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Old 08-22-2008, 11:35 PM   #11 (permalink)
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see [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] another good source of info on the type 99. This article also explains the removal of the flower bu surrendering soldiers. Battlefield pickups or captures still have the flower.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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The May 20th issue of Shotgun News has a writeup on the type 38 Arisaka.
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Old 08-22-2008, 11:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Nice rifle. Do the numbers match? Look on the left side of the receiver, underside of bolt stem(last 3 digits) and other small parts of the bolt(last 3 digits) and also the bayo lug (last 3 digits). It's obviously good to have matching numbers. Generally what happened was any soldier was allowed a souvenir rifle but was required to throw the bolt into a container for the trip home so nobody was accidently shot on the long boring voyage (or so the story goes.) So when they got home they reached in the container and just grabbed a bolt. What do you think the odds of them finding their bolt by accident was? I would assume the ones that do match somehow managed to bypass this system.

It's not a "last ditch" rifle. Yours has the metal buttplate, plum shaped bolt handle, knurled safety knob and flip-up sight. Although missing the sight "wings". This was common as the Japs were starting to run short on basic materials (steel) and they started to cut corners. That is the most likely explanation for the dust cover missing on most rifles. Not the rattle. They did not rattle as the covers were hand fitted to each rifle.

Post a pic of the serial number with the Japanese markings or go here and figure it out and let us know.

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Old 08-23-2008, 12:06 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Now I'm going to give away my age, in the 60's ammo for the 7.7 jap was imposable to find
except by Norma so people who shot 7.7 resized British 303 ammo to make brass. I remember reading in American Rifleman people talking about how safe it was to convert an Arisaka to 30-06, Some said it was as strong as an Mauser others said no way. This was only done with 7.7 not 6.5 because of the base rim of the brass. Its like a 30-30.
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Old 08-23-2008, 12:19 AM   #15 (permalink)
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wizzegun, the numbers on the left of the reciever and the bayo lug do not match. They are close, but not close enough. I have not broke it down yet to check the rest. I havent figured out how to yet, and Im afraid since it has been passed to three memers of my family already(knowing how often they clean their guns), it probly hasnt been opened up in a while and is going to be locked up. I looked the numbers up from your link (cant get a good pic of the small numbers, crappy camera). Really cool info by the way. Its a type 99, Toyo Kogyo arsenal 1939-1945, and its a "30" series out of 45. looks like the serial number is 8315 out of 99,999.
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Old 08-23-2008, 07:55 AM   #16 (permalink)
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My daddy paid $10 for one of them.That was in 1960.He got it from another Marine at the reserve center. Had a gunsmith shorten the barrel and make it into a sportster for deer hunten.Then he found out what the ammo cost for it. Even back in the 70s, I think it was $20 for 20 rds. Pretty gun thou.
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Old 08-23-2008, 08:25 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Coils, I have a type 38 with the dust cover and it does rattle opened or closed, bad. Kyle's rifle does not look like a last ditch but a typical late war jap rifle. The last ditch rifles did not have a graduated sight, place for a cleaning rod, and a lot had smooth bore barrels. The really bad last ditch rifles didn't even have a safety on them.

Kyle, I see a block under the barrel band with a hole in it. The hole is meant for a wire monopod. I have only seen a 2 rifles with this on them still. There was a place where you could get reproduction ones. But I don't know if it's still around. But you can still find reproduction slings for them.
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Old 08-23-2008, 10:29 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Good to here you have very early war Series 30. Do you know how the rifle came into your family...did they personally bring it home? Here is another link you will want. Braddog posted it ealier. If you look on the right side, you will see disassembly intructions for the bolt and rifle. It's very easy and I would recommend ASAP since if, like you said, it hasn't been done in awhile. These are not only a piece of history but if a family member returned with this rifle, it's also a part of your family's history. Don't worry about it being "locked up." These are tough battle rifles and some argue they had the strongest actions of any WWII bolt rifle. One issue that you may come across is the screws holding the trigger guard/mag plate will probably be staked. This was to prevent the screws from falling out in the field (and keep the soldiers from messing with their rifles and losing parts.) If these are still staked they will be VERY tough to break free. I would recommend not trying unless you are good at gunsmithing. I would remove the bolt liberally shoot CLP into anywhere you can get top and bottom just to try and preserve it. The bores on Arisakas are not like regular bores you may have seen. They look worn...without defined lands and grooves but that is normal. They are chrome lined and should shine but may not since it has been neglected.

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Old 08-23-2008, 02:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I think my grandfather may have brought it, he was in the Navy around that time. Not 100% sure. I am going to talk to him today and see what he remembers about it. I'd like to restore it the best I can. It has some surface rust in a few places but looks pritty good over all. I'd also like to look into that sling and mono pod if they are still around. Thanks for the info evryone.
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Old 08-23-2008, 03:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Run a search on the net, there are some sites that carry the repro slings. A original sling is hard to come by. You could go the Ebay route, I have seen some on there for time to time. The bayonets with scabbard are fairly common, but the bayonet frogs are like the slings. One more question, when you look at the left side of the receiver, what do you see stamped there?? My type 38 rifle has what looks like 3 Cannon balls stacked up. If I remember correctly this stamp stood for the Kuru plant at Nagasaki (probably spelled those two names wrong) The plant was blown away when the A bomb hit. As far as the surface rust, take some 3in1 oil and put a couple of drops on the metal. Then use your finger and spread it all over and let it sit over night. Then take a rag and wipe off the excess. You'll be amazed at the difference. I do this on my jap and my WWII K98K Mauser, sometimes I just leave the oil on the rifles when i have them put up. If you start trying to mess with the rifles original finish, you'll take away it's cash value and it's historical value.
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