I just recentlly finished a beltfeed ak-47 base fire arm with a scratch built receiver, a MG-3 top cover/belt feed mechanism, FAL fcg, scratch built stock, grip frame & grips and forearm, k98 rear sight and m60 return spring. You can see photos of it on PHOTOBUCKET, search for 300 WSM FAL or SHARPSSHOOTER5090.
Thats an awesome build. I am a little puzzled about the recoil though. Would it lessen the recoil if You moved the vent hole on the gas tube forward a little to bleed off pressure at the rear of the piston stroke so that the carrier isn't slamming into the buffer as hard? I've never even looked at belt fed so I don't know what all is involed, but it seems logical? Maybe???
You are probably right. Right now the gas bleed off hole is right at the rear most travel of the bolt carrier. My 300WSM FAL has multipule gas relief holes in the gas tube and a sleeve that I can slide fore and aft to cover and uncover the holes. I think I will try your suggestion and do the same thing.
The other thing I think I will do is drill and tap a hole in the gas block that intersects the gas port. I can then put in a tapered screw and adjust the gas port hole area. You can buy a similar gas regulator block system for a Mini-14.
What is the inside width of your tubing? 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x .12 wall should fit. However, structrual tubing is no thiner than .12 but can be thicker per tubing ASME thickness specifications. I believe I had to very slightly machine the inside of my tubing a small amount to get the trunion to fit. It was only about .010 per side though.
Great build. Btw, do you need anybody to clean the inside of your gun safe? *wink*
No but really, its is awesome. Next time it would be cool to have a belt/magazine fed. Similar to the 249, but in 7.62. Two thumbs up. Next write the tutorial
This weekend, if I get done helping the wife paint my son's room (yuck I hate painting!), I plan to go out to the desert and make a video of it shooting which I will post.
A modification I made yesterday was to allow the beltfeed cover to swing farther forward when open so it stays open to load. Before, if you let go of the cover while loading a belt, the cover would fall down on you hand and hurt like He-l!
nice babe
thanks for the vidio man
but i like the muzel break in the pic rather than the one you put on it in the vidio
one more thing: isnt the ricoil too much for 7.62X39 ammo with that long barel?shouldnt it be less?
The recoil is excessive for a 7.62x39 especially in a 13 lb gun. But I think it from the bolt hitting the rear stop and not true recoil from the reaction of the bullet being accellerated down the barrel. I am going to drill a couple of gas relief holes in the gas tube about 1/2" forward of where they are now so the bolt is not pushed all the way to the rear before the gas is blead off. The booster cone on the front was put there to keep the gas pressure up to fully push the bolt all the way back. It is not need now that I have sealed all the gas leaks and the gun cycles fine with out it. I could put back one the L1A1 flash hider if I wanted.
Last night I moved the rear sight to the back of the feed cover and soldered a peep sight apeature to it to increase the sight radius and make it easier to see the front sight after each shot. The excessive recoil causes you to loose the sight picture easily with a blade and partridge slot type rear sight.
I think I will remove the booster cone and put the L1A1 flash hider back on as it now functions fine without the booster cone. That should lessen the recoil a bit. I am also going to drill some gas relief holes in the gas tube about 1/2" forward of the ones in the tube now. That should allow the bolt carrier to slow down a bit befor it hits the bolt stop/buffer.
I will post a picture of the modifications after I get them done.
i agree with shadow walker
a valve is a better way to go,for better troble shooting instead of jumping in to coclusion 1st,try it on before driling these relef hols which is a one way step,not to mention that your gun is a 1st experement that requiers allot of trieng and experements befor you get it tuned up to get the best of it
you may try different tention on your retention spring too,the impropper tention may cause nun stability of the gun i gues,i assume that you dont hav enoph tention.
well i concider myself not very good at it but i hope i got it right:wink:
Finally got around to removeing the booster cone and re-installed the L1A1 flash hider. Also, I drilled a gas relief hole about 1/2" farther forward of the current location. It made quite a differance in the apparent recoil. As soon as I get back out to the desert, I will take a long video of loading, charging and long rapid fire. Next, I want to try one of those 10/22 gatling gun trigger cranks that actuate the trigger 4 times per handle revolution and see how fast I can get it to cycle. Before that though, I need to open up the back of the ejection port. I might also install a longer buffer to limit the rear travel of the bolt carrier so the bolt doesn't out run the ejecting case. That might stop the ejected case from hitting the back the ejection port and occasionally bouncing back in.
Last week, Steve (from El Paso) (cntrailrider) stopped by and took measurements and pictures of the thing. He has a good start on building himself one.
Thanks for everything - visiting with you, and getting a closer look at your MG47 was a real privilage - I cut out my ejection port last night, and mine's coming along
I am a-building! Received a new Miller 'Econotig' today. I have been without gas for too long - my little non-gas MIG (HF) even did a few HK cocking tubes with aluminum foil to shield the splatter (at times it's taken 3 attempts) but where there's a will there's a way.
Sharpshooter - I have devised a way to make a 'bracket' to extend the the rear of the bolt carrier for mounting feed stud & recoil spring guide. An "L" shaped piece, mounted alongside the 'recoil spring tube' which runs back (behind the hammer arc) then goes up, with the top bent over in the rear. Screwed on the carrier (for adjustment, then welded) to mount the 'feed stud' on top of the bent-over back of the 'L'. Could not have done this without you leading the way - will keep you posted -
Plus, a bump to this thread. This is the slickest thing to come along since Doubletapme's 9mm drumfed, in my opinion
That sound like a good solution without having to mill a piece welded to the back of the bolt carrier like I did. I see no reason that shouldn't work fine. Glad to see that somebody can make use my lead.
Tom H
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