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Thread: Need direction... parking kit... blithering idiots

  1. #1
    Gunco Veteran SA58's Avatar
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    Default Need direction... parking kit... blithering idiots

    I just picked up a dark manganese kit from Shooters Solutions. I know nothing about parking... shoulda known when I couldn't find explicit 'how to' directions on their website. The directions they sent with the kit look as though it were written by a lunatic... some sentences just don't make any sense.

    SO... lemme see if I have this straight, from those of you who've done it before...

    I need to prepare the reciever by sandblasting, or acid bath?? Acid bath? It said something about Naval Jelly and then something illegible about 'being careful' with it... metal removal... etc.

    I haven't got a blaster. The naval jelly method. What is it.. what do you do.. and how well does it work? You leave the jelly on it for... how long? What's it supposed to do? Rinse that stuff off, keep it clean and free of oils and then it's okay to park, right? Is that correct? Anybody ever do it that way? I'm assuming the blaster is a better way to go, but I really didn't count on having to dish out $$ for one just to park a reciever.

    The parking itself, if I understand this correctly...
    I mix the correct amount of solution with the correct amount of distilled water, put in a non-ferrous container and bring up to 180-200 degrees (but don't boil) suspend my item for anywhere from 5 minutes to 45 minutes (??? as per instructions??) until desired effect or stops fizzing? Rinse it off, hose it down, wipe it down.. with the water displacing oil... coat it with a good oil and that's that, mattress man... correct??

    Two pages of instructions and it still wasn't crystal. Spend $50 and hire a damned copywriter for gods sake!!

  2. #2
    RIP Sangrun Hunter's Avatar
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    Phosphoric accid is what is in Naval Jelly. I would go to the automotive paint supply place in your town and get a product called metal prep.

    It is a liquid phosphoric acid and it is used to prep stripped steel for painting on cars. You can use it in a spray bottle and it has directions on dilluting it with the appropriate amount of water. It's cheaper, faster, and better than naval jelly IMHO.

    On the rest, I cannot help you yet. My Dad is bringing me a 26 inch stainless pan this weekend for parking and then I will have questions too.

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    Gunco Veteran SA58's Avatar
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    How long do you leave it on? It it just for degreasing or what's it supposed to do?

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    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    You really need to blast the parts with aluminum oxide or blasting sand. also they need to be thouroughly degreased. I did a tutorial on parking, it is in the library here.

  5. #5
    RIP Sangrun Hunter's Avatar
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    Yes, parking really should be blasted because it allows the park to get a griop on the metal. .

    On the acid, it works immediately and it is for etching the metal. It doesn't really degrease. You need to spray it with a brake cleaner or other solvent that is designed to not leave oily deposits behind like a Denatured Alcohol or Acetone.

  6. #6
    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    All I've ever used is the stuff Brownells sells and it works well. All park solutions are similar, just manganese or zinc dissolved in phosphoric acid, so once they are mixed the instructions are similar.

    I always blast my parts, you can buy a cheap blaster at Wally World for $12 or so and a bag of play sand for $2. Wear a respirater, sand in your lungs is bad news. Ghetto blast cabinet = large cardboard box with armholes cut in front and a old piece of window glass laid on top. Long sleeve shirt and leather work gloves. Degrease the parts first with something like carb or brake cleaner and blast away.

    Once degreased and blasted, the parts are clean and can be dropped directly into the heated park solution. An old stainless steel pot works well for smaller stuff. Bbls and rifle actions will require a long tank or you can constantly dip and pour the solution over a bbl standing vertical in the pot in a pinch. 180-190 degrees heat is usually recommended. Once the part is submerged, it will fizz as the phosphate coating is deposited. After the fizzing stops the part is parked. Remove and rinse, WD40 makes a good initial oil as it will displace the water. Lay on old newspapers to soak up excess WD40, then coat with normal gun oil. If you are going to paint over the park, do not oil it after the rinse, just let it dry.

    Very simple procedure, the complete Brownell's instructions are below. Other than specific mixing instructions, the rest should work for your particular brand. Note also they tend to recommend you use cleaning products they sell. As long as you used a degreaser prior to blasting, don't touch the freshly blasted surface with your hands, and go directly from blaster to solution tank you can get by without the hot cleaner and rinse steps.

    http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/Gen...arkerizing.pdf

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    Friend of MCMXI Preacher's Avatar
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    You will like the results of the manganese kit from Shooter Soultions. We have used this kit for several rifles. And by using distilled water, you can use it over again. Just store in an airtight container.
    You only have the rights you are willing to fight for.
    I Like 1911's.

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    Gunco Veteran SA58's Avatar
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    Very cool guys, thanks.

    Now I noticed that Shooters Solutions kit says it doesn't require a pre-blackener?? I noticed in that tutorial a pre-blackener was used. Is this something I need, or don't I need it with that particular kit??

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    Duke of Dook armed ferret's Avatar
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    if one were to use the parking for just a few receivers, would it be necessary to get a "whole" kit or would one of the "half" kits be okay?

  10. #10
    Administrator pirate56's Avatar
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    They claim thhat the solution will produce an even color on different parts, but it doesn't. for an even color use the preblack.

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