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Thread: MG47ES Belt feed

  1. #171
    Gunco Rookie hbs20's Avatar
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    Default more pics

    As or right now I have the original depressor spring in place.
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  2. #172
    Gunco Rookie hbs20's Avatar
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    Default last one

    I am using an AMD trunnion I have no idea if that would make a difference

  3. #173
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    bh
    You can bevel the cartridge guide a lot with out compromising the trunnion strength. I will post some pictures of mine so you can see how much I have beveled it. I will also post a picture of my cartridge depressor and feed tray modifcation. By opening up the slot in the feedtray allows the cartridge to sit lower so the bullet nose is below the cartridge guide. My feed tray is opened up enough so that the connecting springs of the links rest on the feed tray. Bending down the cartridge depressor tip guides the bullet below the cartridge guide. Having to TIG weld the tip back on, if done right, so you have complete penetration of your weld, should be no problem strength wise.
    Also, from what I can see in your pictures looks good although you are going to have to remove the portion of the left guide rail that is sticking down into the ejection port. Otherwise you are going to have ejection problems. Just leave enough for the cap screw above it to have a complete threaded hole.

    SS
    Last edited by SHARPSSHOOTER5090; 04-12-2009 at 05:57 PM.

  4. #174
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    bh
    It looks like you may have not narrowed the stripping lug on the bolt enough. This will also cause the cartridge and links to ride up high in the feed tray and not line up so the nose of the bullet is below the cartridge guide. The stripping lug should be narrowed so it is narrower than the gap in the links. Otherwise it will lift the cartridge and link up and cause the same problem.

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  5. #175
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    bh
    Here is some pictures of the feed ramp and how the cartridge & link set down in the feed tray slot. You can also see how the stripping lug of the bolt head has been narrowed. A good picture of this is in the tutorial. You may have to weld a small block to the top of the cartridge guide and blend a bevel into the guide to get it to deflect the cartridge down into the chamber depending on what your trunnion looks like. I did on this trunnion. If you do, a piece of 1/4" key stock works and just use minimal weld so you don't anneal the trunnion locking lug areas. You can see that the block is welded along the top and sides but the welds are away from the locking lugs. Don't weld the block to the top of the locking lugs. I also beveled and polished the top of the chamber a small amount to remove the sharp edge. Be sure you don't bevel into the chamber more than about 1/8" though.

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  6. #176
    Gunco Rookie hbs20's Avatar
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    Default thank you

    Thanks for the quick reply. I think that you are right on about the stripping lug now that you mention it. I must say it is amazing the work that you put into the tutorial and then to be so willing to help me now both you and cntrailrider are amazing people. I was worried that the slot that I had put in my feed tray was to wide but now I know that I am on the right track. I will probably add the piece of 1/4 inch than there will be no were else for the round to go except for in the chamber. Have a wonderful Easter all!!!

  7. #177
    Gunco Rookie hbs20's Avatar
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    Default IT WORKS!!!!!

    Well I trimmed the stripping lug, beveled the feed tray edges a bunch more and beveled the cartridge guide. My other problem was that I had the feed pawls in the wrong position causing the round to sit cocked in the feed tray instead of being in line with the chamber. It is the greatest feeling in the world to see that round get stripped out and see it fly out the front of the trunnion. I had a couple of other questions. For loading conventional MG such as the M249 SAW and M240 is bolt locked to rear open top cover place rounds against cartridge stop close cover. I do understand that both of these weapons fire from the open bolt. The reason for locking the bolt to the rear before loading thou is to insure that the feed stud on the bolt will line up with the feed guide rail. I realize that the MG47 fires from the closed bolt. So how do you go about loading it and maintain alignment between all moving parts. Also when using a standard AK barrel do you still make the bolt carrier extension 6.13 long? I have not purchased my barrel yet so I have no idea what the dimension for the gas block is. One last question what did you use to make the brass deflector? Thank you again for all of your time..

  8. #178
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    hb
    Leave the first 3 links empty and hook the first link on the little tab on the right side of the feedtray. Be sure that the feed cam is pushed all the way to the left and if your feed stud is right on center you should be able to close the top cover with the bolt forward and locked. Then pull the bolt all the way to the rear and release it. It should advance a cartridge into the slot in the feed tray part way on the rear stroke and the rest of the way on the forward stroke just before the stripping lug strips it from the belt and feeds it into the chamber. The bolt carrier should be the same length for a standard AK barrel or a RPK barrel. For a shorter barrel that has the gas block different than 10 1/2" from the face of the chamber to the shoulder that stops the gas block you will have to adjust the length as necessary. I made the brass deflector from a curved piece of 18 ga sheet and just soft soldered the radiused ends to it.

    SS
    Last edited by SHARPSSHOOTER5090; 04-13-2009 at 08:24 AM.

  9. #179
    Gunco Member cntrailrider's Avatar
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    HBS - Stay with it!! Lookin' good

  10. #180
    Gunco Rookie hbs20's Avatar
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    Default Gas Piston

    Well I finished turning my gas piston this evening. I wanted to use some Stainless Steel hydraulic tubing that had a thinner wall so I needed a larger piston. The piston is a little longer and larger of course. I hope that helps me out on down the road. I also threaded the inside of the piston so I could just screw it on instead of brazing.
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