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Thread: M70 milled build, 56k warning got some pics

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    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    Default M70 milled build, 56k warning got some pics

    I started with a milled yugo M70 frontend from APEX gunparts, after shipping it ended up at $100. I made the rear repair section. I made the sides out of 1/4" plate and the rear trunnion out of some 7/8" plate. I milled the rails in it and welded in the ejector. I welded the side plates to the rear trunnion, and then welded the bottom to the rear "half" After this I drilled the holes for the hammer and sear. I made the receiver too short, so I had to heavily modify the hammer and disconnector to clear the bolt carrier. I made the disconnector myself to add a US made part.

    I used a US made gas piston, receiver, magazine followers, a muzzle nut, and the disconnector I made to keep it at 8 or 9 foreign parts, I dunno the ATF's current position on rewelded milled receivers.

    The stock I'm going to use is an airsoft stock. I'll make a new mounting system for it. This might add another US part as it was converted from a non gun part to a gun part in the US, but I'm quite unsure if that is consistent across all the BATF agents, doesn't matter much anyways as with the 2 questionable parts added together it is 10 foreign parts worst case, so I would be just at the 10 allowable foreign parts.

    To be legal as far as my age is concerned I had my dad weld the rear end of the receiver to the front end. The rear half I made would only be around 40% IMO, but it would never be able to fire a round, so it wasn't a firearm in the BATF's mind. Once welded to the front the reciever was over 80%, actually at 100% as it would be able to fire a round. Mag wouldn't fit, but it'd fire a round dropped into the chamber. The legalities past 80% are fuzzy at best, so I had my dad mill out the welds that were in the way in the mag well and sand the outside welds flat.

    I forgot to take pics of the progress, so you'll have to deal with a picture of the near completed rifle.











    Holding it up for that last one was quite tough. Got a 16" barrel so right now it is just a huge pistol, soon the stock will come in the mail and I can throw it on there. Now all that is left is to weld up the pits left from all the older welding, grind it flat, sandblast it, and reblue it. Oh, and clean up the lightening cut that was all welded on on one side when I got the kit...

    I made the mag catch and the catch holder thing from milled stock, as I am terrible at stamping sheet metal. My dad figured out the overtravel stop for the mag latch, it is just a setscrew.

    To make the hammer clear the bolt carrier because it sits near 3/8" higher than normal I made it sit lower in the sear/trigger by taking off one of the sear "lugs" and filing the back of the other one where it contacts the side of the sear/trigger. I also made it much thinner [from the hammer face to the back of it], and made a new disconnector to hold it much lower than the old one would have.

    I was having trouble where the disconnector would let the carrier go back over it but not forward until you released the trigger, so it would go back and stay back until you released the trigger. Kinda cool thing to think about. It might dampen the forward stroke of cycling and batter the rounds less... Anyways, I filed off a lot of the top of the disconnector to fix this and now there would appear to be no trigger slap, and a very nice trigger pull, a bit long, and I can fix that, but really nice and smooth.

    ETA: Almost forgot, I used a metric pattern FAL grip for it, I had make an adapter to adapt it to the different screw angle but otherwise it seems to be quite stable and it has MUCH better ergonomics than the standard AK grip.

    ETA2: Looking at the pics I stupidly put the trigger 1/4" or so too high. LOL I could have easily avoided all the troubles, meh, the trouble increased my understanding of the trigger geometry so whatever... Maybe the lightened hammer will decrease lock time a bunch.

    ETA3: Forgot to specify that I'm using an airsoft gun AKS-74 folding stock, and adapting it to the rifle with a different trunnion on the stock. I'll probably do a spring loaded latch for latching it closed so I'll just have to pull on the stock to pop it open rather than pivoting a latch then pulling it open. Also soon the bolt handle will be swapped over to the left side, and I'll have to figure out a safety, maybe an AR15 type pattern...

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    White Cracker 4thIDvet's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Good Job..

    Good work. You put a lot of time and effort into it. Looks like a real AK to me.
    "Man needs but two things to survive alone in the woods. A blow up female doll and his trusty old AK-47" - Thomas Jefferson 1781


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    Gunco Veteran muttman's Avatar
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    [quote='[486];556782']













    ETA: Almost forgot, I used a metric pattern FAL grip for it, I had make an adapter to adapt it to the different screw angle but otherwise it seems to be quite stable and it has MUCH better ergonomics than the standard AK grip.

    quote]

    I have a spair non US grip and would like to use it on my pistol my Q is did you copy the fal grip stud?
    nice reweld BTW. muttman

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    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by muttman View Post
    I have a spair non US grip and would like to use it on my pistol my Q is did you copy the fal grip stud?
    Please don't quote the pics, they end up too dang big...

    Anyways, I drilled a hole through the place the oil bottle would normally be in the grip. Well, explaining it'll be hard so I'll mspaint you a picture.



    It shows the inside of the grip, sorta like a sectioned one, anyways, I drilled a new hole for the AK grip stud/a shortened bolt [I tapped the receiver to 1/4x20 for a better selection of mounting hardware] The original mounting hole that mounted the grip to an FAL lower was used to connect the adaptor to the grip, the space around the hole I drilled was really thin and the bolt head wouldn't fit against the side of the hole for the oil bottle.

    Anyways I countersunk an allen bolt into the original mounting hole and used that to hold the adapter to hold the grip attachment screw off of the bottom of the hole.

    I can tell I'm not making much sense, so just look at the picture and figure it out from there.

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    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Thanks for the pics
    I think you did great job on it, keep us posted.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

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    Gunco Veteran muttman's Avatar
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    486,
    oups on the photos.
    I see what you are making, bolt to hold the plate to the grip and a stud to the reciver. thanks. muttman

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    GuncoHolic 555th's Avatar
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    Have you fired it yet? I don't want to bash on your project cause I can see that you've done a lot of work and have came up with some original ideas, but the trigger hole looks high and the hammer hole looks low. I'd be afraid of doubling or even full auto. You might consider test firing it with only a couple rounds in the mag until your sure it won't go nuts on you.

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    Gunco Veteran [486]'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 555th View Post
    Have you fired it yet? I don't want to bash on your project cause I can see that you've done a lot of work and have came up with some original ideas, but the trigger hole looks high and the hammer hole looks low. I'd be afraid of doubling or even full auto. You might consider test firing it with only a couple rounds in the mag until your sure it won't go nuts on you.
    Haven't test fired it yet, but I have function tested it a few hundred times in the course of getting it to work, and not once did it drop the hammer accidentally. I know it cycles a lot more violently than I can cycle it by hand, so it isn't as reliable of a test...
    Thanks for pointing that out, I forgot about the angles of the sear surfaces, I fixed the disconnector surface's angle, but not the main sear. I'll look at it next time I'm working on it, maybe modify the angles a bit to make it a more secure "lockup".

    In other news I'm picking up the stock at 10 today [in 1 or so hours] so I'll be updating about it sometime this afternoon.

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    Stock finally got here...

    It is pretty nice, all steel and spot welded and all that, nice welds and a nice finish. It is about 1mm stamped sheetmetal. The hinge is 2 or 3 MM sheetmetal and nicely welded. The sling swivel is a joke, but whatever, I wasn't planning to use it anyways, it is on the wrong side...

    Some pics.






    Not bad for $30 with shipping.

  10. #10
    Happy Camper hcpookie's Avatar
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    Are those shoes 922 compliant?

    Actually that sling swivel *IS* on the correct side. Were it on the left side, you couldn't fold it closed.
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