lyman Split-Lock Die Locking Ring 7/8"-14 Thread - MidwayUSA
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

  7. #27
    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bradrock View Post
    I do not have the skill yet to open up the trunion on my lathe .Don't even have a four jaw chuck yet. But I have pondered using a three stone brake cylinder hone. They cost around ten dollars & are made for
    3/4" -1" holes

    Would there be an advantage to re-installing the barrel pin before boring & threading? just to fill the void. I thought of filing or dremiling most of the exposed pin in the bore before reaming/ honing.
    Also thought of threading the barrel pin holes for set screws from both sides would be less meat cut from barrel.( Beowolf)
    If you try the set screw idea, how about having the screws bear on a sliding pin, shaped to the contour of the barrel instead of directly onto the barrel itself.

    Maybe even have a v-point on the contoured end and a hardened pin, so that the set-screw forces the point into the barrel as you tighten the set screw.
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

  8. #28
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    1biggun,

    Rather than use a set-screw locking ring, check out Lyman's split-lock design: Lyman Split-Lock Die Locking Ring 7/8"-14 Thread - MidwayUSA
    this is exactly what I have in mind there are other styles as well. the only concern is getting it tight enough to the trunion to keep the barrel locked. I can mill some flats on it so I can use a wrench as well. a pair of these is a option as well locked together

    I got a pacakge today with some barrels so boys feast your eyes on these
    the first is a aftermarket high dollar krieger (so Im told) barrel that has been fluted and also has a very cool break it is currently in 300 WIN mag and ill have to rechamber it it has remington 700 threads is very light. this is a very nice barrel its almost a shame to make it a 300 savage and Im contemplating making it a 308 or 300 wsm on a MY sagia 308, but for know its going on the kids build. there is not enough material to rechamber and keep the remington thread diamiter so we will see how it all plays out.


    the other two barrels are Identical 260 remington factory SS barrels off of a model 7. the 7 is a light version of the 700 and these barrels are much lighter than a standard profile Remington 700 barrel bad for accuracy good for a 10 year old to carry (HE WILL CARRY HIS OWN RIFLE,MY RULES ). Interestingly the Gb will almost fit were it need to there will be very little work to profile this. the two AK style GBs are of of Saigas and are differant ODs and the L1A1 goes way back. Im wondering at what point i would have timing issues by moving the GB back. the further back the better balanced and easier to hande by a 10 year old. I also want adjustabe Gb so I can load light and shut of the gas, this is very important for teaching a kid to shot. plinker loads untill its game time. any way a little eye candy there is $350 worth of barrels here a really good deal IMOO . Im thinking stainless reciver BTW
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  9. #29
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I do not have the skill yet to open up the trunion on my lathe .Don't even have a four jaw chuck yet. But I have pondered using a three stone brake cylinder hone. They cost around ten dollars & are made for
    3/4" -1" holes

    Would there be an advantage to re-installing the barrel pin before boring & threading? just to fill the void. I thought of filing or dremiling most of the exposed pin in the bore before reaming/ honing.
    Also thought of threading the barrel pin holes for set screws from both sides would be less meat cut from barrel.( Beowolf)
    I plan on boring in a mill and then using the same set up and chuking in a tap. a four jaw would of course work. a drill bit would possably work also.

    But try this on I was saving it so my idea didnt get stolen, but since you asked. I happend to notice on my drill and tap guide poster that 22mm or .8661 is percisly the correct size for a M24x2,00 metric thread. BINGO!!! a AK 74 trunion is 22mm correct??? I know the Saiga trunion i have here is 22mm no drilling,boring or cutting. TA DAA You heard it here first the dies and tap are standard. I have no idea if they will hold up to the bolt thrust but they will work. the Sagia trunion I have is really light. I do know that Willie threaded his 410 Saiga in his 500 S&W conversion and it had voids fro the rivets and a barrel pin hole ect. the Saiga trunion I have is super light compared to the Yugo and may not be ideal for a 308, 260 or other heavy calibur build but would be perfect for 223, 5,45. 7.62x39 7.62x25 beowulf, socom ect and likley the 300 savage loaded slightly light. for a youth gun it may be the way I go. Im going to get a bunch of parts on the bench and then he and I will decide what he gets. Im still looking for a cheap 5,45 bolt or two. I should have bought him a AK 74 kit and sold off the AMD donner kit. Im starting to get excited about this build. may do a light weight youth build and a heavy duty high pressure build based on my 308 Saiga action

    Im not sure if its worth putting a pin in or not to thread Id be worried it might move and gall the threads or something.

    If I get this all ironed out and it goes well im considering offering a trunion threading service t off set the tooling costs. Im still liking the 1-1/16-16 remington 700 threads on Yugo for the 260,308, 243 ect evenif loaded light. It will of course work on lighter caliburs.

    Im thinking a 16" superlight x39 with a heavy x39 target/snipper barrel set on a standard kit would be the cats ass. might be able to get a 223 to work in the same mag well with some work
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  10. #30
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Ill cut a couple of these aluminum super light G3 mags down to 3 or 4 shot hunting mags and of course a few full size for target practice. He will likley not see Semi auto for a few more years at least not while hunting.

    I got a guy who is susposed to be a master at carbon fiber thinking about a pistolgrip stock and fore end BTW. the problem with light is the recoil so Im going to have to balance what he can carry and hold up with what he can handel recoil wise. I may add weight for target shooting and take it out for hunting, Untill I see how effective the breakis on a 300 savage I wont know. I havent rulled out a 243 or any calibur yet except likley the X39
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