Thanks for the recipe. Have you tried this yourself?
(got this off falfiles.com i think)
ZINC PHOSPHATE PARKERIZING
Phosphoric acid can be bought as a primer for bare metal. It is sold under the names Ospho, Metal Prep, Ph-ospho-ric, and Jasco Prep and Prime, and is a greenish liquid. Take 4 pennies, dated 1990 or later and drill small holes in them. Heat up 8 oz. of the phosphoric acid in a microwaveable beaker or cup. Drop the zinc disks (pennies) into the hot phosphoric acid. The pennies will start fizzing and leave them in for about 5 minutes. Remove the pennies from the acid. SLOWLY transfer the liquid acid solution to a stainless steel container already containing 24 ozs of distilled water, and heat the solution up close to 190 degrees fahrenheit. Add whatever steel object you want to parkerize and wait 10 ? 20 minutes, depending on the type of coating you are after. Experiment for different results.
NOTE: ALWAYS add acid to water, not water to acid, in order to prevent serious injury!
Brand Names ? approx. cost $15/gallon:
Ospho, Metal Prep, Ph-ospho-ric, Jasco Prep and Prime, Concrete Etching
Note: i used Klean Strip Phosphoric Plus. the finish came out light gery (like colt grey) then i go over it with cold blue to get the finish as dark as i need it.
Thanks for the recipe. Have you tried this yourself?
Well I guess this is a good spot to add my home brew park solution. I live in the desert so we don't have the metal prep solutions at Home Depot like many of you have. We do have a lot of concrete. I bought a gallon of Behr Concrete Etching. The MSDS shows it to be between 30 and 60% phosphoric acid. I am after the black park so I use manganese dioxide. I bought 10 pounds of this stuff off the Internet from a clay pottery store. Seems they use it in some sort of finish. I have since discovered that it can be easily harvested from an alkaline battery. It is the black outside ring. The inside ring is some sort of zinc. (it may be useful for the zinc park but I have not yet tried it. The other two things you will need are 0000 steel wool pads and water. I have good quality water here in my home with <2 grams per liter solids so I can use it. If you have hard water, use distilled.
Always add acid to water. Do it before you heat the water.
I have a 5 gallon stainless steel turkey frier that I do my mixing in. I start with 3 gallons of water and add 3 cups of the Behr Concrete Etching. After it starts getting hot but not boiling, I add 3 table spoons of the manganese dioxide. I bring the solution up to a slow boil and then drop in 1 - 0000 steel wool pad. It is best if you have de-greased the steel wool pad. (I spay mine with 409 and rinse it out real good. Don't use a Brillo pad) I keep stirring until the steel wool is completely dissolved. I let this solution stand HOT for 30 minutes. Keep it hot but not boiling. You are wanting it to settle out.
I then fill a hose with water (from a faucet) and keep my finger over one end of it. I put the open end in the park solution close to but not on the bottom. (we are wanting to leave the sediments in the original container.) I then put the other end of the hose with my finger over the end, into my park tank and remove my finger. It will start siphoning to the lower tank. (DO NOT EVER SUCK ON THIS HOSE TO GET THE SIPHON STARTED! USE THE METHOD DESCRIBED ABOVE!) Fill your park tank to the desired level and then just lift the hose to let it drain back into the mixing tank. Allow the mixing tank to cool.
Heat up your Stainless Steel park tank to 190 - 200 degrees. Put your cleaned, and degreased parts into the park solution. Most steels will start bubbling. When the bubbling stops the park job is finished. Harder steels take longer to park than softer steels.
I have a 3rd bucket with a good soap in it. I use a little bit of concentrated degreaser in the bucket. (The degrease is BASIC so it will neutralize the ACIDIC parkerizing solution) I dip in this solution to neutralize then rinse with fresh water. After the fresh water rinse, I put them on my propane grill to dry all the moisture out of the crooks and crannies.
When they are dry (and hot) I spray them down with a good oil of your choice. I like to use a good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench. It has a tendency to get back in the tight spots. WD40 is a water displacing (wd40 stand for water dispacing 40th formula. Took them a while to get it to work.) but it has a tendency to get gummy over a period of time.
Sonic1954, have you tried the battery manganese yet, and do you have any pictures of your finished product? I'm about out of the gallon of park I bought from palmetto enterprises and am curious how dark your parkerizing turns out. thanks.
yeah me too. i hope its really dark. lmao, now hurry up and get home and get busy.
(yes im talking to him on the phone as i type this. ..slmao)
yes, it seems to work well.Originally Posted by yosuthnmasa
I've heard of the battery trick, from what I've been told they need to be alkyline type.
Why not add a valve to your mix tank a few inches up from the bottom.This would eliminate the hose step ( hate syphoning......Can still taste the gas from trying to get enough out of the old mans car for a night of cruising.....serves me right, and gas was only 48 cents a gal.) Next build I'll try the home brew battery-steel wool mix, Then alittle ceramic paint. Good info guy's!
I have NOT tried it with the battery. It does have to be an alkaline. I have tried and used the bought manganes dioxide. I may try the battery on my next batch.
I do keep my park solution and re-use it. Some people say it will not come back but I have not had any problems.
Attached is a pic of my latest project that I parked this weekend.
hmmmmm, and i was thinking man your wife picked out a nice couch. call me when you get time.
You guy's are killing me!! Everytime I talk myself out of a pistol build Somebody has to post a super cool hand cannon!! Sonic1954 did you do your barrel and gas block work? Is that pic rail added to the dust cover?dang it! I got to order a rusty rommy kit from DPH........ Better get a couple...