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Thread: AK.45 bolt revisted (and showing off my new camera)

  1. #1
    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    Default AK.45 bolt revisted (and showing off my new camera)

    Okay, I'd like some honest opinions on some machine work that I'm going to performing in the near future. I didn't get a chance over the Christmas weekend to get any machine work done.

    Basically I will be opening up an AK 7.62 bolt to fit a .45ACP case. The easiest method for this is to use a 0.500" end mill and just hog it out to the right depth. The bolt in the pic is screwed up because I trusted the marking on the plastic sleeve rather than measuring the actual tool. I grabbed an end mill that was marked 1/2" on the sleeve and turned out to be 17/32". Consequently, the bolt cup is 0.030" too big now. Nobody to blame but myself...

    I'm looking for suggestions for reshaping the extractor to line up with the new bolt cup.

    I have a dremel grinding stone that just happens to be 1/2" in diameter and thin enough to fit into the slot. Any suggestions on what other tooling would be available for this cut. Maybe a 1/2" x1/16" keyseat cutter? I can get them in carbide or TiN coated, so working on the heat treated part isn't an issue. It may be easier to anneal the extractor, machine the slot with a HS cutter (CHEAP!!!), and re-heat treat it.



    This pic shows the cup milled to an incorrect depth. The cup is about 0.030" too deep.

    For the firing pin, I'm just going to trim it down a bunch. Right now, without any intervention, the firing pin sticks through far enough to possibly slam fire a .45 cartridge. The pic shows the pin pushed all the way forward into the bolt. I will have to cut at least half of the exposed tip off to prevent it from punching through the primers.

    BTW, the camera is a Nikon Coolpix 5200. I bought it as a gift for myself this afternoon. The pic was taken at just under 2 inches away from the part. Plan on seeing more pics like this as the machine work gets further along...
    Last edited by Rhino_66; 12-12-2005 at 10:19 PM.
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    RIP Sangrun Hunter's Avatar
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    Nice pic! Since you and I live not too far from you, I will want to see that AK when you get it done. This interests me greatly.

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    Gunco Veteran WFO2's Avatar
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    I to have interest as the 45ACP is one of my favorite cal's....

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    Gunco Regular Oldgunner's Avatar
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    You might want to shorten that firing pin; it looks like it will pierce the primer. Good luck and keep us up to date on your work.
    "Moss Isley spaceport. You'll not find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy"
    (Actually this better describes Washington than Moss Isley)

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    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    The hole is in the wrong spot. Need a new hole!

    Would a dremel fit? A cut-off wheel could take that material off I think, assuming there's enough space there.

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    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    I already mentioned the firing pin issue. That one was a given considering how much I milled down into the cup.

    I do have a couple dremel fittings that will work for this. The problem will be holding the extractor. I can clamp it down through the pivot pin hole, but I'll just have to be careful when trimming it.

    I would like to use the keyseat cutter because I can clamp the extractor in the vise and work from the top. The Dremel option requires me to work from the bottom end of the piece. Even though the Dremel is easily maneuverable, I find more comfort in the the X,Y,Z axis controls of the mill.

    I think I'll just do the dremel thing and be done with it. There will be less setup required and I can check the fit without worrying about returning the piece to zero.

    Last edited by Rhino_66; 12-12-2005 at 10:20 PM.
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    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    I like the dremel idea.

    I will like to see the fit after you cut it down. Seems like the extractor will now be too far forward in relation to the cartridge. Then again not really sure...

    I'm thinking that IF that requires more work than enlarging that opening, we'll have to make a completely new extractor. Not a big project, but will need to use the mill to get it right. Then harden it up.

    , not sure Kasenit is a good idea here, because it adds a layer of material to the part, I think it could interfere with the fit of the extractor in the bolt. However if the clearance between the extractor and the bolt is loose enough, and the layer of Kasenit is thin enough, it would work.

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    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Thanks! Same to you, and to all!

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    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    You know I was looking at an AK-74 ejector and wondered - can you put a '74 ejector on a '47 kit? Wonder if, by mixing ejectors made for different calibers, if that would help matters?

    OTOH, this is a small part and seems that we could mill it by using a grade-8 bolt, and use the mill + dremel to fit it just right. Since it is such a small part, the mill may be too cumbersome, making a dremel job more suitable, even if you were to make 20 of them.

    Hrm now you got me wanting to go out to the garage! I *know* that with the proper drill bits and dremel attachments this could be built from a grade-8 bolt. Here's how I think it would be best to do it:
    1. Lathe or mill the shaft to the proper diameter
    2. Dremel the end to the proper shape for the ejector face
    3. Drill the pin holes
    4. Cut the notches
    5. Cut off the ejector to the proper length.

    Keeping it on the bolt until the end would give you something to clamp into the vise and chuck into the lathe jaws. A mill + file could be used if you had to, but a lathe would be faster. I've done the drill press + file for a quick lathe job, and found the oscillation of the press would always make you file off-center. Not a big deal for small parts so here it may be suitable. You just need a properly-sized shaft.

    What do you think about that?

  10. #10
    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    The 5.45 extractor is going to be a perfect fit for 7.62x25, 9x18, and 9mm. With the .45, I only need to grind (or mill) 0.020" deeper into the side of the notch to make the extractor match the 0.500" diameter of the new cup.

    There will literally only be a couple bumps with the rounded side of the stone required to get the bevel the way I want it.

    The amount of trimming is so slight, that I can't justify turning a new extractor. Of course, now that I've said that, I will probably screw up the extractor and have to fabricate a new one anyway. I do have a second extractor from the other bolt to work with, so I'm not worried.

    If I were going to consider producing these things (which I'm not), 11/32" round stock would be the easiest material to start with for the extractors. A 1/2"x1/16" keyseat cutter would be great for the groove and the pivot pin would need about a #28 hole. An 11/64" hole would be needed for the spring.

    With all the holiday stuff out of the way, I should have time to work on the bolt this coming weekend.

    Mounting the bolt in the carrier is a completely different story. I will need to build up some areas of the bolt to make attachment easier. TIG would be the easiest method to get the build-up needed. There's also a fair amount of welding needed on the carrier to close up some gaps. Once the parts are built up and remachined, they can be welded together.
    Last edited by Rhino_66; 01-09-2005 at 07:27 AM.
    The most damning evidence is the truth.

    That which does not kill you, really really really hurts...



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