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a few handguard sets ive finished

2K views 24 replies 11 participants last post by  twa2471 
#1 ·

figured id post up some pics of my handy work since i was showin off to someone else
they started out as new polish handguard sets i picked up from i think it was allied armerment a while back before he moved
anyways i just lightly sanded them to get the oil base off and diddnt even stain them-just put on about 10 coats of polly
i wet sanded(using lemon oil and 2500 grit)between coats
and there ya have it VIOLA!!:naughty:
 
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#8 ·
thanks guys:)
earnie,i use minwax clear satin wipe on polly
i use a sponge squeege brush to apply it on-thats what it looks like to me anyway

you can get them at home depot for like 40cts or so each
and i brush on in one direction overlapping the stokes making sure it dont leave a line
then after it cures for a day before i put another coat on -depending on how smooth it came out-i buff with 0000steeel wool or i use 2500 grit paper and wetsand with lemon oil

again let sit to cure for a day and repeat for desired effect
they usaly take me about 3 weeks to do-some stocks im doing are taking over a month
but im also spraying on minwax clear aresol laquer on it-clear gloss
and man im liking the results!!!I swear one im almost finished with is almost a dead ringer for russian stain-but more glassy lookin;)ill post up some pics when done

too bad you dont live close by earnie-coffees allways on bro!!
gimme a pm somtime;)
 
#10 ·
damn Bob and i thought the polish hg set i traded from you was good, i love the light one. everyone, look at his other photobucket pictures and you'll see some beautifull stocks as well! i should send you my m76 stock set hehe ;)
 
#13 ·
Looking great Bob!! You use basically the same steps that I do. I know that they never looked this good from the factory, but it's hard to stop when the wood looks that good. LOL. Keep up the great work.
 
#16 ·
Thank you
I thought about the auto clear coat,i do know how to apply it on cars
but unfortunatley when i got out of working for the Ford dealer i sold it off
my spray setup-now i kick myself in the butt :buttkick:
i could have used the setup for applying gunkote and other things as well as doing automotive sidework
ah well-hindsite,but im sure i can pick up another setup fairly cheap from somebody else getting out of the auto buisness
i probably could use the spray set up for staining as well??
hmmm i just might have to check out the big flea markets and see if i can find a sharpes setup
 
#20 ·
One of my favorite products for clear is the Interlux catilized spar varnish and for standard varnish Man o War spar is the best. The interlux is tough as nails and multiple layers can be done in one day it's dry in about an hour or so. But the man-o War gives a bit more depth but takes much longer to dry, one coat every couple of days, It's best if you've got that grade 3 or 4 wood you want to look saw-weet . Spray guns can be obtained from your local NAPA store or any other good parts store that handles body shop supplys for around $30. Just be sure to get a fine tip like a 1 or so, stay away from a 2 as there more for primers and heaver viscosity paints. A used spray gun is not a good idea, nothing worse than beeing on your last coat and have a "spit" that causes a run, then it's a pain to sand out and make it look right.
 
#21 ·
ive heard of the stuff-never thought about using it for wood though
but then again i would imagine it would be tuff as nails
i know what you mean about used spray guns-i borrowed one once and i was better off just buying a new one-i had to re-do a quater panel because of it
im meteculous about my stuff-allways clean up after im done and never loaned it out
i would like to get just a cheaper one just for my stock projects and keep the more expensive one for my body work
Thanks for the tip! ;)
 
#24 ·
theres a couple of marineas out by me i can ask the guys there if they have a sample i can borrow-oh yea as with any painting and such i allways use a well ventilated area-i need the rest of my brain cells! :)
 
#25 ·
After 25+ years in the marine busness and all that gel-coat and varnish work I'm not really sure if I got any bcells left !!!! One other hint on the Interlux, I've brush applyed it with less than steller results, very had to get it even as it leves a very thin film unlike the heavy viscosity varnishes. It's more like an automotive clear,it dosn't depend on "build" for results, so for real, spray it. I think I mentioned before it dosn't seem to have the depth as it is very clear, the Man-o-War has the varnish color with higher build thickness equating to a deeper looking finish, but much slower drying.
 
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