DIY: Stock/HG Stripping

[tanvil]

Originally Posted by sjohnson

Lacquer thinner might attack shellac, but I doubt it. Be interesting to hear back from tanvil. I'm certain that mineral spirits don't.

I just did a test. All I have here is alcohol, turpentine and acetone. The shellac on a Romy lower HG here just shrugs off turp and acetone, even with brisk, forceful rubbing. The alcohol attacks it immediately.

SJ, I was out checking it while you were typing this. So far so good. I did not use much, nor did I let it sit. I worked it and removed it fast. I think letting it sit would attack the same as alcohol does. I just did the brake cleaner side with thinner. It did not come back as glossy. The brake cleaner seems to have killed the top layer. I will check it tommorrow for melting or cracking.

[sjohnson]

tanvil, my handguard is a spare that I want to strip, so I'm being aggressive.

I've been letting both turp and acetone sit on a piece of Romy handguard. Both evaporate so I'm using an eye dropper to replenish the spots. It's been almost 30 minutes and the shellac under each spot is still hard, clear and shiny.

I quit

[tanvil]

Bug poop! That's what it's made of. Well not actually poop, but some type of secretion.

[Glenn]

It's the 18/9 painted on (believe it's latex paint) that I want to preserve. I still am thinking about gently testing cleaning the painted section with just some soap and water; let it dry and then cover just that 18/9 with the Bulls Eye. When its dry, will do the mineral spirts cleaning on entire stock and then hit it with Bulls Eye all over. I just want to try and keep the 18/9 marking in place......any idea what it stands for? Thanks, Glenn

[sjohnson]

Rack number would be my guess. Shellac is used as a sealer for all kinds of paint, to stop bleed-through and to kill mildew staining. I'd think a coat of shellac over that number would work well.

Row 18, Rifle 9?

[tanvil]

I would go with rack ID# too. I have an old M14 stock with the #19 hand painted on it. The difference is that its on the bottom near the sling swivel, not the side. Bullseye should protect it, and seal it as well. Pretty cool though, I haven't seen one of those yet.

[mauser1959]

I know that for cleaning all of my old rifles I always use Kleen Kutt Laquer thinner from wal mart for about $8 per gallon. And if I wanted to redo the wood more I would follow with wood bleach aka oxalic acid (ace will have it as wood bleach). However I have never wanted to save any paint like your wanting too, that would be a whole new challenge in and of itself. This next year I am going to make a PVC bomb to use gasoline on some old very soaked Mosin Nagants and maybe even some Mausers , cosmoline can be a real bastard even after getting all the top finish off of them. Unleaded gasoline should remove cosmoline , but it would need to soak for several days undisturbed and then be allowed to air out for at least as long. My favorite 91-30 has a been stripped and still bleeds cosmoline after two years, but this summer I intend to try to end that situation.

[tanvil]

Would kerosine work on wood?

[Glenn]

Row 18, Rifle 9 - thanks......makes sense. I too have another rifle with a number 53 painted on the bottom near the sling swivel, an M1 Garand. I thought it might be kind of cool to try and keep the markings in place. While you guys are so willing to help, I also have a Romanian forearm which has a really interesting stamping. The stamping was done after the final finish was applied and it's a triangle (very similar to the Romanian triangle proof stamping found on their trunnions) and inside the triange are the letters / number ?R 2 M?. Any ideas as to what I have here? Image shows it the best I can do......really hard to get macro pics with a digital........anyway, Thanks, Glenn

[sjohnson]

It actually says "2 AM" or, last call at the bar. Buy now or forgo the pleasure. This was a reminder to Romanian soldiers to buy their last round before the bar closed.

Sorry, couldn't resist. What it really means I haven't a clue.