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Thread: MY SONS SWITCH BARREL AK BUILD IDEAS

  1. #31
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    here is a standard profile 700 barrel next to the light weight m7 barrel Model 7 is much lighter 22" barel BTW
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  2. #32
    Gunco Regular Dirty Harry's Avatar
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    following this thread. Someone thinks like I do!
    Want to buy: Tantal Left and Right side selector parts.


    RRORC!
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  3. #33
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    HMMMMM the fluted barrel will not work well with a 7/8 barrel nut because I have to thread from the muzzel toward the breach for the smaller threads and the Od of the barrel is larger than 7/8" for quite a ways this would require me to turn almost half the barrel down and Im not willing to mess up a nice expensive barrel like this that much, so it will need a barrel nut the size of the trunion threads that can go on from the back. On a standard barrel its still a viable option. HMMMMMM This might end up being a 300 wsm on a Saiga 308 action or at least a 308 WIN.

    a custom nut can be made and i have seen some stuff on gocart axels as well that is cool ill figure it out

  4. #34
    Gunco Member GoMopar440's Avatar
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    Why does the nut have to start on from the muzzle end? You could thread the breech end just enough to fit the barrel in the trunnion plus some room for the nut in front of it. Then just thread the nut on first and screw the barrel into the trunnion. After you set your head space, tighten the nut against the trunnion. That way you're only threading a minimal portion of the barrel over the chamber and not out onto the flutes.

    Also, if you leave an unthreaded recessed shoulder on the front side of the nut you could hide the end of the threads on the barrel. Just make the ID of the shoulder a few thousandths larger than the OD of the uncut barrel just ahead of the threads. The fluting would still be intact and you'd also have no threads showing.

    EDIT: something like this...
    Last edited by GoMopar440; 01-07-2010 at 11:24 PM.

  5. #35
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    There's an article in the Dec 10 (14 if news stand) by Coffield where he makes a switchbarrel mauser using a savage type barrel nut. Its pretty much what GoMopar440 has posted. He used a die to extend the threads on the barrel for a barrel nut so he wouldn't have to time the lathe to the threads already on the barrels.

  6. #36
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    Why does the nut have to start on from the muzzle end?
    because on a remington take off like I want to use the thread size is 1 1/16 an after you put a nut on it you will be into the area were the gas tube needs to go with the nut. If I want to use a 1 1/16 tread for the trunion and a 7/8 for the the lock nut it has to go on from the muzzel end because 7/8's is smaller than 1 1/16". that means every thing from the muzzel to the 1 1/16" threads has to be smaller than 7/8" that means on the barrel I have Id have to turn almost 1/2 of it down. thats not going to happen On a $400 Krieger SS fluted barrel, Im keeping it as large a OD as possable to maintain accuracy and no way in hell Im turning half of it away.

    the other problem is if you use a Remington or other take off barrel and have to cut the chamber off to rechamber to someting else, on a standard profile by the time you make the cut there is not enough room for 1 1/16 threads to be long enough for a nut at the barrel OD is now to small that far forward. the option is turn off the 1 1/16 threads and go with a 1" thread size that is just slighly bigger than the trunion bore. I havent turned the treads off a Rem 700 barrel to see if there is still 1" Left after the threads are gone.

    I want to maintain the 1 1/16" thread size iff possable because all I have to do is turn the are past the threads down and then run a tap in on the original threads and just cut about 1" longer. A barrel nut on a 1 1/16 thread is going to be into a factory gas tube likely. I want to also be able to run heavy target barrels and 7/8" past the nut is to small.

    I can run a big barrel nut but Im trying to make this workable on a standard hand guard slightly modifed RSB builds as well.

    the other option is a 22mm trunion using 24mm threads and then there is more room for a nut. The down side is You dont have the stronger bulged Yugo trunion then for Higher pressure builds.

  7. #37
    Gunco Member GoMopar440's Avatar
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    It doesn't. Unless you're just a glutton for punishment. LOL!

    Seriously though. There is no reason I can think of for you to thread it on from the muzzle end.

  8. #38
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    It doesn't. Unless you're just a glutton for punishment. LOL!

    Seriously though. There is no reason I can think of for you to thread it on from the muzzle end.

    Ok lets try this again re read my post below



    because on a remington take off like I want to use the thread size is 1 1/16 an after you put a nut on it you will be into the area were the gas tube needs to go with the nut. If I want to use a 1 1/16 tread for the trunion and a 7/8 for the the lock nut it has to go on from the muzzel end because 7/8's is smaller than 1 1/16".


