Page 7 of 12 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 70 of 115

Thread: MY SONS SWITCH BARREL AK BUILD IDEAS

  1. #61
    TRX
    TRX is online now
    Gunco Irregular TRX's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Central Arkansas
    Posts
    2,653
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    Doing it the old-fashioned way!

    If you use the .060 stock, you don't have to dink around with axis pin dimples or stepped top rails.

    Are you going to extend the RSB to the back, or splice together a longer top cover?

  2. #62
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    MSP area, MN
    Posts
    1,631
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    the 300 savaage barrel is chambered and profiled and the dies are here to reload as well as a factory crimp die just need brass.
    Why do a .300 savage? You could do a .308 and load light for it at first, then when your son gets a bit bigger he can use the higher power ammo if he wants. Or does the savage round have the same rim size as one of the other rounds you're doing, as that'd make sense then you don't gotta make another bolt.

    On placement of the gas block I'd put it in the AMD spot, it's a good compromise for keeping the weight to the rear, and having distance from the chamber to the gas port. I'd shorten the barrel a bit too, you could make it a lot lighter without losing too much performance, just go to around 18", but that's just a personal preference.

  3. #63
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    13,625
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    Why do a .300 savage? You could do a .308 and load light for it at first, then when your son gets a bit bigger he can use the higher power ammo if he wants. Or does the savage round have the same rim size as one of the other rounds you're doing, as that'd make sense then you don't gotta make another bolt.
    Im doing 300 savage because if a factory load was accidentaly fired it will still be a pretty safe pressure for a two lug AK trunion. 308 is over 60,000 psi SAMMI spec were the 300 savage is under 50,000. The 300 savage will do any thing the 308 can in the real world and it is a few grains less on the powder capacity so I can load rounds with maximised powder to case capicity and get good accuracy. I fear that it would be to easy for one of my hot 308 loads to find its way into his gun. the 308 wont chamber in a 300 barrel.

    I will be using a amd length tube but the GB will be custom or a L1A1 that will be adjustable and also shot off the gas completly. but I am going with keeping the barrel weight down and as far back as possable. My son is pretty small so this thing needs to be as light as possable. he will likely be shooting from a stand at 50 yards or less so the barrel can be pretty short. Im not looking for maximum accuracy here just pleanty of knock down power. IMOO the 7.62x39 is just a little to much on the light side and could use a extra 200-300 FPS and the 300 has exactly that or more. I am actuallu considering trying a 14" barrel with a perminate break. He will deffinatly need a break when practicing. I likely will put some lead shot in the stock for practice as well or even use a lead slead. I have untill october to get him up to speed.

    Im throwing together a 243 press in barrel build on a AMD 63 with fixed stock with normal saftey and stuff just to get all the bugs worked out of the G3 mag well and feeding ect. Im not sure i will have time to get the really custom gun for him done and it will be heavier as well. I have several really thin profile model 7 remington barrels one is in 260 remington in stainless and is really light.


    Ill be reloading 99% of the ammo fired in this gun . since I have the reamers im considering lengthening the neck and throat of the chamber so 7.62x51 brass can be formed with out havinng to trim the necks. factory 300 ammo would still fire but I can use cheaper surpluss brass that is thicker and not have to cut a 1/16" off each case.

    Doing it the old-fashioned way!

    If you use the .060 stock, you don't have to dink around with axis pin dimples or stepped top rails.

    Are you going to extend the RSB to the back, or splice together a longer top cover?
    yes and no on the old fasion way. yes in that Im using flat sheet metal no in that the gun will have a push button or thumb lever saftey, no mag demples, G3 type mag well, lower rails that will run down the entire reciver and add reinforcement, taperd to tight fit on lock up upper rails. custom sized pin holes that will use custom pins. possably a completly removable trigger group and guard ect. The standard flat would need to amn y mods to make work. better to start from scratch. I might taper the front like a Galil and the rear as well to allow more material around the web of a thumbhole stock.

    the flat pictured is .045 but I have some .060 flats just like it.

