Hi all. I was not really interested in AR's till recently. I'd Like to build one as cheap as possible, from an 80% lower.
I have a Micro mill which I am currently scratch building a tube gun based on a Sten and M3 grese gun/ AK47 with a little Tec 9 thrown in for garnish
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So where would be the cheapest for the lower and the FCG. Also what are the differences on lowers? I mean like, a2 a4 and so on, does this mean any lower can go on any upper? Or that means they are not 100% compatible? I had the theory, build one as cheap as possible now so if laws change I can still dress it out later as it would be most likely still legal to change out accessories. And MABEY if I ever got the funds, purchase a 50 upper.
I have plenty mechanical ability, access to very elaborate machine shop, and a ton of experience with AK based firearms with a few builds under the belt. I basically just need the instructions to a build and a list of required tooling. I personally don't need the jig thing I have seen, as I am fairly decent at measuring, set up and layout, is it actually required?
I also hear of a rear tapped hole or something to that nature, what kind of tap is it? I am pretty sure I have one in every size imaginable, as for drills I have all letter, number and fraction up to 3/4, and access at school to any thing up to 3 inch and reamers to boot.
Sorry for so many questions, just like my AK obsession, there is so much info its hart to wade the shit. So to speak Thanks all, Mike
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Cheap bastard plus ghetto tools=quality AK build
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Amd, you of all people can definatly carve out your own lower! If you went with a 0% it would be CHEAP. The drill for the buffer is 1 1/8 and the tap is 1 3/16 x 16. The rest of the tools you probly already have. I don't think you'll save $ by building the upper, but some one may correct me on that one. You can get rifle kits for a good price. They come with all the parts but the lower.
Well the reason for the 80 over 0% is I want to do it on my micro mill, and borring the mag well and fitting would be tough for it. I also saw a upper 20'' with everything for 144.
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Cheap bastard plus ghetto tools=quality AK build
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An exellent tutorial from the 80%. His jig is top notch but you may not need it. Maybe a friends lower on loan and a set of drift punches would be fine. Or in your case a good set of blueprints..A member here has done them with nothing but hand tools! It is easier then the AK. IMO.[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]
The upper for 144 scares me, unless that's a used price. In the AR industry you get what you pay for. CNC gives a link to Kevin, his 80% might be a coulpe bucks more than some other venders but they are flawless and are of 7075-T6 alloy which if I understand correctly is the best available. He is also a pleasure to deal with.
Upper for $144? Mighty cheap, but if used and just needs barrel another $140 and you'd have it and still about 1/2 of what most are. Lots of sources for 80% lowers just shop around from what I've seen of your handiwork you won't have any probs.
From what I've seen you do amd, You'll have no problem finishing this task! Uppers are readily available! The lower is the key. If you have the ability to machine contours in aluminum, this is a near breeze! Anodizing is a concern if you want a Mil-Spec lower! Blueprints are easily obtained as well. In my perspective it was useful to have one on hand to study the fit and finish as well as possible machining processes capable of making a lower. Keep in mind that completed and stripped lowers (transferable without any parts) are available as inexpensive as $89!
Anodizing......Been there, Done that, got the chemical burns to prove it.
The reason I like the idea of a AR build is the fact the aluminum is very easy to machine on my mill. But for a finish I dont think I will/would anodize, rather a cyote tan and black set up with gunkote.
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Cheap bastard plus ghetto tools=quality AK build
PLEASE VOTE IN '08 FOR YOUR CONSTITUTIONAL RIGHTS!!!!!!
RON PAUL '08
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The anodizing adds surface hardness to the AL, hard coat anodizing is very similar to color anodizing, the temps are just changed a bit. You could probably skip the anodizing on a lower as there isn't much of a wear issue other than at the FCG pin holes. The upper would be the high wear area with the bolt carrier travel.