I built one of these this weekend. Piece of cake!
I didnt however get the flat bent. I started hammering on it and figured the people in my aprtment complex wouldnt care too much for it.
Sorry to resurrect an old topic, but I'm about to try this method and just would like a little clarification before I start beating on stuff. So,
1) if I understand this right, there is bar sandwiched on the top and bottom of the flat, correct?
2) To bend the sides, you position the sandwiched flat over the angle pieces, and hammer the exposed bar down into the angle brackets. How do you keep the flat stable during the first few hits?
3) I'm really unclear on the top rails. how do you keep the flat bars near the top? Is it just held in by the tension of the angle pieces? Also, where do you hammer on this (I assume you don't hammer the flat)?
Again, sorry for all the probably very stupid and obvious questions, but I'm having a hard time wrapping my brain stem around some of this. Thanks a heap!!
2) the bottom part of the sandwich would be inbetween the angle brackets
3) i think what he did for the top rails was flip the angle bars over, move the bar stock up to the top of the flat and lock it in a vise, then hammer the rails over
Great! Thanks!
The only part I'm worried about (in part 2) is not getting the flat to go inside the angle parts straight. I know it's only a 1mm gap on each side, but it still bugs me.
I wonder if getting a few more bolts and expanding the two bar stocks APART and then hammering the rails over would work. Hmmmm... May have to try that. That way, you could match the angle of the top of the receiver. (I realize the preceeding sentence probably made zero sense. I'll post a pic if it works.)
Grasshopper, Thanks for sharing this idea:cheers: , Planning to make one soon - However, I would also like a little more detailed info on how you bent the top rails.... Pics would be appreciated.
Grasshopper, Thanks for sharing this idea:cheers: , Planning to make one soon - However, I would also like a little more detailed info on how you bent the top rails.... Pics would be appreciated.
Well, the angles are held together by screws(they are part of the outer frame), I did not put them in the pictures. The vise just put more tension on the bars.
GreatMoose said:
So the bars are held in between the sides of the receiver merely by the tension of the vise? That'll work. Thanks!
A suggestion for doing the top rails: cut an oak or maple wedge to match the slope of the top rails and use it to back-up the bar stock you'll be folding the top rail over. You can slide the wege right or left to adjust the height, and shim one end or the other to get the angle perfect. It'll also help to keep the metal bar from dropping into the receiver while you're hammering. Worked very well for me, and I didn't need three hands to get it aligned and clamped in the vise.
how about putting a bolt at each end, or threw existing holes, of the bar to touch the bottom of the receiver to adjust the height for bending the top rails ?
I wonder if you could put a bar under the jig , say under the trigger hole, and the front part of the mag opening, run a bolt thru the holes to either go thru the bars, or thread them and use them to pull the flat down into the jig, at the very least it would put pressure on the flat so it would stay centered starting into the bending movement ?
This is the first jig that I have understood so I will have to make one----that means another kit, will it ever stop??????????????????
My friend beefed up the jig using 3" angle and made it longer so we could add a bolt past the front and back of the 1/4 inch bar stock to give more support to the front and rear of the flat. He also made a jig of angle iron to bend the rails first. Really added alot of stability during the bending process. He has a press and that helped alot! We did 3 last night that came out excellent. :cheers:
has anyone made a bending jig using the above method?
the reason i ask is because I used 4" x 3/8" angle iron (big fu#kin' stuff) in only supported it at the ends with (3) - 3/8" bolts on each side.
My first attempt at bending a flat showed evidence of the jig bowing in the middle causing the middle of the receiver to be slightly wider than the front and back closest to the bolts.
I have since added support 3/8" bolts throughout the jig (slightly below where the male die bottoms out) and have had perfect bends.
Just wondering if anyone is noticing bowing with thinner, smaller angle iron.
I'm in the process of making one of these jigs - when I'm finished, I'll let you know. I'm concidering making some triangular shaped peices and having them welded in the middle where you described the problem with bowing. Also, I believe that the original called for using 1/4" angle - the extra thicknes might make a diference. BTW, I like the 'Busa signature pic - I have a '01 with a little work done to it. Great minds think alike:thumbup1: .
Pit Bull
Caspian45 said:
has anyone made a bending jig using the above method?
the reason i ask is because I used 4" x 3/8" angle iron (big fu#kin' stuff) in only supported it at the ends with (3) - 3/8" bolts on each side.
My first attempt at bending a flat showed evidence of the jig bowing in the middle causing the middle of the receiver to be slightly wider than the front and back closest to the bolts.
I have since added support 3/8" bolts throughout the jig (slightly below where the male die bottoms out) and have had perfect bends.
Just wondering if anyone is noticing bowing with thinner, smaller angle iron.
Also, I believe that the original called for using 1/4" angle - the extra thicknes might make a diference. BTW, I like the 'Busa signature pic - I have a '01 with a little work done to it. Great minds think alike:thumbup1: .
Pit Bull
I used 3/8 which is thicker than the plan on page one (1/4). That's why i had concerns of bowing. my stupid jig weighs 25-30 lbs. it's solid, but i can't sell it b/c i couldn't afford to ship the damn thing.
I'll have to come clean. I'm a wannabe busa owner. i have a Bandit 1200 but want to step up to a busa once i get some bills paid off.
o.k., looking at the plan on page 1 and having build myu own jig i would suggest adding 3 cross support throughout the length of the jig along the bottom.
you could use 1/4" x 1" flat stock which is cheap and 6 bolts. all in all, it would add another $5 to the cost of the jig. it would also guarentee that when you come down with 12 tons of pressure the jig won't bow out.
my $0.02
caspian
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