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Thread: Extracting oil and grease from milsurp furniture

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    Gunco Regular Johnny 5.56's Avatar
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    Default Extracting oil and grease from milsurp furniture

    Gents,
    I need your help in order to find out the best way to extract oil and grease from milsurp furniture before I refinish it. I want to prevent the "weeping" that occurs when the wood handguards heat up and the old oil and grease bubble up and melt through the new shellac finish I apply.
    Thanks,
    Johnny.

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    GuncoHolic Sprat's Avatar
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    I acetone the wood with old rags and fine steel wool several times and using a heat lamp or the natural sunlight with the stock wrapped up in newspaper and place in the window sill. I find the heat lamp is better (no need to wrap it in newspaer) because I can control the areas I need to concentrate on like the grip area.
    Also have a old flea market Iron and old washcloths or towels( lightly wet the towel apply the iron to the wet area to raise the dent) to raise dents and steam out more oil but don't go crazy
    all old military stocks we coated with linseed oil, I used a mixture of original linseed oil and a little bit of beeswax, this duplicates orignal miltary finishes

    don't use the diswasher, oven cleaner, bleach, or sand paper

    sprat
    Sprat and sprat1 are one and the same.

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    Gunco Regular Johnny 5.56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprat1 View Post
    I acetone the wood with old rags and fine steel wool several times and using a heat lamp or the natural sunlight with the stock wrapped up in newspaper and place in the window sill. I find the heat lamp is better (no need to wrap it in newspaer) because I can control the areas I need to concentrate on like the grip area.
    Also have a old flea market Iron and old washcloths or towels( lightly wet the towel apply the iron to the wet area to raise the dent) to raise dents and steam out more oil but don't go crazy
    all old military stocks we coated with linseed oil, I used a mixture of original linseed oil and a little bit of beeswax, this duplicates orignal miltary finishes

    don't use the diswasher, oven cleaner, bleach, or sand paper

    sprat

    Thank you.

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    Gunco Good ole boy tanvil's Avatar
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    Sprat, why not oven cleaner. I've used it after removing all the metal parts from the stock.
    Please don't tell me it's going to turn into sawdust in 5 years....

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    Gunco Regular Johnny 5.56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanvil View Post
    Sprat, why not oven cleaner. I've used it after removing all the metal parts from the stock.
    Please don't tell me it's going to turn into sawdust in 5 years....

    When you used over cleaner, did you just scrub the wood and then wash it down with soapy water afterwards?

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    Gunco Good ole boy tanvil's Avatar
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    The stuff really tears metal up. After stripping all metal from the wood I sprayed it on and scrubbed with a green scotchbright and then a terry cloth towel followed by rinsing thoroughly with a garden hose. After drying for a day or two, the wood was completely smooth and free of any of it's original finish. The scotchbright knocked the raised grain off without removing any of the stocks profile. I read Sprats relpy and now I'm beginning to wonder.
    This was an old oil rubbed finish,
    I've found alcohol to work well on most AKs.

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    Gunco Regular Johnny 5.56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanvil View Post
    The stuff really tears metal up. After stripping all metal from the wood I sprayed it on and scrubbed with a green scotchbright and then a terry cloth towel followed by rinsing thoroughly with a garden hose. After drying for a day or two, the wood was completely smooth and free of any of it's original finish. The scotchbright knocked the raised grain off without removing any of the stocks profile. I read Sprats relpy and now I'm beginning to wonder.
    This was an old oil rubbed finish,
    I've found alcohol to work well on most AKs.

    Thanks for the info. What I've done in the past is scrub the wood with soapy water and then let it air dry. I then wrapped the wood in paper towels (with rubberbands) and placed it in a black trash bag. I left the bag in the sun for several hours. This seemed to work, but I wasn't able to test fire the finished furniture afterwards so I don't know if any weeping occurred. I'd love to find out other, tested methods.

    Thanks guys.

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    GuncoHolic Sprat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tanvil View Post
    The stuff really tears metal up. After stripping all metal from the wood I sprayed it on and scrubbed with a green scotchbright and then a terry cloth towel followed by rinsing thoroughly with a garden hose. After drying for a day or two, the wood was completely smooth and free of any of it's original finish. The scotchbright knocked the raised grain off without removing any of the stocks profile. I read Sprats relpy and now I'm beginning to wonder.
    This was an old oil rubbed finish,
    I've found alcohol to work well on most AKs.
    tanvil
    what are you wondering about????, oven cleaner is suppose weaken the wood . I used it once on a old enfield cosmoline stock, no it has not turned to saw dust, but after reading others post in the past 15 years since I did the enfield stock. the concensus seems to go without oven cleaner

    the advice I gave above is conservative and works

    sprat
    Sprat and sprat1 are one and the same.

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    Gunco Maniac sjohnson's Avatar
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    Here's how wood that looked like typical Yugo milsurp before, looks after a somewhat radical method

    Apex gives me Yugo wood
    I have a daughter. I tell her, "911 is what you dial after you're raped. 1911 is what you should have before they try."

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    Gunco Regular Johnny 5.56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjohnson View Post
    Here's how wood that looked like typical Yugo milsurp before, looks after a somewhat radical method

    Apex gives me Yugo wood

    Nice!

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