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Thread: polish kit

  1. #21
    ************ Kevin_M4's Avatar
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    Here's a picture of the spacer I used in my folder.
    It's an easy way to fix as needed.


    the circled hole is a very helpful access for the pin extraction (this one is a bit too far outside)

  2. #22
    hotbarrel's Avatar
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    well the vote went with park it all, so I did. first thing I did was to remove the gas piston. Before I did anything i measured from the fromt of the carrier to the end of the piston, this way when I put in the new piston I can put it back to the same length. Next I drilled a little into one side of the pin, then used a punch to drive the pin out. took the fire pin out and then took out the extractor from the bolt. As advised to protect the springs. here are the parts degreased and ready to cook.
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 08-26-2006 at 11:20 PM.

  3. #23
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    cooking small parts in the kitchen
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 08-26-2006 at 11:20 PM.

  4. #24
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    the parts are all done and back togeather.
    Next thing to do is put in my new stainless piston
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 08-26-2006 at 11:20 PM.

  5. #25
    hotbarrel's Avatar
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    well now the new stainless steal gas piston is installed. this is a U.S. made part and on the list, so it goes to the parts count.
    here is what I did to re install the new piston, realy it is pretty easy.
    first I screw the new piston in and measure from the fromt of the carrier to the end of the piston. measure from the same places that I measured from before disasembaly and screw the piston in more or less to get the same length as originaly. I then put the piston in my drill press vise, with a piece of leather around it to avoid scratches. I drill down through the piston till it breaks through to the center then turn it over in the vise and repeat. this way I am shure to end up with the holes centered in the countersink's in the carrier. if you drill all the way through you will most likely be off center on the outward side.
    now for my favorite part, makeing a rivet. I often start with a finish nail to make my rivet from. I hammer forge the rivet with a few simple tools. {I think I will make a new thread for makeing a rivet}
    I hammer the head in tight with the other side protruding into a hole in the anvil. then I hammer the extended end very carefully to mushroom it over and till it fills up the countersink in the carrier. I want to hammer enough to get the rivet tight HOWEVER NOT so tight to tighten the carrier up against the piston threads. the piston is NOT supposed to be rigid to the carrier it should float a little. if I hammer the rivet too tight it will tighten the entire thing up togeather. also the rivet diameter must be a little less than the hole in the piston again so the piston can wiggle a bit.
    Now for final finish work I use a small file and file the rivet heads down flush. I know they are flush when I see the outline of the hole and it is round. If this done rite their will be allmost no damage to the finish of the carrier, go slow and carefull. I finaly just put a drop of blue on the ends and they disappear. new piston is now installed
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 03-11-2004 at 09:24 PM.

  6. #26
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    piston back in now and looking good you can see the circle of the rivet ready for a drop of blue . the rest of the light is reflection from my pos cammera
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 08-26-2006 at 11:20 PM.

  7. #27
    Gunco Member Cammer's Avatar
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    When you rivet the front trunion does the barrel have to be out? I don't have a front trunion bucking block so I was thinking that I could drop the rivets in place, then press the barrel into the trunion, then put the trunion/barrel assembly into the receiver, then squash the rivets using the barrel as the bucking block.

    Why wouldn't this work? I'm sure someone must have thought of it before. If it won't work then where can I get a cylindrical shaped bucking block?

  8. #28
    Chief Administrator 7.62x39's Avatar
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    Cammer,

    Although I have seen that method discussed before, I don't know of anybody who has actually done it successfully.

    You would not be able to reverse the rivets in the trunnion, there is not enough room inside for the head. You would have to press in the barrel, Then insert the rivets.

    The problem then is that you will not be able to insert the rivet all the way, and I think it will just mushroom outside the receiver when you try to peen it.

    I'm not crazy about the idea myself, but I can't say for sure that it is not do-able.

    I would either get a hold of a riveter, or use the screw method.

  9. #29
    Gunco Member Ugh!'s Avatar
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    Great info hotbarrel!

  10. #30
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cammer
    When you rivet the front trunion does the barrel have to be out? I don't have a front trunion bucking block so I was thinking that I could drop the rivets in place, then press the barrel into the trunion, then put the trunion/barrel assembly into the receiver, then squash the rivets using the barrel as the bucking block.

    Why wouldn't this work? I'm sure someone must have thought of it before. If it won't work then where can I get a cylindrical shaped bucking block?
    Well I played with this idea and IMO you'll have to really get a good crush to do the rivets correctly. Since the barrel is already *out* of the trunion, then it makes sense to do it the "normal" way w/ a custom bucking bar. YMMV. I do know that someone was bragging a few months (years?) ago about doing their Krinkov builds this way, with the barrel as the buck, and said it worked for them by using an air hammer to set the rivets, but *everyone* suggested that his builds were facing the possibility of premature failure. Its always nice to see the rivets after they are set, just to be sure they are set correctly Thus the need to remove the barrel first...

    Here are a few pics of my experiments:

    http://pookieweb.dyndns.org:61129/AK...barrelbuck.htm

    hth,
    - Jerry

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