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Thread: cracked stock repair?

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    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    Default cracked stock repair?

    One of the suomi stocks I got from Copes came with the stock cracked. Its a clean crack and appears that it happened in shipping so no oil or dirt has been worked into the crack or anything. I'd like to repair it as best as I can because its a refinished early stock with the sling swivel and not the sling bar like the post war versions. It even looks like the gun had been shot enough to slightly char the wood near the magwell. Once repaired the stock isn't under a lot of stress and is well supported by the receiver in this location. Its only when the stock is off of the receiver that its easily broken.
    My question for you C&R guys out there is what is going to be the best glue to use for a 70 year old stock and what pre and post prep work should be done to assure a good bond? Here's a pic. The crack runs fron the top front of the stock to the start of the stock tang where it stops.
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    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    Super glue (the thin, runny kind you can get at hobby shops) or urethane glue.

    Be aware that super glue can ooze out so needs to be applied with care, and that urethane (gorilla) glue WILL ooze out. As long as the urethane glue is still "wet" you can remove the ooze with a wet rag.

    If it were mine, I'd go for the super glue (cyanoacrylate) glue. I've done several WWII rifle handguard cracks with it and it works fast and permanently. Wedge the crack open just a bit to allow the runny glue access to the crack, then clamp shut (finger clamping will work) for a minute or so. Done. Permanent. Strong.

    Whatever glue you use, setup and practice the clamping system before gluing. You have no time to reset with super glue, and limited time with urethane glue. You want it set so that your clamp gets the wood mated perfectly the first time, or risk a repair line.
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    Gunco Veteran Toten Kopf's Avatar
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    One of the best, if not the best adhesive for repairing stocks is Brownell's Acraglass. I mean this is what that stuff was invented for.

    They have the regular Acraglas and Acraglass gel which is thicker. Some people don't use it because it takes a while to fully cure but let me tell you, "the stuff is moosemeat!" And you can color it to match just about any stock color.

    For the crack your showing I would use the regular accraglas and "force" it into the crack. Then using surgical tubing wrap around the stock so the tubing holds everything together real tight.

    I know it sounds like a lot of work but heck, I'm anal about doing things once. Like the saying goes, "There's always time to do it right the second time."
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    Gunco Member colombo's Avatar
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    Another 2 cents, when I repair cracks that aren't completly seperated I use an old hypodermic needle (got horses) it lets you get the glue all the way into the cracked area without spreading the stock to much and doing more damage. One other thing that can save some trouble, open the crack to where you can do the work and close it without glueing to see if it fits up tight again, it's a pain if you open it up and find out a splinter keeps it from fitting together tight after its got glue all in it. most feed supply stores keep large hypos in stock, at least where I live. Acraglass is good stuff.

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    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    Super glue works well, I have used a product called "Hot Stuff" that is sold at hobby stores for assembling model airplanes. It is designed to wick into wood and create a very strong bond. It may just be re-packaged dollar store super glue marked up to $6 but it does work pretty good. Comes with a long thin tube applicater, gets down in the cracks almost as good as a hypo needle.

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    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    I'd never thought of using super glue. The crack doesn't have anyloose bits and when squeezed together lightly it all but dissapears. I had to squeeze it about all the way open for it to show up in the photo. Thanks for everyones input. I'll get some pics of it up when I get it fixed.

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    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Also to add to what Kernel said, you can get a glue at the hobby shops that's called a CA glue (don't know what the CA stands for?) but it's like the old style Super Glue, it stands up to almost everything.

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    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    CA=cyano acrylate. AKA super glue.
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

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    No Hope For Me Coils's Avatar
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    Thank you
    I know it's like the original super glue, the new stuff you can desolve with nail polish remover, you need something a little more harsh to remove CA and if you get it on your skin you have to let it wear off (know this from experience )

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    Gunco Veteran Viper Dude's Avatar
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    Hello Guys,
    Over the years I have used a variety of adhesives to repair gun stocks, grips, etc. I like Brownell's Acraglas as it is a primo epoxy that comes in a kit with fiberglass flocking and brown pigment etc. I have even used this stuff to repair a damaged RC model airplane engine (Super Tigre .46). That engine is still operational after 30 years !!!

    Also good for wood stock repair is slow cure modeling epoxy such as HobbyPoxy etc. The slow cure stuff is stronger and penetrates the wood better over 24 hrs.

    The Aliphatic carpenters glue (yellow wood glue) is high strength too. But like using epoxies you must take care not to over clamp the wood to much as it can starve the repair area of glue. Thus the rubber tubing wrap mentioned earlier.

    Super Glues, CA, etc are great !! They can be had as various viscosities (thicknesses). The watery thin stuff is used for close fitting pieces like the fractured stock. Keep in mind that these adhesives need a certain moisture content in the wood to react. Very old and dry wood (even balsa wood) may take foreve to react and cure. Yes, they do sell spray catalyst juice to accelerate the reaction especially in hardwoods. Take care not to glue your fingers to the wood !!

    I must use the Super glues, CA's, Hot Stuff, etc sparingly as I have a terrible reaction to exposure from years of use. It must be the cyanide in the plastic glue. Though moisture helps cure these CA based adhesives exposure to water can break them down eventually. Bad trend !!!

    The urethane glues have a good reputation though my experience with them is limited. I repaired only one Mauser stock and one PPSh-41 stock with this type and it seemed to work well. Both had bone dry wood. I used duct tape as a clamp method as I couldn't find the rubber tubing and the odd shapes precluded C-clamps.

    Later,
    VD

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