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Thread: -Tung oil or polyurithane?-

  1. #1
    Gunco Regular shadow29483's Avatar
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    Question -Tung oil or polyurithane?-

    I've just finished the staining for my handguards and stock, But I'm debating on weather to use the "minwax" tung oil or the "minwax" Spar-urithane.
    I've used the Spar in the past and it provides a long lasting durable finish.
    But I'm thinking of trying something new. The color of the stock itself is somewhat of a russian red, And I want to use something that looks original.
    How long does it take to get a high luster finish with the "Tung oil"?
    And is it very durable? I guess I'm juhst looking for a 2nd opinion.
    Thanks....Shadow

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    GuncoHolic scubadvr's Avatar
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    I have used used tung oil and really like the way it turns out. It is extremely easy to use. I generally hit the would with 004 steel wool in between coats, and apply 4-5 coats. Jack
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    Master Endmill Breaker Rhino_66's Avatar
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    With the Tung oil, put on several thin coats and steel wool between. I got a really nice finish by putting the last coat on fairly thick and then kept rotating the part. By rotating it, the oil won't run and you can get a really deep shine. You can get sags by doing this, though. I just turned the TV on in my kitchen and kept the part moving. Eventually the oil will tack up enough that it won't run. I used the Ace Hardware High Gloss brand for my parts.

    The good thing about Tung oil is that you can easily steel wool and reapply it if you get a scratch.

    You can thin Tung oil with mineral spirits. I used a little mineral spirits on a cheap brush to feather out a sag in one of my 74 buttstocks. I wasn't paying attention and the oil sagged. While it was still wet, I brushed over the whole stock with a little bit of the thinner. It came out OK, but I'm going to do another coat. At least I didn't have to sand the sag out of it...

    I may try spraying the oil with my airbrush. It may take too much mineral spirits to get it thin enough, though. If you thin it too much it will develop a whitish color.

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    Gunco Regular Trotsky's Avatar
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    There is more to this....

    I've used both Spar and Tung. The choice depends on what I want that rifle to do....

    Tung gives a MUCH nicer appearance. But I would go thru a swamp with it. Spar is a little glossy, but the wood ends up dead ass waterproof (if it's done RIGHT).

    So... first? Consider the function you are aiming for....

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    Gunco Regular Thanatos's Avatar
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    I use linseed oil and I really like the look of it. Linseed seems to bring out the character of the wood, and my M39's wood had lots of nice character to enhance. But on the other hand if I were doing my "daily shooter" AK, I would probably go with the poly.
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    Gunco Regular shadow29483's Avatar
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    How fast does the tung oil dry in between coats?

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    GuncoHolic scubadvr's Avatar
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    It depends on the application. First coat generally needs 24 hours to harden. I then rub the remaining coats in. (apply, wait 10-15 minutes, then rub off...if it is too hard or tacky I add a little more to help disolve) The more applications, the more the shine.
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    Gunco Veteran eldogg's Avatar
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    i like formby's low gloss tung oil. it gives it just enough shine without that high gloss laquer [? i can't spell] look.
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    Gunco Member qbeanie's Avatar
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    You can have two different finishes with Tung Oil Finish. You can apply with 0000 steel wool and get a matt finish or apply with a rag and get a gloss finish.Buffing between coats helps with thenext applications and really brings the grain out. Tung oil will not darken like boiled lineseed oil. I prefer the matt finish on military style rifles. THis link is a great source of info on stock refinishing, including the correct shellac finish on soviet arms.

    http://p077.ezboard.com/fparallaxscu...rmsforumsfrm34

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