Here was my winter time project. I like projects, 2 summers ago my project was my 1972 LEE camper restore project. And then there was my Norinco SKS project.
Now an AK47, specifically a Romey "G" AK47.
I got this from a fella on the another forum site. He had gotten it and was going to do the build then got uninterested, I think he told me, he was thinking of building an AR15 or something. He just lost interest in doing the AK build. He ruined his receiver when he tried to do a weld build. Luckly he didn't ruin the turrions. His receiver was warped out of shape due to him trying to heat treat it after trying to weld it to the turrions.
I told him that I would try and send him some pictures of it once I got it going. Now of course these are not action pictures of the progress just certain stages I have gotten it to so far.
The rifle has all matching serial numbers on the turion, bolt carrier, bolt and receiver cover.
The rifle has all the 922(r) compliant parts. He had already purchased the Tapco gas tube and fire control group (FCG) and pistol grip replacement. You know all the USA made parts that have to be used to replace all the foreign made parts. Of course we don't want to forget the receiver.
Here are a few stages of progress:
I knew I could do several builds and I chose the one that I knew I had everything to do it with. I knew I could do a rivet build since I removed the barrel, or I could do a weld build and lastly I could do the screw build. I knew the screw build is done when you don't want to remove the barrel. The only issue is that you can not drill all the way through on the front turion to remove the remaining part of the rivet, you have to be careful or you could drill into the chamber. Also, you have to use a bottom tap when threading the front 4 holes for the screws.
Luckily he had another flat but I had to get that flat bent. The flat had the holes for the fire control group (FCG), the selector and the trigger guard already punched into the flat. So if I screw up at least I can get another flat for 15 to 20 dollars from several websites.
This picture is of the receiver after I got the upper rails ground down enough to allow for the bolt carrier and bolt to fit and move up and down just by holding the receiver up or pointing the receiver down. Here all the FCG is in place, the front and rear turions, the stock, pistol grip, magazine, lower front forearm and the bolt carrier and bolt.
Some may notice that the inner rails are bolted in. Didn't have access to a spot welder to put the inner rails in and I had found a site on the web where a guy had done the screw build and also screwed the inner rails. When I get ready to put the inner rails in for the final time, his instructions are to coat the rail side with JB Weld and then run the screws through the receiver and rail. The JB Weld will squeeze and also get into threads of the screw and hold everything securely.
Once I had the barrel installed back and before I did the paint job I was planning on test firing the rifle. But several people told me that I should check the headspace first. So no test fire.
Here is a picture of the rifle still ruff since I have not got it painted yet and need to try and smooth out where the guy tried to remove the bluing or parkerized finish:
I did the heat treating on the receiver. I have a Mapp gas touch set that I bought at Lowes last summer to do some bracing work with. I will heat treat the FCG holes (4 of them) and I read on the build the guy done bolting in the rails to heat treat those holes as well as the rails.
I have a new (well used) laminant forearm and upper handguard. The guy who I got this from had broken the upper handguard into three pieces trying to get it off. Also, I sorta like the front pistol grip but I also do not care much for it and that is why I am changing that, but will keep the old one and redo the wood finish just incase I want to put it back on. I was able to glue the upper hand guard back together, but one small piece was missing, can't hardly notice it.
Oh, here is something else I like to do:
I did the same thing to a Norinco JW-15 22lr bolt action I have, but he buckle in it is a WV buckle. Here is a picture of it. Now of course this was my first attempt at this sort of thing. When the AK is done it should look great!
The only thing left to do is test fire. Keep your fingers crossed, and I will pray that I keep all my fingers. I will set this up on my gun rest and tie a string to the trigger and fire 3 to 4 rounds checking each time to see if everything is holding up. Probably won't test fire it for at least a few days to a week, making sure that the LocTite and JB Weld has plenty of time to cure. Also, I have a set of gauges comming in to check the headspace.
I heat treated the FCG holes and the inner rails, the holes for the inner rails and applied JB Weld to the rails when I reinstalled them.
After that I began doing the painting of all the metal parts. I have about 5 coats of paint on the parts, then after allowing final drying time, I baked all metal parts in the oven for 1 hour at 400 degrees, this was per a fellas instructions on his AK build.
While that was going on I used some wood filler to fix the area around the belt buckle where the dremel got away from me a little. I still have to find something to run around the buckle to cover up that spot. I applied polyurethane to the stock, 4 coats.
After everything had dried I started assembly, I used red LocTite on all remaining button head screws.
I have cycled three rounds out of the magazine through the rifle and that much works perfect. Now if it will fire without flying apart on me.
Here are a few pictures.
I was going to use Dupli-Color engine paint rated for 1200 degrees, but my favorite auto parts store (Autozone) doesn't sell that brand any more. They now sell Rust-O-Leum engine paint that is rated at 2000 degrees.
I put 5 coats on all the metal parts, allowing for drying times between coats. After the last coat dried I place all the metal parts on an oven rack, suspended by pieces of a coat hanger.
I turned the oven on and set the temperature at 400 degrees. I placed the rack with the parts in the oven for 1 hour. After that hour I allowed everything to cool and then I started assembly. The paint seems to do real well so far, but only time and shooting the rifle will tell how good the paint is.
Well now that I have the rifle completed I started looking on the net for 5 round magazines. Found some at Cheaper than Dirt (I think) and saw a lot of negative reveiws. Also, noticed that there were not many sites that sold 5 round or even 10 round magazines, a lot of 30, 40 and 75 round mags and also drums. I wanted to have some 5 rounds mags so I could take to the range and shoot without having that big long mag sticking out the bottom.
SO, I took one of the 8 - 30 round mags I had, did some measurements and pulled out the dremel tool and got started. About 4 of the 8 mags that I have has some rust on them, so I took the worst of the 4 to do this little project.
It works like a charm. I loaded it up with 5 rounds, went out side and cycled all 5 rounds through the rifle. Still haven't shot it yet. Going to get a set of go - no-go gauges unless I can find someone who has a set that I can borrow long enough to check the headspace. The way the rifle is working when cycling the rounds I think it is going to be okay, but I guess it is better to check and make absolutely positive that the headspace is good.
Since these pictures I have sanded and painted the 5 round magazine.
I guess it goes to show you just can't keep a good ole WV mountaineer down.