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Thread: More photos--and VIDEO!--of ak-builder flats

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    Duke of Dook armed ferret's Avatar
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    Default More photos--and VIDEO!--of ak-builder flats

    Here's a few more photos of completed rifles built on ak-builder flats.

    Nothing short of actual european FA receivers could be closer to correct. At least that's this mustelid's opinion.

    Bulgarian Sidefolder:


    Polish Underfolder:


    Polish Tantal:


    And a video of the Tantal's left-side selector clicking away (although nonfunctional, it's a helluva lot better than other options for building them--oh wait, there aren't ):

    Tantal clicky clicky!

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    rbthntr64's Avatar
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    Thanks AF! Great Pics! I am glad to see some people are seeing the Quality Curtis has put into these. With in spec tooling, I believe these are the best flats that have ever been available. PERIOD!
    Freedom is not free. Some will perish to preserve it for the many. Just as our Forefathers did before us, we must take up the battle and not waver. Victory is our only option.

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    Gunco Veteran Lt762x39's Avatar
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    Talking

    A. Ferrat, cool stuff going on there; nice builds!!!!!!

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    Gunco Member dvanncvann's Avatar
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    Talking CURTIS IS AAA+++++

    I finished my bulgy sidefolder using ak- builder flat last night. All holes line up perfect,. All I had to do was a few light touches with a file on the stock button holes. Test firing tomorrow. Tantal is next. Total build time including demill.4 hrs.

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    Gunco Regular Tailgunner's Avatar
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    Icarus dropped by last week with a couple of the new AK-Builder flats. Looked really nice, the magwell, X and Y dimples (V dimple? bottom leg is missing) were obviously made with hi quality tooling. Only thing I saw I didn't like were the edges of the trigger cutout and top rail, both have a sort of saw toothed edge. They'll clean up easy enough, and wouldn't keep me from buying the flats.

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    Gunco Veteran ohmysac's Avatar
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    What could you do to make the left side selector functional? I'm confused about how it works and what it interacts with inside the receiver.

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    Stickerman's Avatar
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    The botoom "Y" on the flat for the trigger pin is a creation of Tapco which gets smashed when the flat is bent.

    I didn't get the die in time for the trigger opening, but it will be here on the next ones for a clean punch through. I was filing them by hand, but if that's the worst that can be said about these they are still better than any other flat that's out.

    Was there any trimming of the front of the receiver?
    Did you have to trim the mag catch or move the front trunnion forward in the receiver?
    Does the bolt hit the center support?
    Does the bolt carrier hang up on the hammer?
    http://www.ak-builder.com

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    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohmysac
    What could you do to make the left side selector functional? I'm confused about how it works and what it interacts with inside the receiver.
    Become a Class II manufacturer... The left selector switches between semi, full-auto, and burst. The right selector is safe and fire.

    There's a ratchet plate that slips into the left side of the receiver (conveniently locking the axis pins in place). The plate engages another ratchet on the hammer shaft, and a pin on the disconnector.

    In burst mode, the ratchet will click 3 times and then release the disconnector. This allows 3 rounds to fire with each squeeze of the trigger.

    When the switch is set to full-auto, The disconnector is locked out, the ratchet will not engage, and the rifle functions like a normal AK.

    In semi-mode, the ratchet will not engage, and the disconnector is unlocked. It will grab the hammer after every shot.

    Harlan has a thread with pics of the correctly assembled Tantal FCG:

    Tantal Fire Control System

    You can see the ratchet plate and the one on the hammer very clearly in the last 2 pics.

    For us non-manufacturers... The best bet is to remove the post from the selector. This prevents it from locking out any type of disconnector. Making a duplicate side plate (without the ratchet) would allow the axis pins to be locked in place, and the selector to be retained. Fit a G2 trigger group and enjoy the rifle.


    .
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    That which does not kill you, really really really hurts...



    Gunco Member #21

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    Gunco Regular Tailgunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stickerman
    The botoom "Y" on the flat for the trigger pin is a creation of Tapco which gets smashed when the flat is bent.

    I didn't get the die in time for the trigger opening, but it will be here on the next ones for a clean punch through. I was filing them by hand, but if that's the worst that can be said about these they are still better than any other flat that's out.
    I was going to argue about the "Y" stamping , I pulled the FCG from my WASR and checked all the pics Stottman took at the AK exhibit in Holland. The lower leg of the "Y" clearly runs downward till it's flattened on the bend line on the auto sear pin hole on both my WASR* and the com bloc recievers in Stomman's pics. The "I" on the selector side auto pin hole does the same.

    The trigger pin hole seems to be a "V", neither my WASR or the other combloc recievers have a visable bottom leg on the trigger pin hole. I did notice the "V" is either consistantly stamped too high on the reciever, or it's taller than the "X" or "Y" stampings. In almost all of the pics it runs nearly twice as far from the trigger pin as the hammer or auto sear pin, looks almost like bunny ears compared to the other two.

    The trigger hole cutout in the bottom of the reciever being rough struck me as odd, which is why I mentioned it. Glad to hear these will be smoothed going forwards. The top rail is a non-issue as they'll be cut to fit during the build. One thing not mentioned before I was very happy to see is the extra metal left for forming the top rails. My biggest gripe with all the flats I've seen before these was the outer edges being cut too close to finished size. It should be much easier to form the top rail using these flats, and no more difficult trimming them to size than on any other flat out there. A big for addressing this.

    *My WASR does not have an auto sear pin hole. (Just wanted to make that clear, wouldn't want anyone (i.e. the feds) to think the rifle was anything other than a fully legal, 922r compliant, semi-auto AK clone.) It does have a romanian made reciever, and it has the "Y" and "I" stampings where the auto sear pin hole would be. My assumption is all of the various stampings are formed in one operation, and the factory didn't bother remaking the tooling to exclude the auto sear "Y" when they're making WASR recievers.

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    Stickerman's Avatar
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    I really didn't want to mess with the dimples on the auto sear holes. That would mean more dies and the flats would cost more. They are already three times the cost of a Tapco flat.

    If a Class II manufacturer with the SOT wanted some then I would do it, but for the average builder I won't mess with the auto sear pin dimples.

    So the million dollar question is... is it better than a Tapco, Joeken (Eubanks, Hesse) or Nodak flat and rails?
    http://www.ak-builder.com

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