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Thread: Parkerizing FAILURE...why though ??

  1. #1
    AKaholic Saigaist's Avatar
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    Default Parkerizing FAILURE...why though ??

    Hey everyone, I parkerized my Saiga last night, got that PERFECT charcoal black color and everything...was really happy....until...I noticed there was some kind of residue screwing it up big time !

    It's like a white/green color maybe salts ?? Could the pan not be totally stainless....it's just in certain areas....anyone have any ideas as to what it could be ??

    I am waiting for pictures to download so a better idea can be had, I'm not sure what to call it or what it could be....really sucks though !!

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    NoWorkCamp4Me railbuggy's Avatar
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    Hmmmm....I made my solution useing the black stuff from a couple D cell
    batterys,four pints of Kroger Value toilet bowl cleaner,xxxx steelwool,and
    two gal of distilled H2O.Mine came out gray.I did three Nodakspud recivers.

    Tell us more.
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    Gunco Veteran Toten Kopf's Avatar
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    Sounds like you didn't place your part/s immediately in boiling water after the phosphate.

    The boiling water dip stops the phosphate process and prevents the white-out that occurrs (in some but not all places) when just removing from the phosphate itself.

    After the boiling water dip, you can use WD40 to remove any liquid from the part. But do not use WD40 as a lubricant. After the part is dry, use CLP/Oil on the part.
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    Gunco Member bluebouyz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by railbuggy View Post
    Hmmmm....I made my solution useing the black stuff from a couple D cell
    batterys,four pints of Kroger Value toilet bowl cleaner,xxxx steelwool,and
    two gal of distilled H2O.Mine came out gray.I did three Nodakspud recivers.

    Tell us more.

    Could you elaborate on what you use? I've never heard of this homemade brew! A recipe please!

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    AKaholic Saigaist's Avatar
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    Ok finally I got a picture to download....still waiting for the other 4 but here's this one, you can see the light white markings


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    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    That looks like iron streaking to me. If you let it air dry (only takes a second or two) before dunking it in water you'll get that. I fill up a trash can full of cold water from a hose to dunk the parts in. I take them out of the parkering tank still dripping and dunk it in the water which is right next to the park setup. Then when I pull the part out of the water and check it for the quality of finish. If it's good I spray it off with wd40 away from the park tank so I don't get any wd40 near the parkerizing solution. If it isn't I will put it back in the parkerizing solution or even spot sandblast any bad spots and put it back in the park tank. It seems that people have several different ways to get parkerizing done that works for them. Pirate has an excellent tutoral on parkerizing on his website parkerizing . I have ben successful on removing light iron streaking with a GI gun toothbrush and some wd40. If it's heavy like that though I'll usually just sandblast and repark. On the bright side the majority of it is already parkerized and won't get hurt by putting it back in the tank if properly degreased if you just wanted to abrasive blast the outside only. Also occasionally rock the part you're parkerizing in the tank to help remove the bubbles that form on them.

    After having a second cup of coffee, I'm wondering if it could also be oil contamination from the hammer/trigger holes. Does that area have dark parkerizing under the white color, or is it just bare metal. Bare metal would generally mean the surface wasn't prepared correctly.
    Last edited by moleman; 08-14-2010 at 03:35 PM.

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    AKaholic Saigaist's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by moleman View Post
    That looks like iron streaking to me. If you let it air dry (only takes a second or two) before dunking it in water you'll get that. I fill up a trash can full of cold water from a hose to dunk the parts in. I take them out of the parkering tank still dripping and dunk it in the water which is right next to the park setup. Then when I pull the part out of the water and check it for the quality of finish. If it's good I spray it off with wd40 away from the park tank so I don't get any wd40 near the parkerizing solution. If it isn't I will put it back in the parkerizing solution or even spot sandblast any bad spots and put it back in the park tank. It seems that people have several different ways to get parkerizing done that works for them. Pirate has an excellent tutoral on parkerizing on his website parkerizing . I have ben successful on removing light iron streaking with a GI gun toothbrush and some wd40. If it's heavy like that though I'll usually just sandblast and repark. On the bright side the majority of it is already parkerized and won't get hurt by putting it back in the tank if properly degreased if you just wanted to abrasive blast the outside only. Also occasionally rock the part you're parkerizing in the tank to help remove the bubbles that form on them.
    Ok let me explain exactly how I preped and parked it....maybe this will help a little better.

    First I washed it out with hot water and soap 3 time.

    Next I sandblasted it with Aluminum Oxide 70 grit.

    Now here's where I know I screwed up....I rinsed it under water to get any media left from sandblasting....BIG no no, almost instantly what looked like surface rust appeared....I know this can't be good.

    So what I did was I re-blasted the entire rifle and made sure I got it all 100% off and did not rinse it afterwards.

    Then I boiled the water, got it up to between 190-200 degrees and added the parkerizing solution (which comes pre-mixed.)

    Now here's the other problem I think could also be a reason for the streaking....the pan I was using was not long enough to do the receiver and barrel all at once. What I had to do was do one side of the receiver for 15min. then flip it over to do the other side. Then I rinsed it down and sprayed WD40 on it...but the sides were exposed to the air for 15min, while I was doing the other side....maybe it started to air dry like you said ???

