View Full Version : Rookie Problem with CETME
02-22-2009, 10:29 AM
Greetings everyone! I am a new member to Gunco.net and also a new owner of a Century Arms CETME. Before I bought the rifle I did a lot of research and was well aware of all the problems CAI CETME have had. When I went and checked it out everything looked decent and was said to be almost brand new. Took it to the range yesterday for the first time since owning it and loaded the magazine slapped the cocking lever down loaded the round flawlessly. Fired great, but didn't eject the shell. I had to manually cock the lever after every shot. Is this a wearing in type issue? I also stripped the rifle when I got home to clean it and looked at the bolt gap, and either there isn't one or it is extrememly small. I don't have a feeler guage to get an exact measurement but could this be the problem as well? I only shot 20 rounds through the rifle, because the more I shot it the more I was worried about the gap. I took a picture of what the bolt looked like after every shot. I placed the pitures as an attachment. Any help would be appreciated.
As a side note I also wanted to ask what kind of ammunition works best in this rifle. I was using American Eagle .308 ammunition at the range. Also anything else you think a new CETME owner should know would be great! Thanks
02-22-2009, 11:56 AM
At first I'd say your ammo isn't loaded hot enough to kick the bolt/carrier back. Since the rifle is delayed blowback you are going to need something hot enough to cycle it.
HOWEVER I would wonder if the chamber has any deformations/galling etc. that would grab the case and prevent a smooth extraction. You can look at your brass and youd should be able to see if there's any scratches on it. You don't say if it was difficult extracting by hand, which is a sign the case isn't properly extracting.
Also you may look at the ejector to see if it is rounded or otherwise deformed. If so, you would need to cut it down, weld a piece of 4130 steel to the front, and dremel it down to the proper shape. You could try just welding a big bead of metal but the welding metal is softer than 4130 so you'll find it won't hold up as well over the long term, even after heat treating. You'll most likely have to repaint the receiver since that amount of heat will probably affect the paint.
02-22-2009, 12:00 PM
Sorry about that. It was easier to cock the lever back after shooting the round than it usually is. As far as markings on the case, after shooting there was a lot of residue (mix between oil and powder) and on the case there were vertical stripes on the shells. They would wipe off though. Not sure if this is helping or not. Thanks
02-22-2009, 01:13 PM
You need to clean the chamber/flutes and make sure there is no oil in the chamber. Does the brass have actual ridges in it where it swelled into the chamber flutes. Yo uwant to find some mil surplus ammo to shoot of steel cased stuff. American Eagle is really soft brass and it may be swelling up in the chamber and sticking. If you cycle rounds by hand, will they eject? Obviously be very careful with live ammo. If I cycle my CETMEs by hand, it will chuck a loaded round about 15' across the room with a good tug on the cocking lever.
02-22-2009, 01:16 PM
The brass didn't have actual ridges on it just residue of the flute markings that I could wipe off. Where can I get mil surplus ammo online? There arent many gun stores around me that sell anything other than .308. When I cycle the round by hand it chucks the casing a pretty good distance. One or twice I did eject a live round, but after having to do it everytime I wasnt sure when it was going to put a live one in and when it wouldnt cycle. Hope this helps.
02-22-2009, 02:21 PM
Commercial .308 is usually hotter than military spec 7.62x51.
The only problem with commercial ammo is that the case is thinner than milspec and can be ripped apart during the ejection cycle of the Cetme/G3 rifles.
Clean your chamber very very well, as the monkeys are known for their leavings. . .
02-22-2009, 02:22 PM
First off, you need to get the lack of bolt gap fixed, it is a measurement of the roller system wear and none is beyond spec. Looks like the bolt is only coming back far enough to partially unlatch the carrier from the bolt, this would explain the easier to cock after firing. Is the bbl an original CETME or a US made replacement? Some of the aftermarket bbls have the chamber flutes cut improperly and have failures to extract.
Ammo may be underpowered, try a different brand once you get the bolt gap corrected.
02-22-2009, 02:25 PM
"Is the bbl an original CETME or a US made replacement? Some of the aftermarket bbls have the chamber flutes cut improperly and have failures to extract.
That was my first thought & I have read posts of this happening & the reason many preffer the original barrels.
02-22-2009, 02:58 PM
From what I understood everything was original except the receiver. Maybe I just need to sit down for a couple of hours and pay close attention to cleaning the chamber and flute area.
02-22-2009, 05:20 PM
In order to be legally sold in this country a certain number of foreign made parts have to be swapped out with US made ones, IIRC a CETME has 17 countable parts. You are only allowed 10 foreign made ones, so Century replaced 7 parts with US made ones. For the last couple of years importers have had to torch cut the bbl before import is allowed, if Century is building them off a recent kit import they would have to replace the bbl regardless. Dunno as they are, but your problem is a common one with aftermarket bbls.