    I really dont need to move the trunion ahead if I loose the factory type mag latch and go with a G3 type well as the AK latch takes up close to 3/4" that a G3 wont need.
    I just made flats long for the hell of it so a can do a traditional mag latch build. G3 mags can be had for under a $1 so welding ligs on thim wont hurt any thing.

    as far as t he dust cover I have a few ideas. the RSB can be easly moved back but Im think more of a completly custom RSB that will extend way back and allow a rail to mounted directly on top of it. then cutting almost half the cover off. you can go quite a ways back with a RSB and still get the carrier in. This would end all the BS about trying to get a decent scope mount on a AK. it can be made in aluminum as well and ighten the gun up considerably. on the switch barrel it will ataach to the trunion and stay with the reciver when the barrel is removes so I only need one RSB not 15. i have 90% of it figured out not sure if it will go on his first gun. he may get a super light 243 for opening day instead and that will give me more time and hopefully more money to spend on the switch barrel design and custom touches. I have some really cool ides for the mag release and safety. stay tuned.

    Im considering building and selling a G3 mag well that would rivet or bolt in to a standard reciver with light mods possably with 308 length and ejector positon rails as well as possably bent blank reciver shells if there is any interest. maybe even barrels trunion and head spaced bolt combos. Im still thinking about it all. Need to get the gun done first. the 243 im doing will be more traditional but with a few light tweaks.

    here is some pics of a 300 savage with a 185 grain rn next to a wolf 308. as you can see the savage gives up very little and at one time was in the top 4 for Elk in the US in the early days. imagine that round with a longer neck and the Savage might even out do the 308 some mock ups of a G3 mag well also.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #64
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    13,625
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    a max load listed in my Win loading gide for the 300 SAV is a 150 grain bullet with 42 GR of 748 powder doing 2600 FPS with only 41,000 CUP. that is a 25 grain heavier bullet going at least 300 FPS faster at just slighty over he bolt thrust of a x39 round. that is a MAX load using WIN componets and likely about identical to a factory load. the 308 FS in the same book makes 250 FPS more BUT at 7,000 CUP more pressure. Im sure if the pressures were rasied in the 300 sav It would only be a about 50-100 FPS slower.

    IM MORE EXCITED ABOUT THE 243 IM BUILDING THAT WILL SEND 55 GRAIN VMAX BULLETS DOWN RANGE AT CLOSE TO 4000 fps AND THEN CAN ALSO SHOOT 105 GR A MAX AT AROUND 28,000 FPS. THIS WILL BE A FUN GUN FOR LOTS OF DIFFERANT APPLICATIONS.. PDOGS TO DEER. THE BARREL IS DONE FOR A PRESS BUILD.

    a 308 can be loaded using 307 Win recipes (they use the same dies) and be reasonably safe IMOO. 307 max loas with a 150 grain bullet will do 2305 FPS with only 34,000 CUP and be well under a x39 bolt hrust and still send a 150 down the pipe at the same speed as a X39.

    a good 300 sav kids load is a 110GR bullet doing 3000 FPS ( 700 fps fater than a x39 BTW) and only making 41,000 cup. that will give super flat trajectorys out to 300 yards and 110 grain will still be pleanty on a deer at those speeds, ask any 243 hunter.

    These are all Max loads out of a winchester book BTW and likely will need to be started at a reduced load. DONT USE ANY OF THIS INFO LOOK IT UP YOUR SELF. DONT USE ANY LOAD YOU SEE ON THE NET ULESS ITS FROM A POWDER COMPANY OR OTHER REPTUABLE SOURCE.

  5. #65
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    MSP area, MN
    Posts
    1,631
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    I am actually considering trying a 14" barrel with a permanent break. He will definitely need a break when practicing.
    What I'd do is a 16" if you're considering going that short already, and drill out some ports in the barrel if you really want a brake. I'll draw a simple picture for you to illustrate my idea.



    Making the barrel as short as you might and sticking a brake on it won't reduce weight much, but it will reduce "free" velocity. Though as with everything OTI it is just a suggestion.

    ETA: looking at my picture again it seems the counterbore/welded on brake would also reduce possible crown damage.

  6. #66
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    13,625
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    I considerd doing a magna port style brake, I have a dozen AMD brakes just figured Id use them. there heavy but they work well and look decent I was going to add a insert t.

    The 30 cal Kreiger barrel I have that is stainless and fluted has a very nice small OD break installed on it. Im saving that barrel for the perfect build.

    I have a tool that I designed that allows me to easly index the groves so I would not have to counter bore but i have the reamer if i need to. The kid is pretty small so I was thinking the short barrel would help him keep from dragging it on the ground.

