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Thread: Automotive Clear Coat for Wood Furniture

  1. #1
    Gunco Member leopold stotch's Avatar
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    Default Automotive Clear Coat for Wood Furniture

    As anyone ever tried or considered using two part (2k) automotive clear coat as a top coat on stained wood furniture? I look at some of the finishes on modern sporting rifles and am almost certain that this is what a lot of them are using for their clear finish coat. I think a little de-glossing agent mixed in with some automotive clear coat would make a very good wearing finish coat on a stock. It is much harder than polyureathane or traditional varnish.

    Anyone actually ever tried this? If so, do you have any pictures you could post?

    Thanks,

    LS

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    Gunco Good ole boy tanvil's Avatar
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    Dura coat IS automotive paint. Sherwin Williams if I'm not mistaken. It holds up quite well and is very easy to apply with no baking needed.

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    Gunco Member bigwheeler's Avatar
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    I owned a bodyshop and my guns got sprayed right along with fenders and doors.
    Most clears today are polyurethanes and other than watching for reducers causing
    lift in wood fillers and such they work great. I think the price will shock you though. You be hard pressed to find any of the top makers selling it in small
    quantities. You may be able to buy what you need from a shop owner directly
    though. But don't be shocked or pissed when he gives you the price. upwards
    of three hundred a gallon is not considered expensive anymore.

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    Gunco Member leopold stotch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigwheeler View Post
    I owned a bodyshop and my guns got sprayed right along with fenders and doors.
    Most clears today are polyurethanes and other than watching for reducers causing
    lift in wood fillers and such they work great. I think the price will shock you though. You be hard pressed to find any of the top makers selling it in small
    quantities. You may be able to buy what you need from a shop owner directly
    though. But don't be shocked or pissed when he gives you the price. upwards
    of three hundred a gallon is not considered expensive anymore.
    So you are saying that you painted a stained wood stock with the same clear coat as would be used in a BC/CC system? Do you have any pictures you could post?

    What I'm looking for is a hard durable finish coat for wood stocks that looks like the satin/slightly matte finish you see on modern sporting rifles. How close did your result come to this type of finish? Can you add a de-gloss agent to CC to make it more satin or would you just want to do a finish sand with a very fine paper or maybe a very fine steel wool?

    Thanks for the info.

  5. #5
    Gunco Member bigwheeler's Avatar
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    Satin finishes in automotive paints are had by adding what amounts to talc.
    It's not very hardy for the paint and definitely takes some life out of it. It
    sounds like some true oil is the kind of finish you are looking for. I would
    suggest using a wood hardener on most of the ak stuff I have seen. It's
    pretty soft as far as gun woods go. Then apply your stain and oil. I don't like
    the white look that fillers leave in the grain so I just keep applying topcoat
    until I fill the grain. True oil knocks down really nice with steel wool. you
    apply it with your finger so it's a really economical product to use. I am
    going to try an airbrush the next time I use it as getting a run with it is
    fairly easy and I always bust through trying to sand them out all the way.

  6. #6
    Gunco Member leopold stotch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigwheeler View Post
    Satin finishes in automotive paints are had by adding what amounts to talc.
    It's not very hardy for the paint and definitely takes some life out of it. It
    sounds like some true oil is the kind of finish you are looking for. I would
    suggest using a wood hardener on most of the ak stuff I have seen. It's
    pretty soft as far as gun woods go. Then apply your stain and oil. I don't like
    the white look that fillers leave in the grain so I just keep applying topcoat
    until I fill the grain. True oil knocks down really nice with steel wool. you
    apply it with your finger so it's a really economical product to use. I am
    going to try an airbrush the next time I use it as getting a run with it is
    fairly easy and I always bust through trying to sand them out all the way.
    Thanks for the info. I won't be using a "real" laminated AK stock. I plan on using a solid walnut stock that is basically the same dimensions as a real Russian stock, just much better and harder wood. Where would I find True Oil?

    Thanks,
    LS

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    Gunco Member bigwheeler's Avatar
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    It's a gun product made by birchwood casey. All of our gun stores around here
    carry it. Comes in about a 4 ounce bottle which will do many guns. Hang on
    a minute I am going to upload a couple of photos of a little 1940 rem 22 done
    in true oil and knocked down to a satin finish.

  8. #8
    Gunco Member bigwheeler's Avatar
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    Default true oil

    here's the true oil finish, This is the kind of wood that winchester and remington
    used to paint over. go figure
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Gunco Member leopold stotch's Avatar
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    That's beautiful, exactly the look I am wanting. What did you knock it down with, 0000 steel wool? Did you have to use anything to fill the pores?

  10. #10
    Gunco Member bigwheeler's Avatar
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    Fine steel wool to knock it down, There is a minwax wood hardener that acts as
    a filler also and minwax american walnut stain. I like walnut with a slight reddish
    hue so when the wood requires I add a touch of mahogany stain to obtain it if
    the wood is too brownish grey. I have never done a really high dollar piece of
    walnut so trying to bring out the grains and tiger striping is always most important. Not staining end grains really keeps an even tone to the finish. blend
    with a semi dry stain cloth around them. Sometimes they will really go dark with just a touch of stain.

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