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Thread: Prep-work before blueing or parkerizing?

  1. #1
    Gunco Regular Dirty Harry's Avatar
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    Default Prep-work before blueing or parkerizing?

    I've finally been able to get to the kits ready to be riveted! After many months of posting ?'s and digging for info I'm ready to build (almost)! The question I have now is probably less complicated than I'm making it! I have a few Romy G kits that I'm educating myself with on the ins and outs of bending and riveting and I want to replicate the finish on the receiver by parking. After I get comfortable, I'll build my M90's and learn about blueing! The parking method I intend to use will be based upon Pirate56's parking tutorial.......
    DIY Parkerizing Part 1 , blueing will follow these guidlines Anyone tried home blueing ! I'm using the two methods because they appear to be viable lower cost alternatives to what the Pros say you must do!

    I want to parkerize; what should be done to which parts before and/or after assembly? Same question for blueing?! Is anyone concerned with bare metal on/between the front/rear trunnion, trigger guard and receiver? Does the parkerizing or blueing solution work its way in between the assembled parts? Should/can the parts be parked or blued before assembly the re-parked to cover the rivets after assembly? What can be done; if at all, to preserve the original finish of the trunnions and trigger guard? I apologize for all the questions but I would like to do it as close to factory the first time and then adapt from that point of origin!
    Last edited by Dirty Harry; 01-15-2008 at 04:42 PM.
    Want to buy: Tantal Left and Right side selector parts.


    RRORC!
    I'm no sheep!

  2. #2
    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    "Factory Original" is generally parked after assembly, trunnions riveted in place. The receiver remnants removed from original used kits reveal bare metal between the receiver and trunnion, often with light rust. Consequently many people park their receiver shell and attachable parts before assembly, then redo it after riveting. Bbl in or out is dependant on whether your container is long enough.

    Preserving the original finish? Why? I'd rather have a nice modern finish than whatever cheap paint the factory used.

    Prep for park is essentially disassemble as far as possible without removing pressed on parts, removing springs and anything the abrasive will stick in or jam up. Degrease and blast clean, degrease again if needed and dunk. If you are re-doing the park after assembly and not painting over it, wait to oil it up until finished.

    As for blueing, check out Valmet's Rust Blue thread over on the AKFiles, he is getting great results. A bit labor intensive but the results are phenominal!

  3. #3
    Gunco Regular Dirty Harry's Avatar
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    no paint intended! I just want to learn parking and blueing! What modern finishes are you referring to? I've wandered away from the files but I guess I should visit from time to time! Did you get my PM reply about New Year's Eve?
    Want to buy: Tantal Left and Right side selector parts.


    RRORC!
    I'm no sheep!

  4. #4
    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    Yep, got your PM. "Modern finish" = Gunkote, Duracoat, Molyresin, etc. Parkerizing is the ultimate "primer coat" under these finishes, the pores of the coating absorb the paint. The thermosetting finishes like Guncote are very durable, about the only way to remove them is abrasive blasting. The OEM paint on most AKs is easily removed with solvent.

  5. #5
    Gunco Regular Dirty Harry's Avatar
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    I remember seeing something about using a park as a basecoat....... thanks kernelkrink!
    Want to buy: Tantal Left and Right side selector parts.


    RRORC!
    I'm no sheep!

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