View Full Version : strip a vulcan
02-13-2004, 11:17 PM
I have a vulcan reciever and would like to park it myself. it allready has a finish on it "not too nice" . any one have any ideas what it is and how to strip it before I parkerize it here. I often sand blast before parking but I do not want to change the texture of the finish.
02-14-2004, 09:05 AM
I have a few Vulcans and - to me - they seem to be Manganese Parkerized.
Be careful about this information==> I'd try it on scrap first===>
I usually degrease well, sand any rust and immerse the part in diluted Hydrochloric acid (HCl) first. I get it at Home Depot in the paint department under the name, muriatic acid. With parts needing a complete finish, I use sanding and HCl to remove the old finish.
I dilute it roughly (1 whiskey jigger or one once to a quart of tap water) and place it in a plastic jar or jug. I have used the bottom of a half liter plastic water bottle with holes in the bottom as a basket. I punched two holes near the top and attached string to serve as a handle.
If you use a clear container for the solution, you can see the action of the acid, removing the old finish and etching the metal. Knowing you, you won't leave it in too long. When you are satisfied, lift the basket, remove the part and wash in flowing water. The part is ready for the Parkerizing bath.
Using HCl as a stripper and prep bath seems to have worked. I don't have access to a sand blaster so this is a poor man's prep method. It is not as good but it works in a pinch.
02-15-2004, 03:38 AM
I think I will do the reciever and some of the other parts all at the same time so they will look the same
02-16-2004, 04:00 PM
You may want to try Naval Jelly, also from HD. This is phosphoric acid in gel form, and is intended to remove rust, which technically is another uncontrolled oxide finish, so I don't see why it would NOT remove the black oxide finish from the Hesse receivers... Naval Jelly will also remove gun blueing and strip the metal down.
Here's the sweet part - Naval Jelly, being a phosphate, will finish the metal with a relatively thin phosphate coating. My brother paints airplanes and uses this trick. He said this is also referred to as "pickling" the metal. I say this to say that depending on your goal, you may be able to skip the entire parkerizing. The term "parkerizing" is simply the name a company used to label their phosphate process. If you intend to paint over the phosphate finish, then the Naval Jelly trick may suit your purposes w/o needing to perform the entire parkerizing...
07-14-2004, 10:33 AM
My Vulcan receiver has a decent deep blue matte finish. I see no reason to replace it with something else. Different strokes for different folks I guess.
07-14-2004, 11:14 AM
If you have an auto body paint supply store near you then buying these acids and chemicals in large can be cheaper.
Metal prep is an acid that does the same thing as naval jelly, but you can get it to dilute as one sees fit.
One thisng I have seen is adding black RIT dye to the mix and making the park darker if I remember correctly. Please don't take my word for it and try it on scrap before you do a rifle.
This guy does some really neat stuff in his shop and a lot can be learned from him.