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Cetme Build Tutorial

78K views 54 replies 26 participants last post by  moleman 
#1 ·
Well I started this over at militaryfirearm.com but I figured I'd post it here since there are not too many members there yet. Its not done yet but it should give people a good start on their cheap CFS cetme kits.

I started out by ordering my Cetme kit from Centerfiresystems for the great price of $100. I had heard that some of the kits were in rough shape but mine turned out to be quite nice. It had a cracked pistol grip but the internals showed very little wear and of course the barrel is new. Below is a picture of my kit.

I started my build by disassembling everything, mainly to familiarize myself with the functions of the parts and try to get a good grasp of how they all fit together. I removed the selector lever, then pulled out the FCG box. The ejector spring was removed next, followed by the ejector pivot pin, and then the ejector. I then drove out the pins holding in the rest of the FCG, and was left with the empty box. I stored these parts with exception to the ones not needed(shown below) in a bag and made sure I wouldn't lose them.

Next I went on to press out the pin which holds in the charging lever, this is done by bringing it back to the charged position and lining it up with the holes on top and bottom, it pressed out very easily, could be done with a punch and hammer too. Be careful not to loose the spring.

I was now ready to remove the trunnion and cocking tube. This was done by grinding away all the spot welds. Most of the spot welds are easily identified by depressions in the metal but there are 3 or so(one on top of the cocking tube, and two on the trunnion) which are only seen by discoloration in the finish, they appear darker. The cocking tube can be separated from the rest of the receiver scrap by following the seam between the upper(smaller) and lower(larger) "tubes" of the receiver. Once they are separated they can be tackled one at a time. Once, you have ground the welds flush, you can peel away the receiver scrap from the cocking tube. Be careful not to deform or removed metal from the cocking tube sleeve. Next peel the receiver away from the trunnion, I found the trunnion to be quite easy since you are less worried about damaging it. Pictures of these parts are found below.
 

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#33 ·
vz58 said:
I just bent my flat this afternoon, super easy! 3/4" rod drilled and bolted to a piece of plywood. I used a couple of 1/4" steel scrap as a pry bar, about 20 min of work including some tweeking befor eI spot welded it.
Does your bolt carrier and cocking tube fit in the receiver?
 
#36 ·
seems like the thread stalled so here are 2 pictures of what your trigger parts should look like before reassembly




Cocking tube and trunnion welded in


remember the headspacing is done with feeler guages so the gap between bolt head and bolt head carrier are between.004-.020

if you use a cast receiver you will need to polish the inside of the cocking tube and the trunion hole for them to fit

I chose grip, stock, mags, receiver(CIA cast, roll your own wasn't available yet) and removed the barrel threads and crowned to come in under the parts count because at the time it was all I could get.

when all was said and done this is what I got



This is thanks to Diablo and rusty pirate from the now defunct cetmerifles.com for all of their help.
 
#41 ·
Thanks, let's keep this alive!

This has been a great build tutorial so far! Let's keep it going by adding our own photos of our build progress! Here are some shots of the mandrel and press tools I made to shape my final receivers for the collapsing stock.



This is the internal mandrel test fit into my CETME stub.



And this is the mandrel pressed into the welded receiver and showing the external dies all in my shop press.

I did unfortunately cut the slots for the rails .015 too deep on each side and had to run brass shim stock inside each cut out, but so far, it is working great!

Not shown is an external die that fits in my bench vice. It fits the shape on the outside of the receiver between the cocking tube and the main body, about where a Stanang scope mount claw would grab. This shapes the whole receiver for the bolt.

The bolt drops through the receiver with no effort.

efxguy
 
#43 ·
pupwag just sent me some pics of his rig to bend the flats. I hope I can get him up here so I can try it out!
 
#44 ·
several jigs floating around out there and lots of new ideas like this one above and the one that Pat mentioned too.

ive used MOJOHONA's jig which is excellent

ive used Jestism's which is very good and easy to use.

and ive bent them with just a piece of 3/4" rod and a benchtop... the NITEGUNNER method.

they all work just fine. its just about the final massaging after your done.

sdk
 
#46 ·
i really like your approach to this. its not overly complicated and doesnt leave a lot of things to get messed up.

nicely done.
 
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