Too small a bolt gap can also cause this problem. Be aware Century has in the past simply ground some material off the rear of the bolt to artificially simulate a wider bolt gap, make sure they understand that you do not consider this a proper correction if you send it back. A set of +4 rollers may fix the gap problem, around $20-25.
Checking Headspace (http://22.214.171.124/hot51/hot51.com/headspace.htm)
02-22-2009, 05:39 PM
ok Thanks. I was aware of the ground bolt issue and checked before hand and it was not ground down. The other thing I wasnt sure of was what size rollers should I buy? I know there are different sizes (+2 +4) and it depends on the gap you currently have, but for little or no gap should i go with the 4's.
02-22-2009, 08:11 PM
There arent many gun stores around me that sell anything other than .308.
Backwoods Outfitters in Columbia (behind Anvil), small shop, really nice guy.
Enck's Gun Barn north east of Schafferstown, kind of a drive but he has a web site and you can call to see if he has any before hand. Also a nice guy.
Wolf's on 72 at the turnpike, small dingy shop, I've only been ther a few times.
Also there's going to be show at Harrisburg, I think it's in March, there should be some there.
02-22-2009, 11:04 PM
I'd go with the +4s.
02-23-2009, 09:25 AM
Thanks for the info. Im going to contact Enck's and see if he has any in stock, and I'm gonna get a set of +4 rollers. Ill try to keep everyone updated with how the fix goes. Thanks again
02-23-2009, 04:06 PM
ok just got off the phone with RTG. Ordered a pair of new +4 rollers and just in case I get this thing working I order two more 20 round mags since I only have one. I am going to go home this weekend and spend every minute of spare time cleaning the chamber area of this gun. So after I get the rollers swapped out and my British 7.62NATO ammo gets here I can go to the ranger and see if it just needed to be worn in. I'll keep you updated for sure
02-23-2009, 04:26 PM
Do a search on polishing the chamber. As stated before some of the replacement barrels had rough chamber flutes which caused extraction problems.
02-23-2009, 05:26 PM
GreenBlood my CETME did the same type of thing. I shot 6-8 magazines in the fashion you discribed. After that, for some odd reason, it never had another issue feeding or ejecting.
02-23-2009, 05:32 PM
GreenBlood, also read: CAI CETME in this forum. I wrote about all the prob.s i had with mine . Let me know if you have anymore questions. i will be happy to help !
02-23-2009, 06:57 PM
James Ward THANK YOU SO MUCH! After spending what I did on this rifle and then having that happen, I was looking for someone to confirm my belief that it just needs to be warn in. Again thanks alot.
02-23-2009, 11:09 PM
GreenBlood, no problem !! like i said before, if you have any other questions, feel free to ask. i would be happy to help ! after all ,i spent a few extra bucks on my cetme due to prob.s . i should atleast share my knowledge of such things. so, others wont have to practice the trial and error approach.
02-24-2009, 11:40 AM
Will do! Appreciate it again!
02-27-2009, 01:46 PM
Next question. Anyone have any experience reinstalling their cocking handle and spring. I completely took apart the weapon to examine the before stated problem and now am having a difficult time getting the handle back together. I read on robertrtg website about how to do it and he doesn't exactly say how other than prepare to be frustrated which I am beyond now. Any advice would be GREAT! Thanks everyone
02-27-2009, 02:12 PM
Scratch that I figured it out. It's all about steady hands and knowing how it needs to go back in. Thanks anyways
03-01-2009, 03:11 PM
It was kind of a pain for me too. but, had to clean out all that grime and grit to make cocking easier !! I even had to repair a breakage yesterday. My extractor spring broke. You may wanna replace everything you can with U.S. or HK parts(U.S. parts are like non-existant), like springs, pins and etc. From what i understand, the Spanish were hit and miss on quality control. But, the Germans usually make good stuff ! Also, let me know how it shoots when you break it in. I am curious !! ALSO, The front site controls up & down and left & right too. it is a pain . but, you will figure it out.
03-02-2009, 04:49 PM
haha Thanks Ward. I have been spending a lot of time with this rifle just trying to familiarize myself with all of it. I cleaned it from butt to muzzle, and have come to the conclusion that she just needs to be worn in. Unfortunately I haven't been able to spend anymore time with her at the range, since it seems a lot of the 7.62X51 ammo has dried up. I called a lot of the local places and they said they haven't seen any in a while. I bought a couple 75 round bandoleers from J&G, I believe British surplus. Have you ever shot any of that, and do you know of any good places to get this ammo? Thanks for all your help. I'll be sure to keep you updated once this ammo gets here!