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Thread: a few handguard sets ive finished

  1. #11
    Gunco Member rapidrus's Avatar
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    thats what so cool about this forum
    all the different ways of doing the samething and the results
    VERY nice

  2. #12
    GuncoHolic zteknik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rapidrus View Post
    thats what so cool about this forum
    all the different ways of doing the samething and the results
    VERY nice
    LOL!!ive been told by definition that that is called insanity!!
    but this kind of insanity is of the good kind and actualy works!!!
    that and its FUN!!
    Keep the change-I just want my Country back!!!

  3. #13
    GuncoHolic 2ndAmendican's Avatar
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    Looking great Bob!! You use basically the same steps that I do. I know that they never looked this good from the factory, but it's hard to stop when the wood looks that good. LOL. Keep up the great work.
    Enforcement, NOT Amnesty!!!!!!

    "If they’re going to come here illegally, apply for & receive assistance through a corrupted Government agency encouraging this lawless behavior, work under the table & send billions of dollars each year back to their families in Mexico, while bleeding local economies dry, protest in our streets waving their Mexican flags DEMANDING rights, while I have to press ’1′ for English, then they need to be shipped back to where they came from!" -Chad Miller

  4. #14
    GuncoHolic zteknik's Avatar
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    thanks Chris
    i like puting the final touches to factory furniture
    heres what it looks like mounted(sorry about the focus)
    Picture 162.jpg
    Keep the change-I just want my Country back!!!

  5. #15
    Gunco Member withers.45's Avatar
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    Just to throw in a couple cents, automotive grade clear coats (two part urethanes) give a very deep, gloss finish with pretty good durability. Requires an HVLP spray set up though.
    Your finishing work looks excellent.

  6. #16
    GuncoHolic zteknik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by withers.45 View Post
    Just to throw in a couple cents, automotive grade clear coats (two part urethanes) give a very deep, gloss finish with pretty good durability. Requires an HVLP spray set up though.
    Your finishing work looks excellent.
    Thank you
    I thought about the auto clear coat,i do know how to apply it on cars
    but unfortunatley when i got out of working for the Ford dealer i sold it off
    my spray setup-now i kick myself in the butt
    i could have used the setup for applying gunkote and other things as well as doing automotive sidework
    ah well-hindsite,but im sure i can pick up another setup fairly cheap from somebody else getting out of the auto buisness
    i probably could use the spray set up for staining as well??
    hmmm i just might have to check out the big flea markets and see if i can find a sharpes setup
    Keep the change-I just want my Country back!!!

  7. #17
    Gunco Member withers.45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zteknik View Post
    Thank you
    I thought about the auto clear coat,i do know how to apply it on cars
    but unfortunatley when i got out of working for the Ford dealer i sold it off
    my spray setup-now i kick myself in the butt
    i could have used the setup for applying gunkote and other things as well as doing automotive sidework
    ah well-hindsite,but im sure i can pick up another setup fairly cheap from somebody else getting out of the auto buisness
    i probably could use the spray set up for staining as well??
    hmmm i just might have to check out the big flea markets and see if i can find a sharpes setup

    Spraying stains works really well for flooding the piece with stain before giving it a good rubbing in. There is also a new polyurethane made by Olympic (Olympics owned by PPG so you know its good) thats specifically for sraying and multiple coats can be put on in one day. Haven't used it yet myself but am trying to get ahold of some.

  8. #18
    GuncoHolic zteknik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by withers.45 View Post
    Spraying stains works really well for flooding the piece with stain before giving it a good rubbing in. There is also a new polyurethane made by Olympic (Olympics owned by PPG so you know its good) thats specifically for sraying and multiple coats can be put on in one day. Haven't used it yet myself but am trying to get ahold of some.
    let me know how you make out
    ppg is great stuff!!!
    i wonder if the local auto paint supply would have it?
    i know a place by me that specificly caters to the body shops and such,id have to give them a call and see what they have or can order
    Thanks withers
    Keep the change-I just want my Country back!!!

  9. #19
    Gunco Member withers.45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zteknik View Post
    let me know how you make out
    ppg is great stuff!!!
    i wonder if the local auto paint supply would have it?
    i know a place by me that specificly caters to the body shops and such,id have to give them a call and see what they have or can order
    Thanks withers
    Your welcome, any time.

    Woodworking is one of my hobbies as well, so I get as interested in the furniture as much as the rest of the gun

  10. #20
    GuncoHolic twa2471's Avatar
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    One of my favorite products for clear is the Interlux catilized spar varnish and for standard varnish Man o War spar is the best. The interlux is tough as nails and multiple layers can be done in one day it's dry in about an hour or so. But the man-o War gives a bit more depth but takes much longer to dry, one coat every couple of days, It's best if you've got that grade 3 or 4 wood you want to look saw-weet . Spray guns can be obtained from your local NAPA store or any other good parts store that handles body shop supplys for around $30. Just be sure to get a fine tip like a 1 or so, stay away from a 2 as there more for primers and heaver viscosity paints. A used spray gun is not a good idea, nothing worse than beeing on your last coat and have a "spit" that causes a run, then it's a pain to sand out and make it look right.

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