    NOW IF YOU HAVE SOME WAY TO GET A 7/8 TAP OVER A 1 1/16" THREADED BARREL STUB IM ALL EARS. SHORT OF A TWO PIECE DIE tHAT I HAVE NEVER SEEN AND A TWO PIECE NUT I CANT THINK OF A WAY TO DO IT. I CAN CUT THE TREADS ON A LATHE BUT iD STILL NEED A TWO PIECE NUT OR ONE END OF THE BARREL OR OTHER IS GOING TO NEED TO BE SMALLER THAN 7/8" TO SLIDE THE NUT ON .

    ITS KING OF LIKE THAT TOU WHE HAD WHEN WE WERE KIDS WERE WE STUCK ALL THE DIFFERANT SIZED AND SHAPED PARTS THROUGH THE CORRECT HOLE. THE BIG ROUND PART WOULD NOT FIT THROUGH THE SMALL ROUND HOLE



    If I want to use a 7/8 nut for the jam nut and the reciver thread is 1" or 1/1/6" your going to have one hell of a time getting a 7/8 tap over a 1" or bigger barrel stub.

    If I was using a nut the same size as the trunion threads then yes it will go on from the back.

    the problem with your picture is the barrel will get smaller after the trunion threads not bigger. especilay if you cut of the end and rechamber. I can barely get enough diamaiter for the trunion threads as it is. If you start with a blank or a heavy varmint barrel you can rechamber and extend the the threads of the same OD far enough forward for the nut. how ever the nut will be to big for a factoy gas tube and hand guards and will stick past the reciver.

    Im going to turn the threads off a Rem 700 barrel and see at what diamiter they clean up. If I can get 1" then Ill just cut the threads off all my barrel and go with a 1" thread and possably a 1" nut and let it ectend past the reciver I wont be using factory grips any way.


    in your picture the area maked unthreaed needs to be smaller OD then the threaded section. This nesatates putting the nut on from the front.

    If you use a 7/8 nut and a larger trunin thread every thing forward from the the jam nut threads must be smaller than 7/8"

    also if your using a 23mm trunion 1" is likely the smallest thread that will work. with a
    1 1/4" wide reciver that only leaves 1/16 if a inch if you want to keep the nut inside the reciver width. on a 1 1/6 thread its next to nothing. so that leaves out fctory hand guards. not to mention the nut will hit the Gas tube slot on the RSB.

    In the picture it shows how far Id have to turn the barrel down on a standard remington barrel to get the nut back to were it would work. also note were the slot for the Gas tube is in regards to the diamiter of a 1 1/16" barrel. On the fluted barrel I have (not pictured) the OD is even larger so id have to turn down almost half the length of the barrel to use a 7/8 nut.

    On a normal AK profile this is not a issue just reduce to 7/8 in front of the larger trunion threads and thread from the front. the barrel will allow the nut to go all the way back no problem it only a issue if you want a heaiver barrel Like I do on some of the barrels I want use.

    Im really hoping I can get 1" out of the barrels I have once the threads are cut off. the tap is cheaper as well.

    In a standard 7.62x39,223, 5,45 and some of the lower pressure rounds like possably the 300 savage or 444 rimless marlin were a non Yugo trunion is considerd safe a 22mm trunion is ideal as it should not require boring and should be able to be taped with a m24-2,00 thread and nut would clear better and you would also have more room on a stock take off barrel to thread as the the ID will be smaller meaning you can go further down the barrel before the OD is to small. It would be much easier to do. A 19mm trunion would be sweet if they were avaliable any were then a 23mm factory barrel could be threaded and employed as well.
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  9. #39
    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    I guess I'm missing something. The way I'm envisioning it I'd thread the nut onto the barrel at the breech end. Turn it on, advancing it toward the muzzle until it contacts the thread shoulder.

    Turn the barrel/nut combo into the threaded trunnion, advance/retreat until headspace is set, then tighten the nut against the trunnion. Re-check headspace and if still correct, make witness marks on trunnion and barrel for future headspacing and retiming.
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

  10. #40
    Gunco Member GoMopar440's Avatar
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    I see where youre coming from now. I missed the previous part about stepping the barrel with two different therad sizes.

    What about switching the barrel parts (RSB & GB) out with larger Yugo M72 pieces?

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