View Full Version : going to start my pistol soon
08-28-2005, 02:00 AM
I have had most of the stuff to get started but never got time to work on it. I got a barrel from Droog and I am going to take some parts out of a rommy kit I have. I have been looking and thinking and I am going to see if I can cut the barrel back more to 6 inch or less. now that should be a ball O fire .. I have a couple neat ideas to shorten the stroke and may even shorten the reciever too , I do not know for shure yet . it is all in my mind so far , now I have to get the parts out and play a bit with tha calipers and see how short I can go. this WILL look like a hand gun NOT a short rifle. as for the rear I am going to just cut off a standard rear tang and weld on a back plate flush.
anyopne else that has done one of thies pistol builds that hs any tips... I am all ears..
08-28-2005, 03:18 AM
hmm that got me thinking you could probly shorten the receiver an inch or 2 if you could some how find stronger recoil springs so the bolt carrier doesnt smack the the rear trunion and it would still eject all the same probly an throw a recoil buffer in there also i just built and amd pistol a couple days ago i like it hope your turns out good
08-28-2005, 02:38 PM
They look rather spiffy with a bevel butt on them.
08-28-2005, 09:26 PM
HB, The extra length on the receiver gives the carier momentum to to help feed the next round into the chamber. be carefull not to shorten the reciever too much.
08-28-2005, 11:43 PM
pupwag , that is prety much what I am going to do . I have a tang to cut in my kit.
redchevyman , I hav not fully decided yet BUT what I have in mind is to shorten it to the point ware it pushes the hammer fully down into the FCG hooks but NOT past. what I see happening now is the bolt travels over the hammer pushes them down HOWEVER the bolt keeps traveling past the hammer. when the bolt starts forward again it hits the hammer again forces itself over the hammer and then continues down to extract a round from the mag. ... I know I have changed tha angel of the hammer to help the bolt travel back over it smoother on a lot of my builds , this grinding realy helps the bolt cycle forwadr a lot smoother. it seems to me if the bolt never has to bang into the hammer comming forward their should not be a lot of energy loss. I "THINK" that stopping the bolt just after the hammer is fully down but NOT beyond the hammer should not lessen the power of the drive spring much if at all. NOW keep in mind I know this is speculaion now BUT ........ I think what I can do EASY would be to assamble the front end as I allready plan. then to drill the holes for the rear and just use some screws and test fire a few rounds. if it works great then I will cut and rivet it. if it dose not work then NO LOSS I can fill the holes and move it back. shoot I can do this a couple times moveing it back a bit at a time till I find a good point.
how dose it sound .. what do you see going wrong???/
08-29-2005, 01:03 AM
I'm not sure I've the full picture -- the hammer needs to be grabbed by the disconnector.
It'll increase the bang on the rear tang.
You can clamp it with C clamps. I'm to the point where they're clamped and shot before they're riveted. Problems sure are easier to straighten out that way!
08-30-2005, 02:05 AM
it may "increese the bang in the back" and it may not. I am told the velosity of the bullet in a 6 inch balrrel is WAY low, gas pressure is way low because most of the powder is just blown out the front in a big flash. SOO the answer to the rear end bang, I think is to start with a small gas hole, maby small enough to have it NOT stroke fully, then work my way up. if needed. I spoke to a guy that bought a BUNCH of custom pistons and got very short , he said standard size hole worked fine. but it is easy to start small if I want.
looking at a built gun I now see exaclty how far I am going to shorten it!! I am going to shorten it LESS than I first thouight. at first I was thinking only inside function, HOWEVER I also need to think outside LOOKS!! with that in mind I am only going to shorten it up to the point of the back of the pistol grip ,, this way it will be more pistol like . with the grip line going up over the back of the reciever. nice smooth transition.
NOW for the actual back of the reciever. it will NOT be square , it will be a continuation fot the dust cover line WAY COOL!! so in other words the dust cover button will actualy be OVER the pistol grip!! . this will result in the rear end only being shortened about 1/2 or 3/4 inch .. that will look great I think. and still have the carrier traveling well past the hammer ..
08-30-2005, 02:17 AM
here is a rough drawing of what I am thinking.. what do you guys think , of the idea and the look!!
in the front I am going to push the sight block back further on the barrel and re-pin in . this will alow me to move back the front sight- block and the tube without shortening the tube. then I can cut the barrel off shorter.
I know I can cut the tube some shorter and move the sight back further and cut the barel ever shorter again.
the ONLY thing I have about going too short is eventualy the bullet velosity will just fall rite off. I was told that a 6" barrel endes up with something like 600 FPS not too good. I can imaging going much shorter and slower than that .. yikes.. I do not want it to be like a sling shot HAHA
again how do you like the back of the reciever idea?? looks a lot more like a "pistol" I think ,, how about you??
08-30-2005, 02:54 AM
sorry the pic did not work so good,
08-30-2005, 09:42 AM
Ohhhhh. Only 600 f.p.s. Are you thinking what I'm thinking??
I like that drawing HB. That should look real good. And if anybody can make it work, it would be you. Keep us updated.