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9mm AK my way

12K views 35 replies 18 participants last post by  soakandquench 
#1 ·
Started on this project back in December and it is just now nearing completion. I am a slow worker, what can I say...

Started with an AK flat and 2xtm magwell.


FUBAR'd the angle of the magwell so I had to start over, good thing I have more flats and ordered 2 magwells. I am using a 16" uzi barrel that was turned and sleeved for me by a member of another site. Add a romi parts kit, phantom flash hider and saiga rifle handguard and this is what you get.


I was originally planning on using a 6 pos. adjustable AR stock but wasnt really diggin the look, so I changed my mind and went with a plain ol' A2 stock instead. I made a sort of "pistol" trunnion for the rear and was trying to figure out where I could find a steel AR recoil buffer tube when it hit me, its just a tub with a threaded hole at the end and I dont need the threads on the open end anyway so I went on the hunt for a piece of ~1.1" OD tube. I found it in an old Roadmaster bicycle frame I fished out of a trash pile awhile back.


Eyeballed 'er straight and welded 'er up.


Then after fiddling around with a CETME parts kit I decided a non-recip cocking handle would be the cats ass since this is a recoil-operated build. Step 1: Aquire G3 cocking tube and trunnion from RobertRTG (good people there BTW!)
Step2: Cut up G3 tube to remove area needed.


Step 3: Section G3 tube and weld AK RSB flange to end to achieve same OAL as AK gas tube.


I should note here that I originally was going to permanently weld the small piece of rail to the gas block to retain the option of running AR BUIS's but decided it looked retarded so I removed it and will be installing H&K open sights in addition to the rail on the RSB.

Next, mock up to test fit and function.


Luckily the G3 parts fit EXTREMELY well with the AK parts. The AK gas piston head fits PERFECTLY into the rear of the charging handle piece and once the outside of the piston and inside of the handle piece were beveled they work very well together. I am a little hessitant to drill and pin the gasblock because of the increase in bore diameter, I'm not sure how far I can go before getting into the bore. For this reason, I installed a set screw for now and it seems to be holding. If it retains its position after test firing, I will probably leave it there and maybe JB weld it in place. The angle of the gas block greatly affects the smoothness of the action but with it tweeked just right it works prety well. A little rough, but I expect it to smooth out with use.
 
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#28 ·
You starting to get confusing. Are you going to use a G3/CETME style cocker?
If your going to do this style cocker, think it out a little simpler.
You got a lathe. Can you cut threads?
Since your making it blow back, make an AK piston but instead of having the piston head at the end move it back on the shaft, the OAL will be the same yet so the tip will go into the gas block. This bulge on the shaft is what the cocking handle will push against to push the bolt back to cock it and the handle will stay front while firing.
The G3/CETME cocking handle is on a tube like thing, this will ride inside the gas tube (that you make) and the piston rod will move inside this tube thing on the cocking handle.
If your not using the G3 handle, I just typed all this for nothing :D
 
#29 ·
If your not using the G3 handle, I just typed all this for nothing :D
Why should you be the only one? <grin>

This is for my Beowulf build. I don't know if I'll be using a G3 handle; the bits are cheap enough I'll get some next time I order from Sarco or Numrich. If I like the look I'll use them, otherwise I'll fab something from scratch.
 
#31 ·
I'm back. I am the OP but lost my original login info so I just made a new SN. The cocking tube assembly is not complicated at all. The G3 tube insert and lever are unmodified and the shortened AK piston has an angle ground into the leading edge to ensure it doesnt jam on the back of the insert. This thing kinda works now. It will feed and chamber individual rounds but not while firing. I think it needs to have a ramp cut into the bottom of the chamber like a semi-auto pistol. The chamber is currently fully supported so a little bit of a radius will probably be ok. I only test fire it at my ranch, (which is 5 hours away) so progress between test fires and modifications has been SLOW. Going on three years slow... If you want pics of anything specific, let me know.
 
#32 ·
I'm back. I am the OP
It's about time. We were about to send out the posse!

The G3 tube insert and lever are unmodified and the shortened AK piston has an angle ground into the leading edge to ensure it doesnt jam on the back of the insert.
Do you have a good picture of how all those parts line up? I've never found any good pictures of the G3 bits.

I only test fire it at my ranch, (which is 5 hours away.
I feel your pain...
 
#36 ·
wow. i admit this is giving me some really good ideas.

one is a somewhat smaller diameter gas piston rod (without the piston head). why? so a sleeve can be fitted into the gas tube. between the sleeve and gas tube would be a spring so the non reciprocating handle could return to the ready position. i know it sounds complicated right?
 
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