    I can do a barrel really cheap since i have the reamer in 300SAV so making a bigger one down the road is not a biggie. On the screw build they will change out in about 2 minutes.

    I was entertaining the idea of aluminum for a break. seems like I have seen them used on some thing. Im not looking for long life here. I hoping for one shot from a tree stand LOL going light adds recoil so its a big balancing act for a 9 year old. I will have a 22-250 barrel ready if recoil is to much as well as a 243 and 260 barrel im sure something will work.

    I was looking at long eye reliefs scopes for it last weekend the Nikon omega is really nice and has 5" of relieaf its made for a black powder rifle 3x9 I think not cheap but not stupid prices. Im thinking of spring loaded stocks or possably a air spring in a tube. recoil is going to be a big issue for him I already know it. Ill have him shooting super light 30-06 loads ( 6 graind red dot) this weekend.

    Im not to concened about velocity loss to much as this will be designed for a 50 yard shot and even with a 14" barrel it will out do a x39 with a 18' barrel.

    There are some really cool carbon fiber tension barrel out there that are really light but there way to much money for this project.

    Its all up in the air at this point.

  7. #67
    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    MSP area, MN
    Posts
    1,631
    Feedback Score
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    Im thinking of spring loaded stocks or possably a air spring in a tube. recoil is going to be a big issue for him I already know it. Ill have him shooting super light 30-06 loads ( 6 graind red dot) this weekend.
    Recoil was a really big issue for me, probably because I went straight for the "big" calibers [second range trip with firearms ever]. Start him with the proposed .22-250 barrel and move up to the .243 when he feels comfortable, then up from there. Even after I realized recoil didn't hurt I still had my flinch, from the momentary "what the hell's going on, loud noise, I'm not in control" impulse, Starting with a lighter recoiling round probably would have lessened it, because I would have felt more in control...
    Quote Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
    Im not to concened about velocity loss to much as this will be designed for a 50 yard shot and even with a 14" barrel it will out do a x39 with a 18' barrel.
    18 foot barrel, even if it's a typo it's still good.

  8. #68
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    13,625
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    18 foot barrel, even if it's a typo it's still good.
    thats just for the pistol LOL OOPs.

    the 243 I profiled last night is 18" and the same profile as a AMDS 63 but longer.

    I likley throw a short stock on my 223 18 pound varmint build its deadly accurate and the big scope and light trigger will get his confidence up. I sarted out with a 30-06 with no pad when I was 12 and it used to beat the crap out of me. scope cut my eye damm near every time I shot a buck. Im going big on the port so light loads will cycle as well as being able to shut it off for the super light 6GR reddot bunny busters. I love shooting those things. I plan on having him shoot one shot at a time to get him used to loading it. He can barely pull the action open so a big round charging handel might help. Hes not very big but he is really smart so he will figure it out. he shoots the 22lr pretty well.

    im setting up the screw barrel with no bullet guide so I can also use x39 length rounds with a spacer for the mags and a differant bolt. I have a 17-223 reamer and a couple barrels that will make a fun kids round and it shoots 4000+ fps so you just put the + on the target and fire out to 300 yards and get hits.

    I can dial the 243 down a lot with 55 grain bullets and lighter loads. there are some pretty good youth loads on the hodgen website using slow powders. I dont shoot under 55 grain even with my 223. i suspose a 22-250 dialed down with 40 grainers would be even lighter. I cant wait until hes old enough to take praire dog hunting were he shoot a 1000 rounds

  9. #69
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Next door to my neighbors house in Michigan
    Posts
    3,164
    Feedback Score
    3 (100%)

    Default

    1Biggun, if you're putting a muzzle brake on your sons barrel to bring it up to 16", consider making a Levang type comp. They work pretty well to direct the muzzle blast down range on my 223 coyote gun. For a youngster it would be nice not to have all the muzzle blast frpm that short of a barrel which can make some people start flinching. I also don't think a custom levang style brake would be that hard to make either.

  10. #70
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    13,625
    Feedback Score
    14 (100%)

    Default

    good info on light hunting loads here

    http://www.hodgdon.com/PDF/Youth%20Loads.pdf

Page 7 of 12 FirstFirst ... 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ... LastLast

Search tags for this page

There are currently no search engine referrals.
Click on a term to search our site for related topics.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •