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Thread: polish kit

  1. #41
    Gunco Member Cammer's Avatar
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    I took a look at my underfolder kit and compared it to my Vulcan receiver. I could be wrong, but it looks to me that a significant part of the logo is going to be obscured anyway.
    ?Now the revenue man wanted gran?daddy bad,
    He headed up the holler with ever?thing he had,
    It?s b?fore my time but I been told,
    He never came back from Copperhead Road??
    - Steve Earle

  2. #42
    Gunco Member ChrisAKG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cammer
    I took a look at my underfolder kit and compared it to my Vulcan receiver. I could be wrong, but it looks to me that a significant part of the logo is going to be obscured anyway.
    Logo or serial number? I don't think the logo matters but I would double check just in case.

  3. #43
    Gunco Member Cammer's Avatar
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    It's the logo. On the new Vulcan receivers the serial number has been moved to right side in front of the mag well. The logo is directly above the grip on the left side - very close to where a underfolder hinge assembly is installed.
    ?Now the revenue man wanted gran?daddy bad,
    He headed up the holler with ever?thing he had,
    It?s b?fore my time but I been told,
    He never came back from Copperhead Road??
    - Steve Earle

  4. #44
    hotbarrel's Avatar
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    A lot has happened this last few days so I will give the run down with as much detail I can. I will start with the rear trunion. I decided with the folder. this required the two lower forward reciever holes to be filled with weld. after they were filled I drilled the holes to match the new trunion.
    I decided NOT to drill a hole through the manufactors info this means I will have one long rivet and three short . you will see the fact that one side has 2 and the other side has 3 rivets. I believe this will be fine because the original tang had only two long rivets total. so I have one more point of rivet than the fixed stock. Also I used a countersink to all the holes just enough to allow me to use the rivets fron the group buy. thies rivets have a taper under the head so I put the rivet in the hole and then tapped them tight. this contoures the reciever into the trunion to make it even stronger. then I crushed the rivet down. The long rivet I like to hammer down not to press. one note here I put a steal rod between the sides of the trunion this is so I did not bend it down when tapping the rivets. I had to grind the rod to the exact length to fit between the trunion sides. after tapping the rivets tight I removed the rod. this method of countersinking and useing the correct rivets is very strong.
    now the front trunion.. two of the holes in the front reciever are allready countersunk and four are not. I used my countersink tool to clean up the factory work because it was uneven. testfitting the front trunion I find two holes have to be egged out just a bit for the rivet to go in. I started with the two rear rivets that are countersunk. again I put the rivet in then tap it down tight conforming the reciever to the trunion. then I crush the rivet down. the front four rivets I use no countersink. I allways like to start the rivet crush then stop, I remove the reciever from the press and tap the rivet in tight again. the rivet gets fatter as it gets shorter so after a littel bit of crush it will realy stay put if you tap it in tight.then finish the crush. I use my bucking bar for the riveting and fortunatly it worked for the rear too as I have never used it their before. this time my front trunion rivet pack came with two taper rivet and four standard rivets. it realy looks good now note the rear rivets in the photos two on one side ant three on the other. I can allways add the last one if I want later but I think it will stay as is
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 08-26-2006 at 11:20 PM.

  5. #45
    hotbarrel's Avatar
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    Apon inspection I notice that the rails do not line up exactly with the front trunion so I have to adjust them. through the mag hole I use a 1/4" punch and carefully lightly hammer them up to match the trunion. I make a gentle slope up to the trunion about half the rail is tweeked this way I have a smooth transition. You do not want to just bend up the last 1/2", if it is done properly carefully and smoothly you can not realy tell by looking. so far so good.... ... I did not want to refinish but after welding and sanding the weld smooth it looks like I have to refinish. Because their was a few sanding marks I decided to sand blast with glass bead.
    After blasting I put the reciever into the acid and cooked it. this is the very first time I was not satisfied with the phosphatizeing. I did it once then blasted again and recooked, it was better but not what I realy want. you can even see spots and lines in the photo. So now I think I will spray over the park. again I want oppinions of exactly what to spray, I want something that will last and not come off with gun cleaner. I realy want this gun nice so I need your input again and will go with the favorite vote again.
    thanks hotbarrel

  6. #46
    Gunco Regular sks_hunter's Avatar
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    hey, hotbarrel... how 'bout that gunkote stuff...
    super good stuff maybe this would be a good application for it...???
    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Sto...il.aspx?p=1150
    check it out...


    A thought just hit me as I was looking at this stuff....(this is why I am editing...)
    I wonder if you could use a couple of different colors, say matte black, the rusty brown, and the tan to make a camo-type design?
    Hmmmmmmm............
    Send Lawyers, Guns, and Money

  7. #47
    hotbarrel's Avatar
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    again today a lot has happened. first of all let me say the finish is still up for vote, I can tape off what I do not want to paint.
    the first thing I did today is press the barrel into the trunion. I sanded the bures off the barrel that formed when they pressed the barrel out. I used 200 grit and only did enough to remove the high spots. then I put a few drops of blue on the spots so they are not bare metal. next I did the same thing inside the trunion, light sand and blue. rember high spots ONLY. before pressing I sprayed some penitrating oil to the surfaces. before starting any pressing it is important to make shure the reciever and barrel are aligned, I do this by first put the barrel in by hand a bit then looking over the top of the trunion and down under the sight block. Their must be equil space on both sides. just sight them up and twist the barrel till both sides are even space between them. do not hammer ro force in the barrel at all prior to aligning or you will not be able to adjust by hand. If you do not do this the sight base will stop when it bumps into the trunion. take time get it exact the before pressing. The pressing went very well this time. it went in smooth, I think the oil realy paid off. see pics of my press it is a floor jack pressing the barrel up into the trunion. the trunion is supported by a steal plate lag bolted to the edje of my bench. see photos attached. I did my best with my cheapo cammera to get a photo that will be clear enough to show. one is full view and one is close enough to see the reciever.
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 08-26-2006 at 11:20 PM.

  8. #48
    hotbarrel's Avatar
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    the photos above have the holes for the folder done allready in it but actualy I did that after the pressing, I put it back in the press just for the photos. I drilled starter holes then finished up with a rotery file in a die grinder but a round file would work ok too.
    when the barrel was pressed in so the retaining pin hole is exactly lined up with the notch in the barrel I stopped pressing. I use a simple arbor press to press in the barrel pin. Again I lube it with oil before pressing. sorry I do not have enough hands to take photos wile pressing in the pin but I will put up a photo of the press just to show what was used. also a photo showing the holes for the rear stock. I was very happy to find I did not have to grind any of the manufactors stamp when installing the holes. man it is close I would not garentee all recievers would miss the stamp so check first
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 08-26-2006 at 11:20 PM.

  9. #49
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    I rivet the trigger guard on in the arbor press too. I push hard then hit the top of the press rack to crush the rivets. the trigger rivets do not need a bucking bar, they are a direct downward press. I use a 7/8" round about 2" tall and notck it out to fit around the rails and the center support rod, just grind out of the side what is in the way. place this rod on the rivet and bring down the press rack down onto it. as other rivets, start crush then make shure the rivet head is tight. give it a tap now if not. If the head is not tight and you finish the crush the rivet may have to be removed and redone.

    now we have a barreled reciever!!!! all the hard part is OVER.
    I put the folder togeather into the reciever, kind of a pian in the but to be honest.
    I put in the G2 trigger group.
    I put the bolt and carrier in and jacked it back and forth abouth a hundred times by hand. I had no oil when dooing this and the dry fresh park kind of fought me a bit but it did smooth out even dry.
    I put in the cylinder and upper hand guard then jacked it again about a hundred times now it feels very smooth. the G2 FCG resets nice.
    the lower hand guard had to be filed a bit ware it goes into the reciever. it was too tight at first and I could not get the retainer locked down. After a touch with the file the wood grip went all the way in and the retainer locked comfortably.

    here is what is left.
    1 check head space... I did not do this yet and I am hopeing it will be ok all the polish kits I have seen so far have head spaced ok however it is important to check anyway. so I will before I finish and fire it.
    2 drill tap screw and weld the US made break..
    I am takeing votes for the berak style all us made, do we want slant type that came with the kit or how about a break with two large slots in the side. I think it is just called AK styl. you decide and I will get it and put it on.
    3 put on the grip.
    Again choices for you all, here is what I have. US made black, US made laminated wood, standard polish red plastic, or a polish made plastic that is real dark drown.

    If the head space is ok I think that is it. test fire and any fine tune.
    the next photos will be of our finished gun :smile:
    please vote for your option choises!!!!
    Last edited by hotbarrel; 04-01-2004 at 02:58 AM.

  10. #50
    Visiting MOD DrugRunR's Avatar
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    go with slant break from global trades

    I have never seen a brown polish grip.


    CHARLES

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