How about this Russian red, look OK? - Page 2
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Thread: How about this Russian red, look OK?

  1. #11
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    I like it

    But if your trying to get an actual military look, it's too red, the Russian red is more of an orange'ish red.
    I'll see if I can get a pic or two of a couple Mosins that are like that.
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  2. #12
    Gunco Good ole boy 2ndAmendican's Avatar
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    My not be perfectly correct, but I think it looks great Ash. Definitely a pretty red.
    Enforcement, NOT Amnesty!!!!!!

    "If they’re going to come here illegally, apply for & receive assistance through a corrupted Government agency encouraging this lawless behavior, work under the table & send billions of dollars each year back to their families in Mexico, while bleeding local economies dry, protest in our streets waving their Mexican flags DEMANDING rights, while I have to press ’1′ for English, then they need to be shipped back to where they came from!" -Chad Miller

  3. #13
    Gunco Regular Johnny 5.56's Avatar
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    Nice work!

  4. #14
    Gunco Maniac twa2471's Avatar
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    If any of you guys do allot of stocks, get a D/A 5"or 6" palm sander, air is best, vareible speed for sure, and let me tell ya what, you can get those old beater stocks better than they ever were new. There's allot of meat on mil style stocks and with one of these and a little smoothing of the rabbits with a file you can get some incredible fitting results. You can shave off a >1 lb easy too, so be carefull around trigger guard area,sling mounting areas and tang areas. Wipe down with "prep sol" sand with max 180grit to get the nasty and gouges off, and finish with 320-400, 320 on laminated, for the finish sanding. Don't go much lower grit though it will be hard to get good penitration of the stain and varnish if you do. Go nice and easy,no force needed. I don't have them any more but I've done up allot of stocks in all kinds of configurations. One was a high relief skull inside of a Dragonov type stock on a custom 7.62x 54 Dragonov and a skelton fist bursting through the lower hand guard, one of my buddies did the skull and arm with one of those patern tracing rigs you see in the gun mags, and I did the finish. It was the coolist thing I'd ever seen, it came out sweet. I wanted to get one of the machines after seeing what it could do, but the bits would KILL you to get what you need to do everything, especally for the high relief stuff, WOW, like a grand, for bits alone!! When you use the sander make sure to keep the RPM's low, not so low that it dosn't do a random pattern but high enough to keep the sander from "catching/grabbing" and be aware of the angle of the pad, ALMOST flat is important, and keep it moving at all times. Try an old board and cut out a stock shape and try it out first, this will get you used to sanding the angles. After a short time you'll see what I mean about the speed, some times you have to change up the speed for angles and flat areas, you just want to let it float across the surface with no pressure on the sander, you'll feel it when it's working right,you won't have to fight it and it will just glide along. Even the electric's work very well too, but must be variable speed, I've got both, air's best. This will save you boys allot of work and let you do 3-4 stocks a day, with the right materials, if you want to. And it's awsome for doing inlays and end caps with, it makes blending different woods together easy. I agree on the red, a bit to much red I've used the red mahogny and darkened it a bit with ebony and it is real close to that Russian color, it's a hard color to get just right. Hope some of my methods work for you guys.

  5. #15
    Where's my lathe? ashhoe's Avatar
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    My point was, and is, I did this for nothing and should have been no time.
    I used zip strip which took everything off.
    I bleached it in pool shock at a crazy high mix, which did nothing (it was dry before the bleach and after dry again it was the same).
    I sanded it for about 30 seconds 'till I realized it would take serious power tools to get the gouges out.
    I brushed RIT scarlet red fabric dye on with a brush untill it was covered completely and played one match of black opps online with my son, then wiped it with a rag to get the excess off.
    I smeared birchwood casey true oil (?) on with blue nitrile gloves and played another match online. I hit them each (3 coats total) with a wad of 0000 steel wool which did nothing but maybe give a little grab for the next coat and that's it.
    Seemed like it was too easy and turned out too good for almost no effort. It was pretty bad to start with, chips and scratches and gouges and cuts and fading and scrapes and all that. Now it's like a red mirror from 3 feet away, go figure.
    Whatever site I read it on as a members tag line, it's the truest statement ever made.
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  6. #16
    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Well my comment about the "millitary red" was a question and a comment in one, I still like how it came out. And after you just explained it, it sounds better yet, you didn't seem to put much effort into it.



    I sanded it for about 30 seconds 'till I realized it would take serious power tools to get the gouges out.
    Now I don't know if this would work on a laminate or not? But this works on solid wood stocks. Put a cloth like a t-shirt over the gouged/dented area and apply steam from an clothes iron on the gouge/dent, this raises or swells the wood and when it dries sand it back into shape.



    OH yeah, Black Ops
    "Government is not the solution to our problem, government is the problem" Ronald Reagan

  7. #17
    Gunco Maniac twa2471's Avatar
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    The steaming method works well to get dents out. Just be real carefull on laminated woods,a little bit at a time and don't get the wood to hot or wet you'll get delamination as some of these glues they use are a bit heat sensitive. I messed one up pretty bad one time doing this, I was lucky and was able to get the edge to lay back down, but it was close. The Russian stocks seem to be more prone to the glue melting/ letting loose, from the heat, or that's what I've run into. For real though if you have a bud that works in a body shop try the DA sander you'll be able to get faster and better results without using any strippers as some of these strippers will effect the glue too. If you have to use strippers try to stick with marine type strippers as they tend not to attack the glue as much. And best of all you can put 15-20 mins. into a stock sanding and it's ready for finish, ya can't get much faster than that. 20 mins. sanding, 10 mins per coat of stain, 5 mins. per coat of 2 part catilized varnish. I've done stocks in less than 2 hours and had them ready to reinstall and use in <5 hrs, and that's for a super nice finish. Less for a "stock" type mat finish about 3 hours tops. Now that's not bad at all, when you guys try this method you'll never go back to the "old days" of stock refinishing, for real. "TRY IT YOU'LL LIKE IT"

  8. #18
    Gunco Rookie Randy803's Avatar
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    That looks real good to me. I like that red tint!

  9. #19
    Gunco Rookie BashyMcNasty's Avatar
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    Gotta love the deep red.

  10. #20
    Gunco Rookie azeem111's Avatar
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    I love that finish. The color is great. Nice job.

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