    I also had to do the barrel the same way, one side for 15min then the other side....but the side I did first on the barrel didn't come out as bad with the streaks...?



    After having a second cup of coffee, I'm wondering if it could also be oil contamination from the hammer/trigger holes. Does that area have dark parkerizing under the white color, or is it just bare metal. Bare metal would generally mean the surface wasn't prepared correctly.

    Well I tried getting it off in some areas, some areas it came off without the parkerizing comming off but others it was bare metal...

    Is it maybe because I had to one side then flip it over to the other side and I didn't put it in cold water right away ??

    I'm thinking maybe I should order more solution so I have enough to use a bigger pan that can at least do the entire receiver all at once...then put it in cold water and then do the barrel all at once ???




    Also I forgot to mention that the pan I used has the same green/white streaking colors on the bottom of it...more like blotches really ?? Could this be from WD40....maybe I got some in the solution somehow ??

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    gunco irregular moleman's Avatar
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    You're gonna need a pan that'll be deep enough to allow the part to be fully submerged or set up a pump, turkey baster ect.. to keep the part covered in a continous supply of park solution and never ever let it dry until you neutralize it. Otherwise you'll get the iron streaking. I try to keep the solution around 165-180 as if I go up much more I'm actually boiling some of the solution where the burners are which causes a hard yellowish buildup on the tank. When you pull the part out of the parkerizing solution its hot and will try to dry itself pretty fast from the heat, which can also cause iron streaking. The prep you talked about sounds good. I degrease with laquer thinner, boil in soapy water if there are spots like sight bases ect that'll trap grease or oil, degrease again, blast, degrease, park, dunk in water, if good spray off with wd40 and let air dry a few days(or if the wife is out of town I'll put them in the oven at 200 until I'm sure the water has boiled off) and then wipe it down with oil or castrol wheel bearring grease (Its packed for our move, but it looks like whipped honey and not the white lithium or black grease) if I'm not going to use the part for a while. It's important to degrease well before sandblasting so you don't peen grease or oil into pores of the metal that'll just leach out when its hot and give you a blotch finish. Also if you do have some oil seep out while you're parkerizing, to remove it from your tank you can lay some paper towels on top of the park solution which will soak it up. To filter the solution when you're done to remove that mustard colored stuff I just use a red shop rag. It'll turn it blue or black from the solution, but it works well to remove the particulates. The suggested coffee filter method is better, but it takes a long time.
    Looks good for a first try at parkerizing. I bet if you had a deeper pan it would of been perfect.

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    Quote Originally Posted by moleman View Post
    You're gonna need a pan that'll be deep enough to allow the part to be fully submerged or set up a pump, turkey baster ect.. to keep the part covered in a continous supply of park solution and never ever let it dry until you neutralize it. Otherwise you'll get the iron streaking. I try to keep the solution around 165-180 as if I go up much more I'm actually boiling some of the solution where the burners are which causes a hard yellowish buildup on the tank. When you pull the part out of the parkerizing solution its hot and will try to dry itself pretty fast from the heat, which can also cause iron streaking. The prep you talked about sounds good. I degrease with laquer thinner, boil in soapy water if there are spots like sight bases ect that'll trap grease or oil, degrease again, blast, degrease, park, dunk in water, if good spray off with wd40 and let air dry a few days(or if the wife is out of town I'll put them in the oven at 200 until I'm sure the water has boiled off) and then wipe it down with oil or castrol wheel bearring grease (Its packed for our move, but it looks like whipped honey and not the white lithium or black grease) if I'm not going to use the part for a while. It's important to degrease well before sandblasting so you don't peen grease or oil into pores of the metal that'll just leach out when its hot and give you a blotch finish. Also if you do have some oil seep out while you're parkerizing, to remove it from your tank you can lay some paper towels on top of the park solution which will soak it up. To filter the solution when you're done to remove that mustard colored stuff I just use a red shop rag. It'll turn it blue or black from the solution, but it works well to remove the particulates. The suggested coffee filter method is better, but it takes a long time.
    Looks good for a first try at parkerizing. I bet if you had a deeper pan it would of been perfect.


    Thanks for all the help. I'm going to order about a half gallon of the solution so I can submerge the entire part this time.

    Will it be ok if I do the whole receiver, run it under cold water for a few minutes then do the whole barrel ?? Then run the barrel under cold water and then spray it down with WD40 ? Then lastly let it sit in motor oil for about a day then air dry ??

    The color couldn't of came out more perfect honestly, a nice dark charcoal color...exactly what I was going for...sucks it got a little messed up.

    It actually looks so good I would like to leave it with just the park instead of painting !

    I'm going to try and spot sandblast the areas with streaking and then re-park them....now hopefully I can get that same color that would really suck if it came out diffrent colors haha.

  10. #10
    GuncoHolic kernelkrink's Avatar
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    What brand of solution are you using? Did the instructions mention "aging" the solution at all? With the Concentrate I use you get poor results until you add some iron to the mix, usually with a degreased steel wool pad in a coffee filter "bag".

    As for doing the rifle in sections, that will cause surface rust to form, the steam from the bath is going to make the exposed dry areas flash rust. You need to get all of the part covered in park solution at one time. Even if it's just using a ladle to pour it over the parts, keep it wet at all times.

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