View Full Version : MG47ES Belt feed
09-27-2008, 11:04 PM
yeah me too. You get to go out and shoot it and fix all of the small issues.
10-03-2008, 02:05 PM
Well, I'm sitting in Iraq and planning out my next projects for when I get back and this is going on the top of the list. I don't have enough posts to PM because I am basically a lurker on Gunco. My last posts were on a milled receiver weld up I built. I HAVE to get a set of your plans to peruse while I am here and to do when I get home. Please let me know where to mail a MO and how much. I sent you an email as well.
10-09-2008, 12:20 PM
I don't have enough posts to PM because I am basically a lurker on Gunco.
You need to get those posts up! :)
10-09-2008, 04:18 PM
Pretty sad. Member since 06, 8 posts.
Some forums I socialize on, some I buy on and some I come to for expertise. This is the latter. I tend to socialize and buy on Calguns, because it is all the same laws, and you can meet the folks.
I'll socialize more here. promise.
10-09-2008, 05:49 PM
Please feel free to ask any question about the MG builds. If I can't answer it then I am sure CTR can. He is a very good source of info and how to on these things. He's built 3, I'm working on my 3rd. Dvann, Inabad, DTM, Pirate, are all great sources of advice. Good way for building your posts up too.
10-10-2008, 06:32 AM
Thanks again SS. I will be bugging you guys as well as the guys on Beltfedshooters. I tend to float from forum to forum based upon whatever my current projects are. I have the belt fed itch now so i'll be hanging around here.
10-10-2008, 01:37 PM
What did you find out about 7.62x39 in M240 and M249 links?
10-10-2008, 05:02 PM
not yet, but I will soon
10-21-2008, 04:18 PM
11-09-2008, 10:06 PM
I used a m60 recoil spring (from Numrich) and started at 16" and trimmed so it still would feed and not be so strong that it would short cycle. Each build is a little different so you will have to experiment a little.
Can you share the Numrich part number by any chance? (EDIT: I think the Numrich part number is 27690 for the old-style single wound)
As I don't have one to look at, what is the O.D.? ANSWER: about .360"
Are there any alternatives aside from making your own?
(my guess is some of this info is missing in this thread from the server burp)
11-12-2008, 07:02 AM
You'll need the single wound early spring as the later double wound spring has too big of a diameter to fit an AK bolt carrier.
11-18-2008, 11:36 PM
sign me up for a set of mg47es plans please.
11-19-2008, 01:24 AM
OMG. That is the coolest home-engineered gun ever!!
11-20-2008, 01:28 PM
*SIGH* I've been having difficulties with 'big brother' on this build. So, I won't be finishing my build... :(
11-20-2008, 03:41 PM
What kind of troubles? Calling you? E-mail?Tell them they can watch you make a legal rifle on the forum and if they keep harassing you then call a lawyer and sue for a million!
11-21-2008, 01:08 PM
I posted it about it on ARFCOM. I had a running thread documenting how I was building it, but after these troubling issues, I just had the thread deleted and stopped the project.
It's a fight I'm in no way prepared to undertake at this point in my life...
I posted my apology here... (http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=113380)
Sorry guys. :(
11-26-2008, 12:48 AM
I need to make one of those..
04-11-2009, 04:09 AM
I have my feed tray and top cover mounted. When I attempt to cycle ammo through by hand the rounds do not want to drop down. they just want to go strait forward and run into the cartridge guide. I have looked every thing over and I just cant seem to figure it out. Thank you all..
04-11-2009, 09:35 AM
You might need to bend the tip of the cartridge depressor down slightly. It is heat treated so you should heat it to a dull read before you try bending it. Be sure you remove it from the top cover assembly before you do. You don't want to anneal the cartridge depressor spring. First try beveling the feed ramp or what I think you are referring to as the cartridge guide so the tip of the bullet is deflected down into the mouth of the chamber. A Dremal tool works great for that. After you bevel it, polish it with a Dremal polishing tip.
04-12-2009, 04:29 AM
Well thank you for the tips. CNC trailrider said that I should post some pics of the problem so here they are I am afraid that my problem is severe enough that beveling the feed ramp is not enough. Also how much of it can I remove and still be safe? The bright area on the cartridge depressor is were I TIG it back together after I cut it too short. In your opinion will it hold being welded or shout I get a new plate?
04-12-2009, 04:37 AM
As or right now I have the original depressor spring in place.
04-12-2009, 04:39 AM
I am using an AMD trunnion I have no idea if that would make a difference
04-12-2009, 05:54 AM
You can bevel the cartridge guide a lot with out compromising the trunnion strength. I will post some pictures of mine so you can see how much I have beveled it. I will also post a picture of my cartridge depressor and feed tray modifcation. By opening up the slot in the feedtray allows the cartridge to sit lower so the bullet nose is below the cartridge guide. My feed tray is opened up enough so that the connecting springs of the links rest on the feed tray. Bending down the cartridge depressor tip guides the bullet below the cartridge guide. Having to TIG weld the tip back on, if done right, so you have complete penetration of your weld, should be no problem strength wise.
Also, from what I can see in your pictures looks good although you are going to have to remove the portion of the left guide rail that is sticking down into the ejection port. Otherwise you are going to have ejection problems. Just leave enough for the cap screw above it to have a complete threaded hole.
04-12-2009, 06:18 AM
It looks like you may have not narrowed the stripping lug on the bolt enough. This will also cause the cartridge and links to ride up high in the feed tray and not line up so the nose of the bullet is below the cartridge guide. The stripping lug should be narrowed so it is narrower than the gap in the links. Otherwise it will lift the cartridge and link up and cause the same problem.
04-12-2009, 12:32 PM
Here is some pictures of the feed ramp and how the cartridge & link set down in the feed tray slot. You can also see how the stripping lug of the bolt head has been narrowed. A good picture of this is in the tutorial. You may have to weld a small block to the top of the cartridge guide and blend a bevel into the guide to get it to deflect the cartridge down into the chamber depending on what your trunnion looks like. I did on this trunnion. If you do, a piece of 1/4" key stock works and just use minimal weld so you don't anneal the trunnion locking lug areas. You can see that the block is welded along the top and sides but the welds are away from the locking lugs. Don't weld the block to the top of the locking lugs. I also beveled and polished the top of the chamber a small amount to remove the sharp edge. Be sure you don't bevel into the chamber more than about 1/8" though.