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Thread: MG47ES Belt feed

  1. #71
    Gunco Member par0thead151's Avatar
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    amazing work. take your time on the tut as every detail helps us builders who need to have our hands guided like a preschooler
    in all honesty, this is by far the coolest build i have seen. I check this thread daily for updates

  2. #72
    Gunco Rookie dawg180's Avatar
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    So it looks like you pushed all the parts of the barrel including the handguard retainer and the rear sight base on the RPK barrel, then reinstalled the gas block in the 'normal' position and the front sight base inverted 180 degrees?

  3. #73
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    Every thing on the barrel is as it comes from the factory including the front trunnion (except the front sight) and is installed onto the receiver upside down. (trunnion, barrel, gas block, piston, gas tube, rear sight, upper and lower hand guards and retainer are all inverted). The front sight is install pointing up when everything else is pointing down. Rear sight is pointing down and is removed. A new rear sight arrangement is installed on the top cover or off of the back of the receiver. MG47 uses a K98 rear sight on the top cover and the ES version uses a SLME jungle carbine rear sight mounted on the rear receiver bridge.

    SS




    SS

  4. #74
    Gunco Rookie dawg180's Avatar
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    Cool, clever that you can keep everything and just flip or press of the front sight.

    So what is the approximate length of pull from the trigger to buttstock? Looks to be a good 15-16" Considered using an MG42 type buttstock?

  5. #75
    Gunco Member iNuhBaD's Avatar
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    Some have used MG-42 style stocks, and the Length of Pull depends upon several important contributing factors.
    1.) Receiver Length - which somewhat depends upon...
    2.) Bolt Carrier Extension Length - which somewhat depends upon...
    3.) Fire Control Group Location & Modifications - which somewhat depends upon...

    Really, the Length of Pull is going to vary depending upon how you build other areas of this weapon as nearly everything is interrelated to one another...

    SharpsShooter, Quick Question... My Trunion is 1.450" wide, and I can't get my bolt carrier rails cut down thin enough for it to fit into the receiver on the rail (like an AK build)...

    Do you think I should just cut the rails short, and align the trunion as best I can within the receiver (without being on the rails), measure to ensure it's perfectly straight, and then lock it into place? Or do you think I should create some extremely thin sheet metal shims with a slightly bent 'rail' to further help align the trunion? I'm not sure I need to have it on rails when bolting it to the receiver, but what did you do?

    This RPK-47 kit is REALLY messy and I've got to take more time cleaning the cosmoline off it, but it's in BEAUTIFUL shape! It's not a bulged trunion, but this sucker is WIDE! Wider than my other AK trunions are...

  6. #76
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    iNuhBaD
    On the ES I just cut the rails short but left a very small projection on the upper rail surface that just fit into the BC slot about 1/8" to assure that they lined up. I then adjusted the rear of the rail so it lied parallel to the top of the receiver. Shim the sides of the trunnion as required to fit snug between the inside of the receiver. Assuming that the inside dimension of your receiver is 1 1/2", use .025" thick shim on each side.

    SS

  7. #77
    Gunco Member iNuhBaD's Avatar
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    AWESOME! Thanks for the advice... That's a good idea to leave part of the rail on for fit (but cut down). With that, I can align the other end of the trunion, clamp it in place with the shims, and then it'll be good to go!

    I thought about doing what someone else mentioned and have the Ejector attached to the bottom of the feed tray, but when looking at things, I decided against this. With the lower 'J' area of the bolt carrier that holds the bolt centered - when dropping the feed tray straight down on top of the closed bolt/carrier, the ejector may not seat properly / deeply into the groove in the bolt, and may not eject right. I suppose I could ensure I have the bolt locked back when lifting the feed tray up to clear any malfunctions, but who wants to putz around with that headache? Not me.

    I'll just attach the ejector to the right side plate. Any particular sheet steel you used for your ejector? Or just typical sheet steel of the usual thickness (and then hardened with a blow torch)???

    I've got a looooooong way to go though!

  8. #78
    SHARPSSHOOTER5090 SHARPSSHOOTER5090's Avatar
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    The ejector need to be made out of at least 4130 or 4140. Steel with less than .03% carbon will not harden by just heat and quench. It must be case hardened. Just heating a piece of sheet you would by at Home Depot is most likely 1018/1020 or .018% to .02% carbon max and will not harden. Use an standard AK ejector, turn it upside down and mount it on the right side above the BC guide rail.

    SS

  9. #79
    Gunco Member iNuhBaD's Avatar
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    I don't know if a normal AK ejector will extend deep enough into the bolt / bolt face to eject rounds reliably... Could I buy an AK flat and cut the ejector rail shape out, bend it, attach it, and harden it (to make sure it'll reach all the way over into the ejector channel)? AK flats are made of 4130 or 4140, right? Just curious... Perhaps I'll just order a piece of 4140 or 4130 angle steel thin enough to fit the channel and extends far enough...

    Or else I can buy a thicker piece and mill/grind it thin enough to fit, and harden it...

    Thanks for the heads-up on that!

    -inuhbad

  10. #80
    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    iNuhBad, you can get a small piece sheet steel in differnt thicknesses from menards or home depot that is 4140 or 4130. I used the section on mine with the sticker to build some lower rails because the ones that came with one of my kits was too thin for me to weld. No need to cut up a good flat.

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