DIY: Stock/HG Stripping - Page 2

Glenn · 02-03-2008, 08:06 AM

Here's a question for you guys..... I am a gunsmith and have refinished many old military stocks and new factory (Bishop - Fajen, etc.) wood ones and have used the same ideas posted here. But, here's a project I am currently working on that raises a new question for me. I am building a Romy G kit, but don't want to strip the finish as I am attempting to keep it "as issued and used". The buttstock is very nice and has cool markings as does the forearm. The forearm has a very shiny finish while all other parts are rather dull. What would be the best way to easily clean the dull finished parts well enough to hold a shiny finish? And would 1 coat of spray True-oil or perhaps polyurethane be the best way to go? Thanks

Glenn · 02-03-2008, 10:27 AM

Got a really good answer to my question from tanvil on a seperate posting:
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Thanks.......it sounds like a good method to me, Glenn

**sjohnson** · 02-03-2008, 10:48 AM

Agree with tanvil. One of the great things about shellac is that each coat merges with previous coats. There's no layering, so you can freshen up a shellac finish without sanding.

Make sure to degrease/dewax before applying the shellac. Mineral spirits or TSP will do that job and won't touch the shellac.

Glenn · 02-03-2008, 11:54 AM

The only problem I have in this project about the degrease/dewax using Mineral spirits or TSP is that this stock has a really nice marking that I want to keep intact and it looks like its painted on with perhaps latex paint. Maybe I could carefully put a coat of shellac over the marking first to make sure it is "safe" then after this dries, do the entire stock degrease work. Thanks, Glenn

**sjohnson** · 02-03-2008, 02:55 PM

Use soap & water if mineral spirits or Trisodium Phosphate worries you. But neither will affect shellac, shellac dissolves in alcohol.

Glenn · 02-03-2008, 04:35 PM

My concern about using Mineral spirits or TSP is that it may remove the latex painted marking on the stock. Perhaps I can gently test the latex area and see what happens. Then take it from there.......thanks to all of you for great help, Glenn

**tanvil** · 02-03-2008, 08:20 PM

If it's the black stripe on the back of the stock you're referring to, it's under the shellac. At least it has been on all mine. Cleaning should have no effect on it. I have a non matching romy kit I can experiment with I don't have any mineral spirits but I'll dump laquer thinner on it and let ya know what happens.

**tanvil** · 02-03-2008, 08:59 PM

Cleaning: The laquer thinner took the top layer of dead finish off and completely restored the shine. I applied a small amount to a paper towel and worked it quickly, then dried it with a clean towel. You can see by the paper towel how quick and effective it worked. The brake parts cleaner did not restore the shine and only removed some of the crud and none of the dead finish, as you can see by the paper towel and the gloss level of the wood. I had to resize the pics to post them so I apoligize if they are not clear.

**sjohnson** · 02-03-2008, 09:06 PM

Lacquer thinner might attack shellac, but I doubt it. Be interesting to hear back from tanvil. I'm certain that mineral spirits don't.

I just did a test. All I have here is alcohol, turpentine and acetone. The shellac on a Romy lower HG here just shrugs off turp and acetone, even with brisk, forceful rubbing. The alcohol attacks it immediately.

**Bradrock** · 02-03-2008, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sjohnson

Use soap & water if mineral spirits or Trisodium Phosphate worries you. But neither will affect shellac, shellac dissolves in alcohol.

Yep; Furniture guys repair scratches in shellac finishes with a lint free cloth or 0000 steel wool damped with alcohol. You often don't need any more shellac.