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Thread: problem headspacing ak74

  1. #11
    Gunco Regular Rikoshay's Avatar
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    Here's a tip somebody else gave me when I was having a hell of a time chasing the bolt gap on a Cetme build and the barrel kept jumping farther than I wanted.

    Put the barrel under pressure with whatever method you are using to press the barrel in, enough pressure that it is almost to the point of jumping.

    Give the top of your press a tap with a hammer, now recheck your headspace or bolt gap. It's worked beautifuly on the 3 other HK/Cetme builds that I've done and I can dial down bolt gap .001" at a time if needed.

  2. #12
    Gunco Member balls2elwall's Avatar
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    Wow guys thanks for all the responses 1biggun I'm doing a rivet build so I didn't want to buck rivets against the barrel. Sorry I haven't posted any pictures yet I didn't get home from work till almost 3 am and now I'm in class. I'm using the ak builder barrel press kit and tons of white lithium. I really like the feeler gauge idea I'm gonna try that and let you know. Thanks again guys

  3. #13
    GuncoHolic Sprat's Avatar
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    there is nothing wrong with bucking the rivets against the barrel, I used to cut a slit in to the end so it would spread out once hammered in.
    if the bolt and barrel/trunnion matched you had factory headspace

    sprat
    Sprat and sprat1 are one and the same.

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    GuncoHolic twa2471's Avatar
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    Just a titch of heat to the trunion and barrel in the freezer for a bit and that will get it to go much better without all the jumping too. Never like to grease for any pressing process, light oil OK, grease can sometimes make it worse .

    Just for the sake of comparison, Volvo marine outdrives have a bearing pack that has a crush washer and the opposing bearings have to be exact or there will be a major failure later, and if you go to far,, new crush ring and major dissasembly!! A pain!! just like head spacing. Heat is the only way to do those smoothly and have some control over depth. It's all about fenesie!!

    And as Rikoshay points out it works well on the Cetme's, and is the same method I've use on them too. Any tight fitting pressing process can be a bear to get just right sometimes, you just might have to just freeze the barrel, that sometimes is enough if you don't want to use heat on the trunion, other times you might need to do both on Real Tight,, stuff,all good methods to use. I wouldn't take any metal off though, keep it tight as possible! You'll be amased how well the hot outer part and cold inner part works, slides together smooth as butter and controlible.

  5. #15
    Gunco Member balls2elwall's Avatar
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    It works!!!!! A combination of the hammer and feeler gauges did the trick thank you so much guys

  6. #16
    GuncoHolic twa2471's Avatar
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    Life is good and all is well with the world again,,, YA!! Lots of good tricks and tips here,, balls2elwall.

  7. #17
    White Cracker 4thIDvet's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Bingo...

    Quote Originally Posted by Rikoshay View Post
    Here's a tip somebody else gave me when I was having a hell of a time chasing the bolt gap on a Cetme build and the barrel kept jumping farther than I wanted.

    Put the barrel under pressure with whatever method you are using to press the barrel in, enough pressure that it is almost to the point of jumping.

    Give the top of your press a tap with a hammer, now recheck your headspace or bolt gap. It's worked beautifuly on the 3 other HK/Cetme builds that I've done and I can dial down bolt gap .001" at a time if needed.
    What my Bro Rikoshay said.. Bingo..
    "Man needs but two things to survive alone in the woods. A blow up female doll and his trusty old AK-47" - Thomas Jefferson 1781


  8. #18
    No Hope For Me 1biggun's Avatar
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    I'm doing a rivet build so I didn't want to buck rivets against the barrel
    READ MY POST IT SAYS I PRESS THE BARREL SET THE HEAD SPACE REMOVE THE BARREL THEN RIVET IN THE TRUNION THEN SET THE BARREL TO ALIGN WITHT HE HOLE PREVIOUSLY DRILLED. YES ITS A TWO EXTRA STEPS BUT IF YOUR YOUSING A PRESS IT TAKES ABOUT 5 MIUNTES TO REPRESS THE BARREL IN. YOU CAN DO IT WITH THE TRUNION IN AN MOST DO BNUT THEN ITS A PAINT IF YOU GO TO FAR AN HAVE TO RESET UP.

    BTW I RECOMNED THE ALLTHREAD MEATHOD FOR DOING BARRELS ON .308 BORES IT GIVES MORE CONTROL IMO. YOU ARE DOING A 5.45 SO THE ALL TREAD WILL NOT FIT.

  9. #19
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you got it

    With the top cover thing, 4th mentioned the most common fix, it's just sheet metal and can be easily tweeked to fit.

    I've used Rikoshay's tip on stuck pins, you know the ones that you put a lot of pressure on and they still don't more, but on those you hit the press as hard as you can.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  10. #20
    Gunco Member balls2elwall's Avatar
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    thanks again everyone its such a relief that i can ask any dumb question I have about such a tremendously unique hobby and get such great answers. 1biggun sorry i misread your post i read it first on my Iphone. so next is drilling for barrel pins any suggestions or tips or warnings. I just got my 4mm bit in from ak builder.

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